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Old 10-29-2014, 02:31 PM   #29
Junkman2008
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True, but in this discussion it is important to be definitive in the name of accuracy.
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Old 10-29-2014, 05:26 PM   #30
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Ok, back on topic here. I did watch the video more than once, I took notes, I even had the tablet in the garage with me. Guess I'm a slow learner. :( Now where to start to try to fix my mess I created. M105 with orange pad?
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Old 10-29-2014, 06:32 PM   #31
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Ok, back on topic here. I did watch the video more than once, I took notes, I even had the tablet in the garage with me. Guess I'm a slow learner. :( Now where to start to try to fix my mess I created. M105 with orange pad?
I wouldn't fault you for doing what you did. (Can't expect a beginner to know every little detail to a trade and fault them for making a mistake.) Live and learn, good thing is you are able to fix it.

Perform a test spot with the M205 and white pad to see how that comes out. If it corrects to your expectations then hit the whole car. If it doesn't then go up to the M105 and orange pad.

Major lesson learned here is always perform a test spot. If you need more help or questions post up, lots of us here willing to take the time to make sure you are getting it done right.
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:05 PM   #32
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I don't blame anybody but me either. It all looks so easy on video and reading about it.
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Old 11-01-2014, 06:57 PM   #33
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It was a brand new pad, I just bought all this stuff this week. I really think I was letting it heat up and dry out. I should sneak over and try it on the neighbors beater next time!!
If any of your neighbors have an old beater, maybe talk to them and offer to detail it for free. Just make it clear that it's a learning experience for you and to not be surprised if things don't come out perfect. If their car is in average or worse shape, I'm sure it will come out looking better.
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Old 11-02-2014, 04:41 PM   #34
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Well I am beyond frustrated and have given up for now. I think it is time in the spring to find a pro in the southwest suburbs to fix this.

I reclayed, used 205 with the white pad and it is still a mess. I'm wondering if the body shop that painted the stripes back in 2009 used a soft clear coat. The spots I have done on one of the rear quarters look pretty good, but it is extremely hard to see the swirls in the orange, while in the black they leap out at you under the LED flashlight.

A couple of pics after the 205 today.
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Old 11-02-2014, 05:48 PM   #35
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Well I am beyond frustrated and have given up for now. I think it is time in the spring to find a pro in the southwest suburbs to fix this.

I reclayed, used 205 with the white pad and it is still a mess. I'm wondering if the body shop that painted the stripes back in 2009 used a soft clear coat. The spots I have done on one of the rear quarters look pretty good, but it is extremely hard to see the swirls in the orange, while in the black they leap out at you under the LED flashlight.

A couple of pics after the 205 today.
Black just shows swirls more than any other color.

Something must be off, arm speed, product amount, pattern, etc.

Did you see any correction with the 205? Same? Worse?
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:15 PM   #36
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Well I am beyond frustrated and have given up for now. I think it is time in the spring to find a pro in the southwest suburbs to fix this.

I reclayed, used 205 with the white pad and it is still a mess. I'm wondering if the body shop that painted the stripes back in 2009 used a soft clear coat. The spots I have done on one of the rear quarters look pretty good, but it is extremely hard to see the swirls in the orange, while in the black they leap out at you under the LED flashlight.

A couple of pics after the 205 today.
You're clearly doing something wrong. The question is what?

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Old 11-02-2014, 07:13 PM   #37
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It is better than it was. I am using the PC on speed 5.
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Old 11-02-2014, 07:35 PM   #38
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It looks to me judging by the length of the swirl arch, that this is not caused by the polishing. Looks more like poor washing technique and dirty water. It seems to match swirling caused by arm movement (washing in arch's or circular movement) with poor products, and or dirty products.

Get some of this and give it another shot.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Menze...int_p_822.html
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Old 11-02-2014, 07:41 PM   #39
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It is better than it was. I am using the PC on speed 5.
And you're using M205. That is a LIGHT polish, obviously NOT capable of getting rid of the damage that you are dealing with. Are you sure that you paid attention throughout my videos? First you used M101, which was overkill for what damage you have and then you used M205 before you had removed all of the damage, something of which I explained NOT to do in my videos. I explain in detail the process and pitfalls that you will run into and how to eliminate them. Thousands of people have had success with what they learned from my videos and a majority of them had never used a buffer before.

How about this. Make a video of you doing ONE PASS on a section of your paint. Show EVERYTHING to the screen, just as I do in my videos so that I can see what you are using. EVERYTHING. Let me see what you are doing and I will immediately know if you actually watched my videos and are doing exactly what I show in my videos. I can look at a person doing one pass and tell what their problem is.
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Old 11-02-2014, 07:47 PM   #40
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And you're using M205. That is a LIGHT polish, obviously NOT capable of getting rid of the damage that you are dealing with. Are you sure that you paid attention throughout my videos? First you used M101, which was overkill for what damage you have and then you used M205 before you had removed all of the damage, something of which I explained NOT to do in my videos. I explain in detail the process and pitfalls that you will run into and how to eliminate them. Thousands of people have had success with what they learned from my videos and a majority of them had never used a buffer before.

How about this. Make a video of you doing ONE PASS on a section of your paint. Show EVERYTHING to the screen, just as I do in my videos so that I can see what you are using. EVERYTHING. Let me see what you are doing and I will immediately know if you actually watched my videos and are doing exactly what I show in my videos. I can look at a person doing one pass and tell what their problem is.
Now your pissing me off. Why in the hell would I lie and say I watched your videos if I had not. Give me a damn break. Yes I know it is my fault, but I sure as hell am not lying about watching your videos. I'm done here.
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Old 11-02-2014, 07:51 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Nor Cal ZL1 View Post
It looks to me judging by the length of the swirl arch, that this is not caused by the polishing. Looks more like poor washing technique and dirty water. It seems to match swirling caused by arm movement (washing in arch's or circular movement) with poor products, and or dirty products.

Get some of this and give it another shot.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Menze...int_p_822.html
Two things. One, he doesn't need a different product, what he has is MORE than capable of doing the job. I have a boatload of different products in my garage and they ALL do the same exact thing.







Two, swirl makes are NOT circular scratches. The just appear to be circular because every tiny scratch is going in every possible direction of a sphere. The misconception that washing in a circular motion causes circular scratches is wrong because I wash in a circular motion. What cause swirls is improper washing, no matter what direction you go in.

Here's a picture of swirls as most people see them.




Here are those same swirls as I see them. NOTICE that every line is straight.

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Old 11-02-2014, 07:57 PM   #42
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Now your pissing me off. Why in the hell would I lie and say I watched your videos if I had not. Give me a damn break. Yes I know it is my fault, but I sure as hell am not lying about watching your videos. I'm done here.
I am only trying to help but I will let you deal with it your way now.
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