QUICRNU Build -LSA BTR YANK Supercars etc...

[Pro Stock John]

Sounds like a strong combo. Did you get a trans cooler?

[John_C]

Nice work!

[QUICRNU]

Originally Posted by John_C

Nice work!

Thanks Man.......still alot more to do!

[QUICRNU]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Sounds like a strong combo. Did you get a trans cooler?

Yes I have a Trans cooler otw rated at 30,000 GVW I believe.


The thread is a tad bit behind from real time.......l will update soon.

[QUICRNU]

I decided I wanted to get the transmission back on while the engine was as light as possible....also while it was beyond easy to get to the bellhousing bolts. It took a LONG time to fill the converter with Fluid.. fill a little then move converter around while it slowly burped in, but alas I got the full 1 quart in... I got kinda weirded with just these 3 bolts connecting the converter, so I over did it on the threadlocker! lol

Went on to clean the cylinders and head surfaces 2 more times... meaning I brought a cylinder to top dead center, used Shop vac and compressed air to ensure nothing was hiding on top of the rings... I got significant gunk outta there so be sure to blow then shop vac the circumference of the piston while at TDC ... I did it twice to be sure. Also I cleaned and prepped all cylinder walls while pistons were at BDC.

Lifters were soaking for a while... I liked how easy they installed.

Also checked spark plug mounting depth and prepped ARP Head bolts with Torque Lube.

[QUICRNU]

Got the heads on... wiped them all down etc...., not everything I did is pictured, but thought these might be some good pics. Obviously, this was fun! Be sure to have the flat side down and tapered side up of the ARP Head Bolt washers. That picture shows the side that should be towards the Heads/Engine.

I go the timing chain cover on.... used GM RTV in the corners and I also put a thin coat across the oil pan gasket since I did not replace it.




















Attachment 857201

[QUICRNU]

Starting to get excited

[QUICRNU]

I hate all the wires that come across the front of the engine, I did the clean up mod on my buddies N/A 2010 SS..... so this was just the break I was looking for to start rebuilding my wiring harness.... I do not plan to detail every step, but in essence, I ran everything except the Cam sensor Water Temp MAF, ALT wires and Driver side Knock sensor wires across the firewall. Those other items are contained in their separate looms and do not really interfere.

This was alot of blueprinting and alot of soldering.... well worth it to have fuel injector harness etc off the valve covers.... it is cluttered anyways..... it is pretty in the NA setup.



Always label everything.... everywhere, everytime.....although it is pretty simple once you do it a few times. Injector and coil pack wiring are the most important.

Gave a sample Solder too

[QUICRNU]

More wiring harness stuff, this takes a decent amount of time when the car is all apart because I have to go back and mach stuff up to get the wiring length right.... but it was good to get it done, and really frees up some clutter IMO......and kept me distracted while doing it.

[MudderFinger]

Great Thread you started, looks like you will be ready to race soon.

[QUICRNU]

Originally Posted by MudderFinger

Great Thread you started, looks like you will be ready to race soon.

Thanks Mud, I am looking forward to getting her on the road, honestly I wouldn't have driven it much in a normal winter, but we have had 4 or 5 days in the 70s... I am seeing Hot Rods and Bikes out all over the place and I am wanting to get her on the road for sure!

Yes, some racing will be fun too, but mostly just Test and Tune.

Let me know if you are ever headed to VMP or RIC Drag.....

[QUICRNU]

I had the valve covers on to keep it clean, but I decided it was time to get the push rods and rockers on, which means setting the lifter pre-load.

I ordered all my valve train parts months in advance, I spoke with the BTR tech and we discussed my mods, they recommended the 7.400 Pushrods so I bought them in my package.

Once installed, I was only able to get .75 or 3/4 of a turn from 0 Lash to 22/ft-lbs on the rocker bolts.

.047 Run out on the bolt * .75 = .03525 pre-load

The Ideal Pre-load is debated but with LS7 lifters the consensus I saw was between .080 and .100.....some were even higher than .100. I will not claim to know what is best and I am sure it is based on your goal and build. I decided to go for around .080 pre-load based on Pushrod size choices and I am shifting at around 6200 rpm with the 6L80.... so .080 seemed right for me.

I called BTR.... they were awesome, we talked through what I had measured, 3 different cylinders all at TDC when measuring... I used the BTR 7.400 pushrod to measure with lubed ends... same results on all 3, so they agreed, and they had no issue swapping out my pushrods even though the exchange policy states 90 days and this was day 96!! I bought the 7.450 so they could ship immediately, and I sent mine back with a Return Number and Ashley refunded the original ones within 1 day of return. Brian Tooley Racing has been awesome to work with for sure. Thank You!

So, to follow the math...... 7.450 New - 7.400 Orig = .050 difference

.03525 observed preload with 7.400 + .050 difference = .08525 Preload

AKA approximately 1 3/4 turns

1.75 * .047 = .08225 ................ (The slight difference is I was not using a torque angle gauge to measure my turns but was just going 1/4 at a time.....Accurate enough!

So I am very happy with how my preload turned out now, my rocker contact patch was right in the middle etc...

[QUICRNU]

Injector Time.....

[John_C]

Can't wait to see the dyno #'s and 1/4 mile times!

I have a feeling if your setup is similar to this, you'll be in a 10sec car at 600hp.

http://streetntrack.net/topic/2232-w...&comment=55404

620 rwhp and 10.5's in the 1/4 in 12lbs in A near 4600lb Caddy.

http://streetntrack.net/topic/2232-w...&comment=56282

https://youtu.be/gKQCvKQij7g