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Old 10-03-2019, 09:45 AM   #1
eLeSthree
 
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Best 3 modifications to rear, to gain traction?

It's time to work on the rear. Which are the most helpful modifications for straight-line traction? I'm currently looking at:

BMR Rear craddle bushings, Pro. Poly
BMR Rear toe rods. Poly (do I need adjustable?) I'm not lowered..
BMR Rear Trailing Arms Poly
BMR Rear trailing arm bushings poly
BMR Extreme Anti-Roll bar

I had solid rear bushings in my Fox-Body and don't want that for this car. Going with poly to hopefully keep it street-able.

If you couldn't afford them all at once, which would you buy first?
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:16 AM   #2
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Go solid on the cradle bushings I daily mine and don't even realize their there, car accelerates much better with no wind up of the cradle and is more planted.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:08 AM   #3
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I run the BMR poly bushings and I like them. Lots of guys are running the solid bushings with good reviews. Either one will be an improvement.

If you do the toe rods at the same time you do cradle bushings you will save yourself a small amount of work. The cradle has to be lowered a little bit to get to the inboard mounting bolt out of the driver side toe rod. It's really not a big deal, but I thought I would throw that out there.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:11 AM   #4
VR Baron
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I have all bmr on my car. Cradle, trailing arms, toe rods, upper rear control arm poly bushings, all other bushings are poly as you listed. I am lowered on Ridetechs 1” and don’t need adjustable arms. I don’t drag race but I have no wheel hop in off the line starts in autocross or on street. More of traction limited now and how much I can rev on launch without spinning or laying rubber down before hooking up.

And the ride wasn’t hurt at all or very little, a little more solid over bumps. You will get some of that feel if you go to stiff on the rear swaybar
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:47 AM   #5
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#1 thing is cradle bushings - dramatic difference.
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Old 10-05-2019, 10:22 AM   #6
eLeSthree
 
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Thank you guys. I'm def gonna start with the cradle bushings. I'm gonna hold off on toe rods and trailing arms, until I can swing the adjustable ones. The tubular style looks way more rigid and its always a good idea to have adjustability.

As far as that drivers side toe rod bolt, I heard you could remove the trailing arm (or was it control arm?) from the spindle side, to create enough movement to get the toe rod bolt out.
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Old 10-17-2019, 05:29 AM   #7
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Finally got the cradle bushings installed. What a bitch. I didn't realize how massive these bushings were until I held them. I beveled the edge of the pin to help it slide into the bushing. Tight fit.

The cradle bushings alone made a huge difference! Under power, the rear was twisting causing the car to steer itself towards the curb. Now with the new bmr bushings, it just goes straight. Still spins some, but it goes straight. Money well spent.

Moving onto toe rods and trailing arms. Trying to decide if I should spend the extra cash on the adjustable arms/rods or not. I've never been to the drag strip, so I doubt I will need the ability to adjust the toe...

Anyone see a reason I need the adjustable stuff?
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Old 10-17-2019, 08:49 AM   #8
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For me, I'm ok with the toe-rod being fixed. It's still adjustable for general alignment purposes, just not quick adjust for on/off track tweaking. I am curious to see what you experience with the toe rod and trailing arm changes, having done the cradle first. I'm on the fence for a next mod, and I'm considering toe/trailing arm. I really want to get as much slop out of the driveline as possible, I'm just not entirely sure it's there. I'm suspicious of my trans mount, I believe the 10-11 is a softer part than 12+. Might be upgrade time.
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eLeSthree View Post
Finally got the cradle bushings installed. What a bitch. I didn't realize how massive these bushings were until I held them. I beveled the edge of the pin to help it slide into the bushing. Tight fit.

The cradle bushings alone made a huge difference! Under power, the rear was twisting causing the car to steer itself towards the curb. Now with the new bmr bushings, it just goes straight. Still spins some, but it goes straight. Money well spent.

Moving onto toe rods and trailing arms. Trying to decide if I should spend the extra cash on the adjustable arms/rods or not. I've never been to the drag strip, so I doubt I will need the ability to adjust the toe...

Anyone see a reason I need the adjustable stuff?
I have the non adjustables for both...but the 15" conversion kits all seem to utilize the adjustables because of their tubular shape, possibly for more wheel clearance. When I do my 15" conversion from Carlyle, looks like some BMR nonadjustable TAs and toe rods will find a new home

I will add, for adjustability purposes, I am not lowered but with my camber bolts I can get my rear camber to 0, for my drag alignment just fine
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Old 10-17-2019, 01:02 PM   #10
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I'm running adjustables on my but I do track my car and the alignment shop really likes them for the ease and amount of adjustment they provide.
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Old 10-17-2019, 02:27 PM   #11
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What about diff. bushings to stabilize the punkin? (And yes, I meant to say punkin)
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Old 10-17-2019, 07:53 PM   #12
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big difference going to solid cradle bushings. car plants it better. I didnt notice any introduced NVH other than when i go over a bump, i can feel it more
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:20 AM   #13
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I installed the Hotchkis 32mm rear sway bar on mine on the stiffest setting. Felt like I took out 300 lbs from the backend/trunk and the car accelerates much better out of the hole. Best mod I did to date.
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:12 AM   #14
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^yup sway bars make a huge difference, running Pedders 27mm front and 32mm rears and the car is planted.
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