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Old 10-16-2019, 11:28 AM   #1
DIYKB
 
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13 zl1 looking to add power

I'm sure there's a thread on here somewhere about this. Bought it used at 20,000 miles. I'm the third owner so I'm not sure about mods but it appears stock other than rotofab CAI and borla atak exhaust. What's the cheapest and most reliable (safe) way to make about 100-150 WHP? Took to a local speed shop (I've heard mixed reviews on this particular shop) and he basically said that it needed porting, lingenfelter pulleys, fuel, headers, and tune. Said it would be 700+ and about $6,000. Dont really know anything about these LSA's but I'm not trying to get crazy with the car. Just pep it up. I want to be able to run pump gas and I want it to be reliable. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 10-16-2019, 03:09 PM   #2
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I would say upper/lower, headers, injectors, and a tune and you would be there.
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Old 10-16-2019, 07:39 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by jvervoren View Post
I would say upper/lower, headers, injectors, and a tune and you would be there.

You don't need the upper, you can get those numbers with 18% lower, Headers, 1000 + injectors, some sort of fuel pressure assistance i.e (BAP) or alternate pump, CAI, good tune. Suggest Jannety JRE(125 package). You mention 700 plus that would be crank not RWHP, you will be about 630RWHP, and can run on 93.
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Old 10-17-2019, 11:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYKB View Post
I'm sure there's a thread on here somewhere about this. Bought it used at 20,000 miles. I'm the third owner so I'm not sure about mods but it appears stock other than rotofab CAI and borla atak exhaust. What's the cheapest and most reliable (safe) way to make about 100-150 WHP? Took to a local speed shop (I've heard mixed reviews on this particular shop) and he basically said that it needed porting, lingenfelter pulleys, fuel, headers, and tune. Said it would be 700+ and about $6,000. Dont really know anything about these LSA's but I'm not trying to get crazy with the car. Just pep it up. I want to be able to run pump gas and I want it to be reliable. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Hello and welcome to the club, May I recommend our JRE 125 RWHP upgrade package that I ran on my personal car for 5 years. It is 100% reliable solid power 700 at the crank.

No removal of the blower no porting no nonsense just solid reliable power

These systems are DIY and include custom tuning for plug and play performance

https://jannettyracing.com/collectio...015-camaro-zl1
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Old 10-17-2019, 01:32 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by ZMEnow View Post
You don't need the upper, you can get those numbers with 18% lower, Headers, 1000 + injectors, some sort of fuel pressure assistance i.e (BAP) or alternate pump, CAI, good tune. Suggest Jannety JRE(125 package). You mention 700 plus that would be crank not RWHP, you will be about 630RWHP, and can run on 93.
Is there any advantage to changing the lower instead of the upper? Not super knowledgeable on these engines, but is seems like the upper would be easier to change at a glance.
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:10 PM   #6
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Lower is easier in my opinion, plus you get more belt wrap / surface area that way.
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:49 PM   #7
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Is there any advantage to changing the lower instead of the upper? Not super knowledgeable on these engines, but is seems like the upper would be easier to change at a glance.
The lower is always the better option for belt traction and range.

Ted.
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Old 11-01-2019, 12:26 PM   #8
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Got a 13 zl1 with 2.4 upper, 10% lower, tap headers, ls3 ported heads, port the stock snout and throttle body. Would be a good idea to get a 102mm throttle body and if so, would I gain any extra hp from it?
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Old 11-01-2019, 12:49 PM   #9
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Got a 13 zl1 with 2.4 upper, 10% lower, tap headers, ls3 ported heads, port the stock snout and throttle body. Would be a good idea to get a 102mm throttle body and if so, would I gain any extra hp from it?
If it were mine, I'd go cam first. You're already spinning it pretty hard for the stock cam. Even a small, undetectable cam would make use of the rest of your mods better. The stock cam is pretty restrictive. Once you threw the cam in there, you'd definitely see the benefit of a 102mm TB. As it sits now, you'd just be allowing more air into the supercharger, which is just going to add boost/heat. I'm guessing you're at 16-17lbs already.

If you don't go the cam route, I'd shoot some meth in there, or go to flex fuel.

I'm sure you'll get some other good opinions/options, too.
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Old 11-02-2019, 08:21 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by MADDOGG79 View Post
Got a 13 zl1 with 2.4 upper, 10% lower, tap headers, ls3 ported heads, port the stock snout and throttle body. Would be a good idea to get a 102mm throttle body and if so, would I gain any extra hp from it?
I would hope that you have fuel system and injector upgrades to go along with all this boost.

The 102 could be worth 20 RWHP on your combo but you need a Cam package to really make some power and take stress off your engine.

Ted.
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Old 11-02-2019, 09:07 AM   #11
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Yes I did forget to mention that I do have a tsp stage 3 cam installed and fic 1000 injectors.
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Old 11-02-2019, 11:45 AM   #12
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Since you have the cam, then yeah, throw that 102 on there. Not sure what intake you have, but I'm assuming it's better than stock.
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Old 11-06-2019, 10:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
I would hope that you have fuel system and injector upgrades to go along with all this boost.

The 102 could be worth 20 RWHP on your combo but you need a Cam package to really make some power and take stress off your engine.

Ted.
Hi Ted, I've been following this thread. kinda in the same boat. just bought a low mile zl1 and want get some more power. can you explain why having a cam will take stress off the engine. thanks.
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Old 11-07-2019, 08:21 AM   #14
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Hi Ted, I've been following this thread. kinda in the same boat. just bought a low mile zl1 and want get some more power. can you explain why having a cam will take stress off the engine. thanks.
We always want to address restrictions to gain power.

Boost is a product of restriction.

Running a lot of boost (as in the pulley combo above) is a result of 2 things, Superchargers ability to move air VS. Engines ability to move air.

We don't want to force feed an engine air it can't move.

Boost makes Heat.

Heat leads to detonation.

Changing the a cam that moves more air, lowers parasitic drag on the blower, reduces heat, which reduces chance of detonation, and just make the engine overall happier.

I hope this helps if not feel free to call for a clearer explanation 203-753-7223

Ted.
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