!!! ARP Head Bolt Broken off in Block!!! - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

booneSS13 · 04-25-2018, 09:07 AM

I'm kind of dead in the water. In the middle of putting my head back on the last bolt snapped off about 2" deep into the block. I don't know what to do now. Having a hard time drilling through the bolt as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

BTW. I torqued all my bolts down per ARP instructions. And was on my second pass. This was one of the bigger bolts in middle

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111MOTORSPORTS · 04-25-2018, 09:16 AM

Might have to take it to a machine shop. I would contact ARP and see what they can do for you because if the block needs machined it will most likely not be cheap.

booneSS13 · 04-25-2018, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 111MOTORSPORTS

Might have to take it to a machine shop. I would contact ARP and see what they can do for you because if the block needs machined it will most likely not be cheap.

The only thing ARP is willing to do is send me another bolt and send the other one to a metallurist. What is a machine shop going to do with the out of the car that can't be done with it inside of the car?

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xc_SS/RS · 04-25-2018, 10:07 AM

get ARP on the phone i bet they'll help out for sure. these bolts shouldn't break and now i'm nervous to use the set of head bolts i have.

were these brand new or did you reuse them?

edit: saw what ARP is willing to do and thats a little disappointing but failures do happen. hope you get it out easy!

booneSS13 · 04-25-2018, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

get ARP on the phone i bet they'll help out for sure. these bolts shouldn't break and now i'm nervous to use the set of head bolts i have.

were these brand new or did you reuse them?

I had them on the phone and they were very unapologetic and unhelpful. These bolts were only used once with 11k miles on them. This is the second time I've had an ARP head bolt break on me as well. I would definitely be skeptical. There's a BUNCH of threads on Yellowbullet.com and Ls1tech.com with people reporting broken head bolts & studs

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NEstyle · 04-25-2018, 11:07 AM

Were you using a torque wrench? Did it break before the bolt head was in contact with the cylinder head? Can you weld a nut to it and unscrew it?

frankwjr · 04-25-2018, 11:10 AM

did a whole thread on this...sum peeps blew me off...https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...ad+bolt+torque

btw - last ditch down and dirty...get an old arc welder and see if a rod could be tacked to the stud...good luck man!

peace

xc_SS/RS · 04-25-2018, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booneSS13

I had them on the phone and they were very unapologetic and unhelpful. These bolts were only used once with 11k miles on them. This is the second time I've had an ARP head bolt break on me as well. I would definitely be skeptical. There's a BUNCH of threads on Yellowbullet.com and Ls1tech.com with people reporting broken head bolts & studs

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thats unfortunate and i saw some of those threads you mention. sorry this happened man but it could be worse. you'll get over this hurdle and have your car running soon

383z · 04-25-2018, 12:07 PM

Damn, I've done a similar thing, but in a head. I bought really good bits and took my time. It took FOREVER!
I so feel your pain. If your engine is out maybe take it to a machine shop?

Kawijames · 04-25-2018, 12:23 PM

What about using a left handed drill bit? Saved my bacon on a broken starter bolt in a Detroit diesel.

JerTM · 04-25-2018, 03:00 PM

I have used a kit on a different engine that was made specifically for drilling out broken head bolts. There may be a kit available that would help you do it for an LS engine. Having said that, when you get it out check to make sure there isn't coolant or oil in the bottom of the hole.

go_go_gadget88 · 04-25-2018, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booneSS13

What is a machine shop going to do with the out of the car that can't be done with it inside of the car?

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Be able to try and drill out the old bolt and re-tap the block nice and square as to avoid further damage? Would be harder to take it to them in the car I imagine, with it not running right now and all. It's possible it can be extracted/repaired if needed in place

Just curious, do you have the updated ARP bolt set with the "waffle" pattern in the washers? Did you follow their directions exactly or do things different? Just curious.

111MOTORSPORTS · 04-25-2018, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booneSS13

The only thing ARP is willing to do is send me another bolt and send the other one to a metallurist. What is a machine shop going to do with the out of the car that can't be done with it inside of the car?

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they would most likely have a little better "tooling" to get it out, they would probably drill it out and retap the hole

Russell James · 04-25-2018, 05:46 PM

Did you use the ARP lube, and according to the instructions only on one side of the washer. If the wrong lube or on both sides of the washer... the actual tq being applied can be way more the tq wrench is reading. I've watched people grease the hell out of head bolts with assembly lube and then procede to snap several bolts or studs in half. Which is why ARP came out with their own lube and directions to use only on one side of the washer so tq is not affected.

Getting that bolt out... I'd get a good easy out extractor set. Name brand, made in USA... ie snap on, matco....

A bolt, with no head on it, has hardly any tq holding it in. The threads are in a bind. They are being pulled up. So.... follow the instructions in the extractor set to drill into the bolt while it is still in thread bind. Once you get that hole started...take a punch and punch down with a sharp rap to help unbind the threads. They are being bound up... tap down. Then use the extractor to grab into that hole started and spin it out.

If you approach it like that and stick with it...I bet you'll get it out. People think a broken bolt has tons of torque on it.... but with no head, it virturally has none. Just the little bind that the threads are in. Once you tap down to unbind the threads.... it'll spin out. Which extractors are good at grabbing and spinning out. Shouldn't have to retap the threads. Avoid the temptation to go crazy with a big drill bit....stick with the extractor until it spins out.

04-25-2018, 09:07 AM	#1
booneSS13 Drives: 2013 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Davenport IA Posts: 718	!!! ARP Head Bolt Broken off in Block!!! I'm kind of dead in the water. In the middle of putting my head back on the last bolt snapped off about 2" deep into the block. I don't know what to do now. Having a hard time drilling through the bolt as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. BTW. I torqued all my bolts down per ARP instructions. And was on my second pass. This was one of the bigger bolts in middle Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk __________________ *Romans 5:8* But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. -Fastlane Cold Air Intake, NPP cat back exhaust, Stainless Works LT Headers, 2r max camshaft, Stage 3 Ported Heads (Manley Stainless steel values, titanium retainers, dual valve springs, bronze guides), Wiseco Forged Pistons, K1 Forged Rods, Clevite Bearings, Factory Crankshaft, Comp Cams rocker arm trunion kit, Morel 5315 lifters, JP performance single billet timing chain, Melling oil pump, Spec stage 3+ clutch and flywheel, BMR trailing arms, Nitto 555r 305/35/20.

04-25-2018, 10:07 AM	#4
xc_SS/RS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: somewhere in MD Posts: 4,883	get ARP on the phone i bet they'll help out for sure. these bolts shouldn't break and now i'm nervous to use the set of head bolts i have. were these brand new or did you reuse them? edit: saw what ARP is willing to do and thats a little disappointing but failures do happen. hope you get it out easy! __________________ 2010 2SS/RS Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53

04-25-2018, 11:10 AM	#7
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	did a whole thread on this...sum peeps blew me off...https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...ad+bolt+torque btw - last ditch down and dirty...get an old arc welder and see if a rod could be tacked to the stud...good luck man! peace __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

04-25-2018, 09:16 AM	#2
111MOTORSPORTS Drives: Black 2015 rs Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Bright,IN Posts: 271	Might have to take it to a machine shop. I would contact ARP and see what they can do for you because if the block needs machined it will most likely not be cheap.

04-25-2018, 11:07 AM	#6
NEstyle Drives: Caprice Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: SE PA Posts: 194	Were you using a torque wrench? Did it break before the bolt head was in contact with the cylinder head? Can you weld a nut to it and unscrew it?

04-25-2018, 12:07 PM	#9
383z Drives: 1993 Camaro Z28 Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Houston Posts: 21	Damn, I've done a similar thing, but in a head. I bought really good bits and took my time. It took FOREVER! I so feel your pain. If your engine is out maybe take it to a machine shop?

04-25-2018, 12:23 PM	#10
Kawijames Drives: 2014 SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 13	What about using a left handed drill bit? Saved my bacon on a broken starter bolt in a Detroit diesel.

04-25-2018, 03:00 PM	#11
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	I have used a kit on a different engine that was made specifically for drilling out broken head bolts. There may be a kit available that would help you do it for an LS engine. Having said that, when you get it out check to make sure there isn't coolant or oil in the bottom of the hole.

04-25-2018, 05:46 PM	#14
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Did you use the ARP lube, and according to the instructions only on one side of the washer. If the wrong lube or on both sides of the washer... the actual tq being applied can be way more the tq wrench is reading. I've watched people grease the hell out of head bolts with assembly lube and then procede to snap several bolts or studs in half. Which is why ARP came out with their own lube and directions to use only on one side of the washer so tq is not affected. Getting that bolt out... I'd get a good easy out extractor set. Name brand, made in USA... ie snap on, matco.... A bolt, with no head on it, has hardly any tq holding it in. The threads are in a bind. They are being pulled up. So.... follow the instructions in the extractor set to drill into the bolt while it is still in thread bind. Once you get that hole started...take a punch and punch down with a sharp rap to help unbind the threads. They are being bound up... tap down. Then use the extractor to grab into that hole started and spin it out. If you approach it like that and stick with it...I bet you'll get it out. People think a broken bolt has tons of torque on it.... but with no head, it virturally has none. Just the little bind that the threads are in. Once you tap down to unbind the threads.... it'll spin out. Which extractors are good at grabbing and spinning out. Shouldn't have to retap the threads. Avoid the temptation to go crazy with a big drill bit....stick with the extractor until it spins out.