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Old 06-15-2018, 09:18 AM   #15
Jrod510
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oslouie View Post
Just get a few banks of supercaps

I don't think the D6500 is going to work. Polarity is on the wrong side unless there is enough slack to stretch the wiring. The D4800 seem like a better fit but lower specs or D3400R.

That’s the thing im worried about if the battery isn’t actually going to fit. I’ve been trying to find someone who has an xs battery to see which one would fit . Might just end up calling them but the d6500 was the one it recommend on their website with a few mods
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:42 AM   #16
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Just call them and ask for the dimensions of the battery box. Then measure your to figure that out. I notice you're from the 510 like myself. I too will be doing music upgrades and we both orange

Sorry we're kinda thread jacking but this event is going down tomorrow dm me if you guys are interested in meeting up.
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:51 AM   #17
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510 here as well.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:14 PM   #18
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Ooo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron0731 View Post
A high output alternator is what you want.
If your battery is still good, don't waste your money on a new one until it goes bad. What you want is a high-out alternator (250-300 amps). Checkout eBay... https://m.ebay.com/itm/New-High-Perf...m=173337810712.
This along with upgrading the "Big 3" should be sufficient up to a 2000W system. There's a lot of misconceptions about batteries & capicators. Batteries are great for listening when the vehicle is not running, but are not a replacement for a proper power supply. Same with capacitors, their main function is to protect your speakers from a power surge. A capacitor cannot act like a battery, it only serves to fill in what would otherwise be very small dips in the supply voltage. I'm currently installing my system (2500W) and went with a 300A high-output alternator, Kenetik HC2400B Black series competition battery, Memphis Audio 20V 1F surge capacitor, & Kicker 1/0ga copper wire (Big 3 upgrade).
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jrod510 View Post
Yeah currently my amp Is pushing out around 1.5-1.8k rms I believe
Just like any car mods you need a good base, and you have to pay to play.I know it seems expensive to buy a $300 alt, but that's alot cheaper then when you factory alt dies and kills the battery. What amp are you running? If it is pushing 1.5-1.8k your lights must already be dimming when the bass hits. That is slowly killing your alt.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:34 PM   #20
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How much power you running? Anything over 1k-1500 rms and your going to need a bigger alt. If under that replace the stock with what ever from xs that will fit plus like a xs750 or something. If you haven't done so do yourself a favor and run some 0/1 from the alt to the battery, chassis ground, and battery ground. I always use welding cable as it's much cheaper, more flexible, more weather resistant than stereo cable.
Didn't see your earlier post or would have posted "Ditto" under your quote & not wrote a separate term paper~lol. Good call on using welding cable...cannot think of a better wire to handle constant high current. Definitely going to go that route with my Silverado (especially when relocating the battery to the bed).

Last edited by el Wulf; 06-15-2018 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:55 PM   #21
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As if I needed a reason to spend more money....

I ordered 20' of red 1/0 welding cable, 3' of black 1/0 cable, ends, and new connectors to add to my car next weekend. New battery, new alternator, new trunk ground, and, eventually a new starter motor cable. I have to remove a turbo to get to the starter so Ill wait on the starter until there is a need to remove the passenger side turbo.

If I can get the alternator listed in black, I'll add it too.

Anyone know the size of the factory battery cable? If it will fit in the new battery terminals (I got the kind that will accept (1) 1/0, (1) 4g, and (2) 8g wires at the same time) I will just run factory and the new wires. I read on a couple of sites (and in the ad for the high amp alternator) to leave the factory cables and run new ones along them as well. The electricity takes the path of least resistance.
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by blake-b View Post
As if I needed a reason to spend more money....

I ordered 20' of red 1/0 welding cable, 3' of black 1/0 cable, ends, and new connectors to add to my car next weekend. New battery, new alternator, new trunk ground, and, eventually a new starter motor cable. I have to remove a turbo to get to the starter so Ill wait on the starter until there is a need to remove the passenger side turbo.

If I can get the alternator listed in black, I'll add it too.

Anyone know the size of the factory battery cable? If it will fit in the new battery terminals (I got the kind that will accept (1) 1/0, (1) 4g, and (2) 8g wires at the same time) I will just run factory and the new wires. I read on a couple of sites (and in the ad for the high amp alternator) to leave the factory cables and run new ones along them as well. The electricity takes the path of least resistance.
You're adding to it. I'm sure they both run on the same path. Everyone of my vehicles with the big3, I've always just added to the existing factory wiring.
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:17 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Jrod510 View Post
That’s the thing im worried about if the battery isn’t actually going to fit. I’ve been trying to find someone who has an xs battery to see which one would fit . Might just end up calling them but the d6500 was the one it recommend on their website with a few mods
I wouldn't even call them. You only have to worry about 2 things...if the dimensions are the same or slightly smaller than our stock battery and if the polarity is on the correct side. If both of these are yes then it'll work. I am in need of replacing mine too as I'm still rolling with the stock one from 2011, unless previous owner changed it before I took ownership in 2014. I'm leaning towards the D3400R.
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:18 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blake-b View Post
As if I needed a reason to spend more money....

I ordered 20' of red 1/0 welding cable, 3' of black 1/0 cable, ends, and new connectors to add to my car next weekend. New battery, new alternator, new trunk ground, and, eventually a new starter motor cable. I have to remove a turbo to get to the starter so Ill wait on the starter until there is a need to remove the passenger side turbo.

If I can get the alternator listed in black, I'll add it too.

Anyone know the size of the factory battery cable? If it will fit in the new battery terminals (I got the kind that will accept (1) 1/0, (1) 4g, and (2) 8g wires at the same time) I will just run factory and the new wires. I read on a couple of sites (and in the ad for the high amp alternator) to leave the factory cables and run new ones along them as well. The electricity takes the path of least resistance.
I'm pretty sure its 4ga. When I head out today I'll double check. That's why I recommended the upgrade. Trying to run more than 1k threw that little cable and your going to burn shit up.

Even when I put a little stereo in my fiance's car (600 rms) I upgraded all the power and ground. The difference in temperature for the amp alone is unreal.

Everyone should think of cable as supporting mods. Can't just throw 20 psi at a stock ls3 and think it'll never brake. Same thing with audio. Look at those massive builds online 4 or 5 alts 20 batteries 10 runs of power and ground. You need power to make power
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:06 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by oslouie View Post
I wouldn't even call them. You only have to worry about 2 things...if the dimensions are the same or slightly smaller than our stock battery and if the polarity is on the correct side. If both of these are yes then it'll work. I am in need of replacing mine too as I'm still rolling with the stock one from 2011, unless previous owner changed it before I took ownership in 2014. I'm leaning towards the D3400R.

Ok so I’m not too familiar with batteries so what do you mean the right polarity? I seen the 3400r is reverse polarity so what’s does that mean?
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:07 AM   #26
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:52 AM   #27
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Ok so I’m not too familiar with batteries so what do you mean the right polarity? I seen the 3400r is reverse polarity so what’s does that mean?
He's referring to which side the positive and negative terminals are on. The OEM cabling doesn't have a lot of slack in it.
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Old 06-20-2018, 10:12 PM   #28
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Everything has showed up except the alternator which arrives Friday.

FYI, 1/0 welding cable is only slightly larger than the OEM battery cable that comes from the battery and runs to the engine compartment. 1/0 welding cable is also slightly larger than the ground that runs from the negative post of the battery to the chassis. 1/0 welding cable is bigger than the alternator + wire though. The factory cables are 50mm area squared and the 1/0 cable is 55mm area squared. The factory is AWG is a 1. The 1/0 cable is the next size bigger.

I left the ground cable in place and since I had some black 1/0 cable, I added it to an alternator bolt and ran it to a frame ground bolt.

I'm still going to add the 1/0 cable parallel to the battery positive cable and the alternator. The cable I have running to my starter is also bigger than the 1/0 welding cable so I won't mess with it.

Last edited by blake-b; 06-27-2018 at 02:13 PM. Reason: Found actual measurements for cable.
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