Confirmed rear main is leaking...

[ZO6 Bryan]

Originally Posted by millhouse

Gm part # 12639250. Its the whole rear plate with the gasket and the rear main. Thats the best way to do it.

12639250 is the whole rear cover. You don't need all that. You just need the seal.

[Todd in Vancouver]

Originally Posted by Cdubya69

Agree. Purchased and installed the Elite Engineering E2-X catch can back in June.

Question for you;

Have you noticed it gets worse then the catch can starts getting full?

When driving mine the other day I could occasionally smell oil when I stopped. Remembered I hadn't emptied the CC in a while, it was kinda full, and after the smell went away. Curious if anyone else has noticed similar.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan

12639250 is the whole rear cover. You don't need all that. You just need the seal.

Just make sure you follow the directions carefully when swapping the rear seal only. Many techs at dealerships will not change only the rear seal as they get a leak with a new seal. If you use an install tool and the seal is perfectly centered, it should be leak free. The job is a PITA so the whole rear cover with a seal pre installed may not be a bad idea.

[Omega]

Bit of a thread resurrection but if you buy the cover with the seal preinstalled, how do you align the cover? Ive only seen the tube style alignment tool which you use without the seal in the cover.

I just removed the trans for a clutch swap and have found a little bit of oil slung around the bell housing. It could be from when I removed the oil pan but i'm torn as to whether or not I should replace the RMS while I'm there.

[ZMEnow]

Is this a ZL1 or G8?

[Omega]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Is this a ZL1 or G8?

G8/LS3

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[ZMEnow]

If you are doing the cover and seal together you will still need to use the alignment tool to make sure the seal doesn't pop off the cover as you press over the crank. Of course once you clear you are aligned. You still need to torque sequence the cover from the oil pan to cover and back again.

See this video or give them a call.
http://www.saccitycorvette.com/AlignItTools.html

How do you know you have a leak, is the flywheel off? If you have one you will see a trail down the cover and down the back of the pan or its all over the back off the flywheel. Here is mine when I inspected it, in the second pick you can see just a drop around the crank bolt hole and that's normal.

[Omega]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

If you are doing the cover and seal together you will still need to use the alignment tool to make sure the seal doesn't pop off the cover as you press over the crank. Of course once you clear you are aligned. You still need to torque sequence the cover from the oil pan to cover and back again.

See this video or give them a call.
http://www.saccitycorvette.com/AlignItTools.html

How do you know you have a leak, is the flywheel off? If you have one you will see a trail down the cover and down the back of the pan or its all over the back off the flywheel. Here is mine when I inspected it, in the second pick you can see just a drop around the crank bolt hole and that's normal.

I've recently gone FI and the clutch can't hold the power unless I slip it for a bit and get it hot...So I'm upgrading.

When I took it apart, the friction material was damn near new but the flywheel/pressure plate are ugly. There is some oil around the bottom of the bell housing and the oil thermostat was weaping and could have made it into the clutch area also. I'm not positive the RMS is leaking, but I'd like to know what happened to my clutch before I put the new one in and have the same thing happen.

Here are some pics:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uP2jwrMjF4gF30K93

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[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Omega

I've recently gone FI and the clutch can't hold the power unless I slip it for a bit and get it hot...So I'm upgrading.

When I took it apart, the friction material was damn near new but the flywheel/pressure plate are ugly. There is some oil around the bottom of the bell housing and the oil thermostat was weaping and could have made it into the clutch area also. I'm not positive the RMS is leaking, but I'd like to know what happened to my clutch before I put the new one in and have the same thing happen.

Here are some pics:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uP2jwrMjF4gF30K93

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A couple of things , first that flywheel has burn marks all over it and that is from slipping, you mentioned you need to slip to get things to hook up, well that is the exact opposite of what really happens. The best traction you will get out of that flywheel is when its cold, because as it heats up and you have uneven surfaces on the flywheel the clutch material will just become hot and greasy against the flywheel and slip.

On the back side of the flywheel I cant tell if that is oil spinoff in the center or just clutch dust spinoff, rub your finger against and you will know.

Looking at that pilot bearing it looks as if someone has been in there before because it looks pretty banged up like someone tried to put it in with a hammer, or someone had the trans out and was banging against the bearing trying to get the trans back in. If you aren't the original owner then I suspect someone has been in there.

The oil on the seal cover is a little darker at the bottom of the seal compared to the top and the ends where the oil pans meets seem to maybe have some sign of RTP wear, but without being there its hard to tell.

The leak inside the trans bell housing has to be fixed, anything that gets to the clutch disc is always going to slip, so you should check on the trans clutch vent usually on the lower right side of the bell housing and it will have black clutch soot, but shouldn't have oil mixed in..

[Omega]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

A couple of things , first that flywheel has burn marks all over it and that is from slipping, you mentioned you need to slip to get things to hook up, well that is the exact opposite of what really happens. The best traction you will get out of that flywheel is when its cold, because as it heats up and you have uneven surfaces on the flywheel the clutch material will just become hot and greasy against the flywheel and slip.

On the back side of the flywheel I cant tell if that is oil spinoff in the center or just clutch dust spinoff, rub your finger against and you will know.

Looking at that pilot bearing it looks as if someone has been in there before because it looks pretty banged up like someone tried to put it in with a hammer, or someone had the trans out and was banging against the bearing trying to get the trans back in. If you aren't the original owner then I suspect someone has been in there.

The oil on the seal cover is a little darker at the bottom of the seal compared to the top and the ends where the oil pans meets seem to maybe have some sign of RTP wear, but without being there its hard to tell.

The leak inside the trans bell housing has to be fixed, anything that gets to the clutch disc is always going to slip, so you should check on the trans clutch vent usually on the lower right side of the bell housing and it will have black clutch soot, but shouldn't have oil mixed in..

Hmm, makes sense that it shouldn't slip when hot.

The back of the flywheel has oil spin off.

Ignore the pilot bearing marks, that was a breif attempt to use the wrong tool to remove it. Im the only one who has been in the trans.

RTP? I agree, the bottom seam looks more damp than the rest. Sounds like its time to take the cover off, reseal the bottom and make sure the oil thermostat isn't screwing me.

I'll check out the vent too.

Thanks


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[Omega]

Ok, I bought the install tool, new seal and cover gasket. Read about the cover giving issues so I bought that too. The cover arrived today WITH bolts, seal AND gasket!

My question is how do I properly instal the cover when the tool I have requires the seal to be removed? I could just slide the setup on the crank and tighten the bolts but that seems wrong.

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[h018871]

Originally Posted by Omega

Ok, I bought the install tool, new seal and cover gasket. Read about the cover giving issues so I bought that too. The cover arrived today WITH bolts, seal AND gasket!

My question is how do I properly instal the cover when the tool I have requires the seal to be removed? I could just slide the setup on the crank and tighten the bolts but that seems wrong.

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Put gasket goop along the bottom of the rear cover and in the bottom corners where the pan meets the block. Just put it on and tighten the bolts
Straight forward