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Old 06-17-2019, 04:50 PM   #15
Joe M 2012 2SS


 
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The fuse pull did help for sure. I was just confused because the 2 lights that come on when you disable Stabilitrac/T/C no longer come on, but as long as they are off that's good by me.

The ABS and BRAKE lights that are on don't cause the car to run any worse or affect using the brakes, and they go right back off when fuses are reinstalled. So no harm, no foul.

I wont be going back to the strip until fall, when the D/A is better.

My only dilemma now is getting some new DR's. I'm sure my ET Street R 305/45/18's will make a few more passes.
But I realize these tires being 29", that they are costing me time. In good DA, I get 1.4X 60' times, but I know they are slowing me down on ET. A 28" or even better, a 27"....would cut my ET for sure.....But will it hook?

I haven't found any really good options for 18/9.5 wheels.....Nitto NT05 285/40/18....these would never hook......MT ET Street S/S 275/45/18.....these might hook with perfect prep, don't see any cars running under 1.6X 60' at the strip running these......M&H Racemaster 275/45/18......saw a vette run consistent 7.0 passes with these, but I couldn't see the size.....I called M&H and talked to someone who told me these hook better than MT ET Street R.....first thing that came to mind was........maybe I should call him back and ask if he will refund my money if they don't hook as well as MT ET Street R's?
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
The fuse pull did help for sure. I was just confused because the 2 lights that come on when you disable Stabilitrac/T/C no longer come on, but as long as they are off that's good by me.

The ABS and BRAKE lights that are on don't cause the car to run any worse or affect using the brakes, and they go right back off when fuses are reinstalled. So no harm, no foul.

I wont be going back to the strip until fall, when the D/A is better.

My only dilemma now is getting some new DR's. I'm sure my ET Street R 305/45/18's will make a few more passes.
But I realize these tires being 29", that they are costing me time. In good DA, I get 1.4X 60' times, but I know they are slowing me down on ET. A 28" or even better, a 27"....would cut my ET for sure.....But will it hook?

I haven't found any really good options for 18/9.5 wheels.....Nitto NT05 285/40/18....these would never hook......MT ET Street S/S 275/45/18.....these might hook with perfect prep, don't see any cars running under 1.6X 60' at the strip running these......M&H Racemaster 275/45/18......saw a vette run consistent 7.0 passes with these, but I couldn't see the size.....I called M&H and talked to someone who told me these hook better than MT ET Street R.....first thing that came to mind was........maybe I should call him back and ask if he will refund my money if they don't hook as well as MT ET Street R's?
I used 305/45/18 NTO5Rs on Grand Sport Repro wheels that were 18x9.5 and ran 1.578 on the 60'. It can be done, you just need a decent burnout and decent prep.
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:25 PM   #17
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I used 305/45/18 NTO5Rs on Grand Sport Repro wheels that were 18x9.5 and ran 1.578 on the 60'. It can be done, you just need a decent burnout and decent prep.

My car runs 1.4X 60' on the MT ET Street R in good DA consistently, which for me is 600-800, there isn't a better hooking tire you can drive to the dragstrip (Legally) that I've ever seen.

I haven't seen anyone running nitrous and a torque converter that can hook with NT05's.

I don't know what your mods are....1.58 is good....but can you do that consistently?
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:27 PM   #18
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Rather than start an entire new line lock/ stability track issue post I’m just going to add this here to Joe’s post regarding the other method of resolving the issue as noted above etc. with the relay method. As noted above joe used the manual fuse pull method and following the notes in the thread you see he does not have S/T issues anymore. The diagram and info on the manual fuse pull way is all outlined etc. above.

Here is the inline relay method. Here are the few post I took screen shots on when I was searching for resolution to the line lock use and stability track issues. The first 3 pictures are from a guy that tested the theory and found resolution etc. he used the toggle button to the actual activation button.

The 4th picture will be of the improvement to the first guy followed by a forum member that found the main master switch is better to use so the fuse is disarmed the entire time when master switch is on ABS fuse stay disconnected until master switch is turned off. This is how mine is set up.

Notes: I must point out that I found that on the cars with electric steering like mine you get a power steering message on the dash also but it does not effect anything for steering and you still can steer etc. I’m not sure on non electric steering cars if the power steering message pops up; however, everything will go back to normal after your burn out and you then disarm the master switch. Also both methods resolve the S/t issue. Both methods also will put a abs light on and put the car into the all nannies off mode. You should see the light on with the skid marks on both methods.
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:31 PM   #19
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:33 PM   #20
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:35 PM   #21
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:37 PM   #22
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Here’s the improvement to his testing above 3 pictures. FYI this is really simple and I’ll add a diagram so it’s easier to follow for anyone who is not sure to follow etc.
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:39 PM   #23
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Old 06-17-2019, 09:03 PM   #24
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The strange thing is the light with the car and the skid marks behind it is the Traction Control/Stabilitrack light. This light is supposed to flash off and on when the computer is using the TC/Stabilitrak to control the vehicle on a low traction surface.

The lights that come on when you hold the nanny button in are the T/C with the line through it, indicating traction control is off, and the one with the car and the skid marks that says OFF under it, indicating stabilitrak is off.

You can also just push the nanny button twice, and these same two lights will illuminate, but the car will be in "Stabilitrak Competitive Mode", which doesn't fully disarm stabilitrak.

And for that matter, even when you hold the button in for 8 seconds, the "service stabilitrac" will still come up on the dash when doing a burnout with a line lock, so it's not fully turned off then either.

Just really strange the light that indicates TC/Stabilitrak is being used, is the light that comes on when you pull the fuses, or do the relay, but you get no service stabilitrack codes when doing either.

If I could just tune all of this off the car, that would be the best solution for me. I don't drive the car hard on the street, or race on the street, so I don't need T/C and Stabilitrak anyway.
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Old 06-17-2019, 09:41 PM   #25
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Here is a quick diagram I did up showing the relay added in line to act as a fuse pull on fuse #40. If you already have installed a line lock, then
You’ll only need to branch from power out of master switch and add the area in the blue circle section. This cost about 10-20 buck to do and I find the best way to resolve the Stability trac issue encountered when using the line lock. Ps. I’m half asleep so no grammar nazi’s please. Lol



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Old 06-18-2019, 09:03 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
My car runs 1.4X 60' on the MT ET Street R in good DA consistently, which for me is 600-800, there isn't a better hooking tire you can drive to the dragstrip (Legally) that I've ever seen.

I haven't seen anyone running nitrous and a torque converter that can hook with NT05's.

I don't know what your mods are....1.58 is good....but can you do that consistently?
Yeah I usually average 1.6x with good DA. Mods are in my build thread, nothing extensive, just some parts put together that work well for now. Theres lots more to be done. I have the MT Street S/S now, just haven't made it out to the strip in good DA with the present setup. Good luck with your line lock btw, post some slips when ya get em!
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:57 PM   #27
Joe M 2012 2SS


 
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Yeah I usually average 1.6x with good DA. Mods are in my build thread, nothing extensive, just some parts put together that work well for now. Theres lots more to be done. I have the MT Street S/S now, just haven't made it out to the strip in good DA with the present setup. Good luck with your line lock btw, post some slips when ya get em!
As mentioned earlier, I wont be back at the strip until the DA is good. Will probably try and beat the 7.84 I ran...15th spot in the 1/8th fast list for bolt-on's only....won't be running the juice.

I see you are no longer running the NT05, but running MT now...I see the same from everyone at the strip I go to as well....The MT S/S hook up better, but the ET Street R hook best from what I've seen....Too bad they don't make these in 27" or 28" for 18/9.5 wheels.

Need to find some 18/10.5 that fit our cars so I can run the ET Street R 325/35/18 @ 27". With some weight reduction as well, in good DA, I might sneak into the 6.9X ET on the juice.

The 7.84 was done without the 3.91 gear, and no front skinnies, so might get 7.6X with a smaller tire, 3.91, and some weight reduction.

What I would really like is to cut a .000 light. ET's are nice, but lights win races.
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:08 PM   #28
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Yeah I usually average 1.6x with good DA. Mods are in my build thread, nothing extensive, just some parts put together that work well for now. Theres lots more to be done. I have the MT Street S/S now, just haven't made it out to the strip in good DA with the present setup. Good luck with your line lock btw, post some slips when ya get em!
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