Clay bars

[hammdo]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-Don

[swampcritter]

Originally Posted by BRZN

swampcritter, what's the date of the Junkman video you're referring to regarding clays all being the same?

Prior to sometime in 2014 the Auto Magic Company held the patent for all Detailing Clay, and according to Wikipedia 9 out of 10 Clay bars available were manufactured by Auto Magic.

Since then, there have been many different types and styles of Clays becoming available for auto detailing use. I personally like to use the Adam's Visco Elastic Clay with the Geometric Impression tool. The block/bar styles of clays are still available, as are the Clay Mitts and Cloths. Auto Magic still manufactures private label Clay Bars under all sorts of brand names, but many more have become available.

Oh, and Black_SS10, polish is worked, common misuse of the wording. Protection; Glazes, Waxes, Sealants, and now Coatings are applied. Claying the vehicles surface will remove all protection from the paint except Ceramic Coatings, and it's a good idea to reapply a layer of protection after claying. If the clay is aggressive, or was the individual that worked the clay, polishing the paint may be necessary to remove any marring induced by the clay.

All that being said, pick one at a price point you're comfortable with, and try several to find the type/style you like. It's personal preference any more.

Sorry for the late reply,but I am unsure of the video dates.Must have been an older one. It seems that the Speedy Towel is the way to go now.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by broshua

Do you happen to have a link to a good alternative to clay?

This link below provided by Don has the best price I know of online. I actually found mine several years ago at a local PPG paint store I had stopped by to get some 2000 grit wetsand paper. So it's possible to find one locally as well.

Most all of your detailing companies now sell clay alternatives, and I cannot speak for the durability of them, since I have not used them.

They make sponges, wash mitts, towels, and other versions as well. Some cost much less than the SM Arnold. I can say with certainty if you get the SM Arnold, and are only doing your own vehicles with it once a year or so, it will last you for many, many years.

By the same token, many people have used the Nanoskin products, and offerings from Adams, Optimum, etc., and have been very happy with them. So if you prefer to do business with a particular company, look into what their offering is.

Originally Posted by hammdo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-Don

Some additional information for using clay alternatives.

When using standard clay, you have the benefit of seeing the contaminates being picked up by the clay bar.
With the alternative you will not see anything, what you must do instead is listen using the alternative, when the contaminates are removed, you will not hear any more noise coming from the towel as you glide it across the surface.
You can also use the "baggie test" to ensure that contaminates have been removed.


Clay alternatives generally come with a protective film on their surface, so they must be first "broken in" by using them on the exterior glass to remove the film. Your glass will have bonded contaminates as well, so this will also serve the purpose of cleaning it as well.


Do not use clay alternatives in temps below 50* F. The material used on a clay alternative will become brittle if used in too cold of temperatures, minimizing it's effect, and also increasing the opportunity to scratch your paint. Only use fine grade.


Do not use car soap as a lubricant. While standard clay will be fine with car soap, it does not have enough lubricity for a clay alternative. As mentioned earlier, two great values for clay lube are Optimum No Rinse and Ultima WW Plus.

Do not use pressure when using a clay alternative, simply glide it across the surface to remove contaminates.

Clay bars or clay alternatives will not remove iron deposits. While your paint may feel silky smooth after claying, it's likely that some iron deposits are still present on the surface. There are many products on the market that work for their removal. The key to using any of these iron removing products is to not allow them dry on the surface, and to rinse completely off the surface.


Never use clay or a clay alternative in direct sunlight. Use only in the shade after washing the vehicle first.

Once you have completed claying/iron decontamination you can compound/polish, or just put whatever protection product you prefer on your paint. Before doing either, be sure to wipe the surface down with IPA or a paint prep to remove any residues or oils, and wear nitrile gloves during this step to avoid oils from your hands getting on the surface.


A few video's with tips for clay/clay alternatives.

[KirkH]

English made clay is better and causes less marring. Synthetic clay pads are great but they do cause more marring. You definitely should polish after using synthetic clay. There are some very light clays that you can use without polishing.

[DBHWT]

Thanks to all above for the info, especially Joe !!!