JMS Fuel Max Install

[ZO6 Bryan]

Originally Posted by 96ss1664

I will let you know my setup when my car gets tuned April 1, I have noticed that +16V to +16.5V is kind of the sweet spots. I'm going to start with the +0.8V Ramp and see how that works for my setup.



Thanks, kind of curious why they don't recommend going to the battery. I know that it has constant voltage on the red/white wire all the time just like the battery. I do know they recommend only using the GM JMS unit because it has the feature of the JMS going into sleep mode and it wont drain your battery. You would have some voltage drop, but that can be overcome by adjusting the voltage output by the amount of voltage drop. Which I calculated it and it would be about .3-.4 Vdc.

I use the Kenne Bell personally and it has never drained the battery even when parked for a month.

[370zyzfr1]

I had this installed Friday. Installer has installed alot of these and was Leary about this one.

[cbarile]

Originally Posted by 370zyzfr1

I had this installed Friday. Installer has installed alot of these and was Leary about this one.

I was looking into getting the JMS. How much did you pay to have it installed and why was your tuner leary of the JMS?

[370zyzfr1]

Originally Posted by cbarile

I was looking into getting the JMS. How much did you pay to have it installed and why was your tuner leary of the JMS?

I installed it as a package. He just didn't know how effective it would be. It works differently then some others. But we got it set up and it is installed properly by the book.

[Deez-zl1]

Thanx a bunch for this link, it will be very helpful while installing mine this weekend

[JANNETTYRACING]

Great write up, I do prefer you make your splice Close to the FPCM and Use the first diagram for best results.

Going in the fuse port leaves a couple feet of small wire to feed the FPCM.

Ted.

[1KillerSS]

Originally Posted by collins8

Nice write up. I have read that the ZL1 does not like a voltage booster used with its fuel pump control loop. I have read the fuel pump control module will end up throwing codes and in the end it does not work well. Worst case there is a chance the fuel pump control module could go into a thermal over load condition and shutdown on you and that would really suck going lean and ruining an engine. I talked to James Short a very reputable tuner about using one and he told me he does not like them and they just cause problems. I have also talked to Carl at vaporworx
https://www.vaporworx.com/documentat...-systems-work/
and he basically stated the same thing, the voltage boosters do not work well with the GM hardware to control the fuel system in these cars. Check out his site, there is some great reading there.
I am curious how the JMS unit works for you, and I would like for some of the tuners on this site to explain how the voltage boosters work for them. I would love to be able to add some ported heads to get a little more out of my car but I am at my fuel limit and I am not willing to risk the use of a voltage booster.
I know Carl at Vaporworx has been working on an upgraded GM Fuel pump control module that would work on these cars but I have not talked with him in some time to see how the project is going.

Sorry but this is just not the case. They work fine. In fact they work so well, there is a entire industry out there for them and the ZL1. The people who told you that, either want to sell you a different system, one that they will make more money on, or they just don't know what they are talking about.


Great write up! Well done, I am sure this will help a lot of members.

[1KillerSS]

One quick question for the OP, what is the difference between the pedal vs hobbs switch? I mean, I know the difference, but why would you do one over the other?

[JANNETTYRACING]

one is Throttle activated via the factory pedal position sensor, the other is activated off of boost via a hobbs switch, both are fully adjustable turn on points and voltage settings.

[1KillerSS]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

one is Throttle activated via the factory pedal position sensor, the other is activated off of boost via a hobbs switch, both are fully adjustable turn on points and voltage settings.

That part I understand, what I don't understand, is why you would choose one over the other.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by 1KillerSS

That part I understand, what I don't understand, is why you would choose one over the other.

Throttle is cleaner simpler install for most, more of a plug and play.

[1KillerSS]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Throttle is cleaner simpler install for most, more of a plug and play.

Thanks, Ted. I appreciate the information.

[jayno20]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Throttle is cleaner simpler install for most, more of a plug and play.

Is there additional cost for opting for the throttle cable instead of the vacuum line?

[sbmit]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Throttle is cleaner simpler install for most, more of a plug and play.

I agree, its is a simple install. With the plug and play make the install super clean. Just followed the power wire like they did and everything looks great.