2014 SLP BOOSTED 2SS/1LE

[ChaosActual]

My intent for this journal is for it to be both informative as well as a way for me to balance my thoughts on future modifications. Hopefully others that are more experienced than me will chime in with suggestions and ideas. I know that not everything contained in this build/thread will be tasteful to everybody but I hope that we can all keep it respectful.

Motor(+Accessories):
West Coast Racing Cylinder Heads Stage 2 Heads Porting (268-99-68)
BTR Custom Grind Camshaft 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2 (Cam Motion Core)
-BTR Platinum Spring Kit
-BTR Pushrods
ATI 10% OD 8-Rib Super Damper (Pinned)
Innovators West Billet Aluminum 8-Rib Pulleys
JRE Supertensioner
ARP Crankshaft Bolt
Elite Engineering Catch Can (Dirty Side)
Arc Werkz Oil Cooler
Pierburg CWA-100 Intercooler Pump
Mishimoto Radiator
Mishimoto 169f Thermostat

Air:
SLP TVS 2300 Supercharger
3.0” 8-Rib Pulley
SLP Blackwing CAI
Phastek Washer Fluid Relocation & Air Scoop

Fuel(And Electronics):
ZL1 Fuel Pump
DSX Auxiliary Fuel Pump
1000cc Fuel Injector Clinic Injectors
DSX Flex Fuel Kit E85/91
MSD 88867 LS Coil Harness
Taylor 10.4mm 409 Series Plug Wires
NGK TR7IX Plugs (26 Gap)

Exhaust:
2014 1LE Stock NPP Exhaust
Texas Speed Long Tube Headers

Driveline:
McLeod RXT Clutch
DSS 1400HP Axles
Tick Performance speedbleeder
Tick Performance Billet Slave Cylinder Support
Tick Performance Stainless Braided Clutch Line
Wilwood 4oz Separate Clutch Reservoir
ZL1 Clutch Master Cylinder

Cosmetic:
Dual Gauge Pod Pillar w/ AEM 03-0334 Widebands Bank 1 & Bank 2
Vent Mounted HPTuners nGauge
Z/28 Rear Deck Spoiler w/ Wicker Bill
Z/28 Wheels (315/35R20 Rear, 275/40R20 Front)
Halo Headlights
Steve Christy Composites Carbon Fiber Canards
Carbon Fiber Shift Knob

Tuning:
BRC Raceworks(Formerly Cunningham Motorsports) Tuning

[ChaosActual]

Backstory:
Bought the car in July of 2019. The owner of the car wasn't very knowledgeable on it but after inspecting it and seeing the clean title I decided the price was right. I choose to bite the bullet on it despite knowing there were a few things that needed to be added and/or replaced.


Log:

Jul 23:
After having some time to get situated with the car, I had made a list of things that needed to be fixed and/or modified. First and foremost, this was the middle of July in 29 Palms CA so the car needed to have the A/C added. If you aren't acquainted with the area just know that the average temps in that time of the year are between 105-120*. After a quick inspection I confirmed my initial fear that every A/C component had been stripped out.
Parts Replaced:
A/C Compressor – ACDelco 15-22274
A/C Compressor Bracket – GM PN: 12610784
A/C Condenser – Spectra Premium 7-4119
Upper A/C Line – PN: 23147329
Lower A/C Line – PN: 23356008
A/C Pressure Switch – ACDelco 15-51343
Gates A/C Belt – PN: K040373SF
A/C Evaporator Core Temperature Sensor – PN: ACDelco 15-51254
ATI Balancer w/ Accessory Pulley (10% UD)
Misc Bolts –
PN: 11571051 x1
PN: 11588730 x1
PN: 11588735 x3


Jul 25:
Turns out the car doesn’t have headlights or a passenger side seatbelt either… WTF.
Parts Replaced:
GM OEM 13-15 Camaro Front Seat Belts – Belt & Retractor Right: GM PN: 19333078
Misc Bolts: PN: 11588730 x1
PN: 11611431 x2
PN: 92139119 x2
Xenon HID Clip/Ring/Bracket
RCP - D3S8 - D3S/ D3R 8000K Xenon HID Replacement Bulb


Aug 3:
Found that the water pump had a U type bypass hose on it and the heater core was capped off..
Instead of spending upwards of $100 for factory replacement hoses I decided to follow this guide:
Heater Hose Relocation – V8

Parts:
Gates 18078 Heater Hose
Gates 18077 Heater Hose
Hose Clamps x4
Installation Notes: If you know where the heater core inlet/outlet are on the firewall and you know where the water pump inlet/outlet are then this is a very easy installation. It took me approximately 25 minutes. The guide linked above provides plenty of pictures and information.


Sep 7:
Added some front marker lights, I think they actually turned out pretty good.

Smoked Lens LED Side Marker Lights Front Bumper Sidemarker Lamps
Installation notes: These were plug and play. Installation took me about 5 minutes with my car parked on the side of the street. You may need to remove 1-2 bolts and pull the fender liner out of the way to reach the clips.

Oct 7:
Replaced front turn signal bulbs with Philips 7444NA LongerLife Miniature Bulbs.

Oct 8:
Replaced trunk struts because they were not doing a good job at dampening the trunk when it was closing.
Part:
Schnecke V406A10-1282 10.94 inch
Installation Notes:
Use a small/medium flathead screwdriver to remove the clips on the factory struts. After you remove the clips the old struts should pull right out. For installing the new ones you can simply press them on. The 10.94" struts appeared be about 1/8" too long so I had to slightly compress them before pressing them on. You should hear an audible click when they are set in place.

[ChaosActual]

Oct 9:
Picked up an SLP TVS2300 supercharger kit and a few other goodies in a trade.
-SLP TVS2300 blower
-Grip tech 3.4” pulley
-1000cc fuel injector clinic injectors
-MSD coils w/ LS coil harness
- Insulated high flow plug wires
I tossed around the idea of dropping it off at a shop to have it all installed but after receiving quotes in the ~$2,000-2,500 range for installation and tuning I decided that I would install it myself to cut down on the labor costs and then have it tuned after installation. I took a Thursday-Friday off of work and installed it over a long weekend.

Day 1: Removal.. and cleaning.

Day 2: Installation.

Day 3: Pin crank and complete installation.

All in all, the instructions were pretty comprehensive and the only part that I ran in to which I didn’t see in the instructions was where to get the vacuum source for the NPP exhaust. I gave SLP a call and they were able to direct me to a small section that I had overlooked which showed that back passenger side of the intake manifold had a 1/8 NPT port for boost/vacuum. After some deliberation I decided to cap off the vacuum line to the NPP exhaust and use a 1/8 NPT plug for the manifold. I also pulled the 5A fuse in the trunk for the NPP exhaust so now it is always open. The second problem that I ran in to was no matter how much I pulled or tried to reorient the throttle body wires it always fell about 1/2-1" short of the throttle body. Luckily amazon had a plug extension in stock and was able to get it to me over the weekend.
Part:
ICT Billet LS Gen 4 Throttle Body Wire Extension DBW 6 Wire

[ChaosActual]

Oct 14:
Tuning! After a lot of thought and many reviews read I decided to contact Ryne @ BRC raceworks (Formerly Cunningham Motorsports). I was able to put down a deposit and have him send me a base calibration which allowed me to drive the car down there vice having to load a dead weight car on to my trailer. We ran in to some problems with having a misfire in bank 1 under WOT but they happened to have some new NGK TR7IX plugs at the shop which solved the problem. The car made 583whp/498wtq on 91 octane @5# boost but was running out of fuel on the top end. By 6700 rpm my current ZL1 pump had dropped to 44psi(under 5# boost) so somewhere around 48-49psi actual despite the 400kpa(58psi) demanded. It’ll hold for now but I can’t squeeze any more power out of it until I upgrade the fuel supply.

[ChaosActual]

Oct 19:
Installed PHASTEK CUSTOM WASHER TANK AND INTAKE SCOOP COMBO

Parts Needed(if you don’t currently have a washer fluid tank/pump):
Washer fluid pump: ACDelco 8-6710
Universal washer fluid hose kit

Install notes:
Remove the drivers side wheel and fender liner to make everything easily accessible. Installation time takes about 1-1.5 hours.

[ChaosActual]

Oct 20:
After being a little bit disappointed about running out of fuel on the top end with just under 600hp I decided that I was going to verify the fuel pump was in fact a ZL1 pump. Since this is a 1LE, it SHOULD have a ZL1 pump from the factory but since I don’t know the full story of the car I wanted to verify it. Instead of dropping the tank, I opted to cut an access panel for easy access in the future.

More information can be found by following this guide:
Fuel pump access panel

Parts Needed:


Notes:
I used an angle grinder for the cutting. Using the notches in the metal as an orientation I masked off and sketched out a 8”x8” grid for cutting. Go very slow. There is not a whole lot of room and if I had to do it again I would probably use some tin snips instead. It is nerve wracking when sparks are flying right above the fuel tank of your car.. After the cutting was done and I had verified that I did in fact have a ZL1 pump installed I measured an ~8.5”x8.5” square and marked out my sheet metal. After that I drilled 8x holes with 2 spaced out on each side of panel. I then used some 8#x1/2 self tapping screws to drill through the metal of the car. After all the holes were set I backed them all out by about 1/4” to allow me enough room to evenly disperse the black silicone and then snugged everything back up. I chose to use 16ga steel for the panel since it was cheap and I didn’t want to go too thin but after laying my eyes on it I realized it was way too thick. If I could do it again I would probably use 22ga. Oh well, no harm done.

[ChaosActual]

End goals for the car: ~800RWHP/800WTQ

Long term:
Camshaft: The current camshaft (227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2) certainly isn’t doing me much benefit for a forced induction setup. I’d like to replace it with a BTR PDS STAGE 2/3 Cam. While I am fairly certain that I could install the camshaft myself, I am less confident in determining/installing the proper length pushrods so this might be something that I’ll have a shop do.

*DONE* Clutch(when the current one starts slipping or blows up)

*DONE* DSS Level 4 Axles 1000HP

Forged Internals

Short term:
*DONE* DSX aux pump

*DONE* JRE Supertensioner

*DONE* AEM X-Series OBDII Wideband AFR Gauge (30-0334)

*DONE* HPTuners nGauge

*DONE* 3.0” Blower pulley

*DONE* 10% OD ATI balancer

*DONE* Varimax Intercooler Pump

Trunk Ice Tank

AEM Water/Methanol Injection w/ Progressive Controller (30-3300)

*DONE* Braum Racing Seats

Current -
10% UD = 6.78
SLP = 3.4"
Pulley Ratio = 1.994
Current Boost = 4.6#

Target -
ATI 917108 10% OD = 8.235
SLP = 3"
Pulley Ratio = 2.745
Projected Boost = 6.33#
((4.6/1.994)*2.745)

[tstodii]

Nice! I like the progress so far. Sorry to hear the guy/shop before you did some shoddy work but looks like you are the right path to have this beast in tip top shape. I'll be following future progress.

[Slogoat]

Very nice build and details. How are your coolant temps now with the blower? I need to upgrade the radiator on mine and I see you have a Mishimoto.

[ChaosActual]

Originally Posted by Slogoat

Very nice build and details. How are your coolant temps now with the blower? I need to upgrade the radiator on mine and I see you have a Mishimoto.

ECTs seem to hold very steady between 199-208f with a average delta of ~20f for EOTs. I also have an Arcwerkz oil cooler so that may be helping with the ECT/EOT delta. The blower has definitely increased IAT's and I typically see a +40f over ambient temp after everything is warmed up. I have wrapped the intake tube with some header wrap but it didn't seem to have any effect other than looking pretty neat. I will probably be switching to a 169f mishimoto thermostat whenever I get some free time. I'm hoping that will keep the coolant temps sub 200f.

[Slogoat]

Originally Posted by ChaosActual

ECTs seem to hold very steady between 199-208f with a average delta of ~20f for EOTs. I also have an Arcwerkz oil cooler so that may be helping with the ECT/EOT delta. The blower has definitely increased IAT's and I typically see a +40f over ambient temp after everything is warmed up. I have wrapped the intake tube with some header wrap but it didn't seem to have any effect other than looking pretty neat. I will probably be switching to a 169f mishimoto thermostat whenever I get some free time. I'm hoping that will keep the coolant temps sub 200f.

Thanks for the info.

[Batmanntexas]

Nice build!

[ChaosActual]

This was also posted in the DIY section but I decided to make a DIY shortshifter. I figured if it didn't go as planned that I would just buy a Hurst/MGW but I am VERY happy with the results.

DIY Link:
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...php?p=10652135

[ChaosActual]

Finally got around to installing a DSX aux pump and HPTuners nGauge this week.