Hard brake line fitting stripped. Need help ASAP! (solution pending...)

[SSeric]

I'm in the middle of replacing my brake components. Got the new powdercoated calipers & SS brake lines on, but when I was trying to reconnect the passenger front hard line to the Goodridge lines, I realized the hard line fitting's threading is stripped a bit and won't go into my new SS lines or even back into my oem lines. This is my daily so I need to get it back up quick! Any ideas on what I can do? I was thinking of buying a nut with the correct pitch and trying to realign the threads by forcing it on with a socket. I also read about people who had to cut off the old fitting, put on a new one, and flare the end of the hard line out again. I consider myself relatively mechanically inclined, I'm just not familiar with this. Any help would be really helpful right now!!

[White_SS/RS]

Brake fittings are a tapered pipe thread so a nut won't really work. If it's not too bad you could try a tool called a tread file or just get a tread die, just don't go too far or you'll make the fitting too small and it will never tighten up.

[KaBoom1701]

Wow, how did it get stripped?

[SSeric]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

Brake fittings are a tapered pipe thread so a nut won't really work. If it's not too bad you could try a tool called a tread file or just get a tread die, just don't go too far or you'll make the fitting too small and it will never tighten up.

It really doesn't look too bad, maybe the first 2-4 turns around look misaligned. But apparently it's just enough for nothing to catch, including a thread die. I used a 3/8"x24 tap on the threading of the brake line just to make sure those were clean, but unfortunately the same size die wouldn't catch on the threads on the hard line fitting. Thread file didn't work out on these threads either. Maybe they're more chewed up than I realized lol.

[04GOAT-11SS]

According to a GM parts source that line isn't available prebent. I have a hard time believing that as I've purchased prebent lines from GM for vehicles much older. I'd go to the dealer and have them look it up for you. Or of course you can just get some lines and bend and flare it yourself. It's regular 3/16" line. Have you brought your hose to the store to try and match the nut?

[toehead93]

Call your local dealer for a warranty replacement, maybe you can drop the line and get a new one zinc you can't drive it.?

[SSeric]

I've taken the brake hose to the parts store and the 3/8"x24 tap fit the threaded hole in the brake hose. I used it to chase the threads and make sure it was clean but the matching size die wouldn't catch on the hard line fitting. As far as bending/flaring my own line, I could still technically salvage my old line if I could get the right fitting to slip onto it but haven't been able to source one yet.

Edit: I found the part # for the fitting (see post below) and it's supposed to be M10x1.0x16. Perhaps that was why the die wouldn't thread on the fitting I'm trying to salvage? hmmm...half tempted to grab that size die and test the theory as a last resort before I go replacing the fitting altogether.

[SSeric]

Ok update for anyone who runs into a simliar issue, here's what I've found:

Here's the diagram for the parts: link


#9 is the fitting that connects the hardline to the brake hose. It wasn't listed on this link but I contacted my local stealership and they confirmed it's GM part # 11569751. It's a M10x1.0x16 hex nut, inverted flare fitting.

To replace the fitting:

1. Cut the existing flare at the end of the line off.
2. Slide old fitting off
3. Slide new fitting on
4. Reflare the line with a double flare tool (3/16" flare)
(I read that chamfering the outside and inside of the pipe beforehand helps make a good flare)

The line only goes so far so there's not much room for error, which means there's only a couple chances to get the flare right. Cut too much & the line will be too short to reach the brake hose. I'm using the youTube vid HERE and HERE for reference on how to do it. The idea is to cut the existing flare off, file a 45 deg chamfer on the outside, level the end so it's flat, ream the inside, then use the double flare tool as instructed. Do everything as close to the end of the pipe as possible so there's as much slack left as possible. Don't forget to clean the end of the lines with brake cleaner afterwards.

If there's not enough slack and a new hardline is needed then you'll need GM part # 88983905. The part is $73.34 & listed as 3/16" x 16ft, bulk tubing so it won't come pre-bent and will need to be bent accordingly. Since GM isn't saving us any time there I wouldn't bother getting it from them. Instead, Amazon has it for $34.66 here or you can always get one that's already pre-bent off a donor/parts car locally.

[SSeric]

Flared the line out but it's leaking brake fluid from the top of the fitting cause the flare wasn't flush. Took the brake line off the ABS module & taking it to a place that specializes in making lines to let them flare it out. 40 min ride on my motorcycle but it'll only cost me $6. Hoping to have the car up within the week.

[SSeric]

After some trial and error I finally found the smoking gun. Leak ended up coming from the Goodridge line! Had the local hydraulics company make me a new stainless line & it sealed perfectly. Brakes are bled & the car's back on the road. VICTORY!

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[SSeric]

Almost 5 years later and the hard brake line finally gave way. Guessing the line was just short enough where it pulled every so often and cracked. Pedal now goes to the floor and squirts fluid everywhere. Leak looks like it's coming from above the flare nut so it's not on the stainless brake line side. Was looking up the part number and stumbled across my own thread. Thanks google! lol

At any rate, just installed a ton of suspension upgrades and less than a week later the car is down again. This is turning into one hell of a love/hate relationship!