418 stroker oil burning

[Mwalters90]

I purchased a 2010 Camaro SS (automatic) that has a 418 stroker engine in it about 2 months ago. Since I've had it I've been having to top it off with oil at a very quick rate, about 1/2 quart a week.

Thought maybe it was just a "hot-rod" engine, some oil burning would be normal. But this thing is going faster than normal, and the guy who did my dyno tune said that it would require taking the whole motor apart to fix so he's just using some heavier oil to keep it from losing too much (Amsoil 20w50 to be exact).

He also said I have a little more "ring flutter" than before and that eventually, even with topping off the oil every week, the spark plugs will foul out on me. Excuse my ignorance, but I'm not exactly a mechanic, i have no idea what any of this means.

He quoted me atleast $5000 for a whole R&R, replacing the pistons/rings, and honing the cylinders.

Is this something I need to do to keep this car from crapping out on me or should I just try and sell it and pray I get what I paid for it?

[Dimitrim]

I would have your mechanic do a leak down test on all 8 cilinders. It could be coming from your top end, valve guides and valve stem seals. If so it is a lot cheaper doing a valve job than a piston ring job.

[Elite Engineering]

What are you doing as far as PCV system/catchcan? To install the E2 or E2-X systems you can reduce ring flutter and maintain stable rings if you have not run too long with the consumption issue as they utilize 2 separate evacuation suction sources so it improves the PCV systems functions to always evacuate, even when under acceleration and WOT when your OEM system does not evacuate.


How the engine was broken in during those first critical miles of running determine if the rings seat properly before the hard galze covers the cross hatch or not. If the rings did not properly seat during the first few hundred miles that window has long past and it will take a tear down and re-hone to cut the glaze. The leak down test is a must to see what is actually happening inside your engine (not compression test).


Installing a E2 or E2-X system does on some cases allow the rings to free up and seal properly if the cause is from oil ingestion causing varnish and deposits to build in the ring lands preventing rings from moving freely, usually you will know in 500-1000 miles if that is the cause.


The GM techs break in instructions are a great way to ensure proper break-in while what the consumer gets in the owners manual will make it iffy if the seat properly or not:


"]http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/GM%20break%20in%20procedure_zpszw5vzv7q.jpg.html][/URL]


and why:

[rdame]

How much of a stroke on the crank? I was told that if you have a 4" stroke and are not using a Tall deck block, you could be pulling the pistons out of the bottom of the cylinders past the guage point, causing them to rock and resulting in piston wear which eventually will cause oil consumtion and worse over time. I have not researched this thoroughly but I believe the source of the info.

[GuitarMoFo1]

Originally Posted by rdame

How much of a stroke on the crank? I was told that if you have a 4" stroke and are not using a Tall deck block, you could be pulling the pistons out of the bottom of the cylinders past the guage point, causing them to rock and resulting in piston wear which eventually will cause oil consumtion and worse over time. I have not researched this thoroughly but I believe the source of the info.

The video here: Go to 8:45 and Tom from Nelson Racing Engines explains.

[WVracer]

Sounds like the rings aren't seating, or the ring gaps weren't offset. It could also be to big of a crank for the motor. Some of the companies out there resleeve the block to accommodate the larger crank, to short of a sleeve can also cause some pretty bad piston slap.

After every rebuild I've seen or done, the engine always burns oil for the first couple miles or so until the rings seat to the cylinder.