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Old 10-18-2015, 08:19 PM   #15
blake-b


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad's ZL1 View Post
This works with a stick shift as well?
Yes.
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Old 10-18-2015, 08:47 PM   #16
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You can also do what I have. CFD made my shifter for the Automatic paddles and I had him put my line lock switch below the paddle switch. Works great and just feels natural.....


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Old 10-18-2015, 10:38 PM   #17
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Try this at your own risk

Mine is an M6 and I used the Hurst and an ABS fuse bypass relay. It's wired so the ABS fuse slot gets power (just like it normally operates) until you engage the line lock switch. When you engage the line lock switch to engage the brake solenoid, it also powers the relay and cuts power to the ABS switch until the line lock switch is released. There is a thread that tells how to wire it. Pretty simple. I used a small hand-held remote starter switch from Autozone and wired it thru a firewall opening. This way the line lock and ABS are functional all the time. Great for stoplights at hills too. All the wiring uses quick disconnects so it can be removed in 10 mins and replaced in 20 mins if necessary.

To do a run, hold mode button 3 down to shut of nannys (slowest 8 second ever), drive around the water box, back up and wet the tires, pull forward (I use 2nd gear) out of the water box, push the brake pedal and engage the lock switch, release the brake, release the clutch and hit the gas, then release the line lock button and roll out when you feel the need. Stabilitrak immediately resets unless you engage the line lock again while rolling (don't do that!). Then hit mode button 3 two times and the set it for mode 5 or whatever mode you want to run - just like always. It takes a bit of practice to do it without looking.

This is different than removing the ABS fuse. There is also a good thread on this method too. Removing the ABS fuse shuts off all the traction control, lights up the dash like christmas and cuts power steering by about half until the fuse is replaced. This is a great no-tune way to run DRs or slicks because it shuts off the ABS sensors and prevents the computer from reducing power when it hooks hard - the good kind of hook, not a dead hook. This is one reason why you see stock tune M6 ZL1s nose dive after a hard hook on DRs or slicks at about 40-50 ft out. The 8 second method does not shut down all the traction nannys, the ABS fuse pull does. Don't do this with street tires because even on a good track the tires break loose very quickly when you do the no-lift shift to 2nd and 3rd. After the race or if you don't like this method, just put the fuse back in the slot and everything goes back to normal.

Hope this answers your question.
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:21 AM   #18
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Part Number ???

What is the part number for your small hand-held remote starter switch from Autozone ??? Thank
Quote:
Originally Posted by trz174 View Post
Try this at your own risk

Mine is an M6 and I used the Hurst and an ABS fuse bypass relay. It's wired so the ABS fuse slot gets power (just like it normally operates) until you engage the line lock switch. When you engage the line lock switch to engage the brake solenoid, it also powers the relay and cuts power to the ABS switch until the line lock switch is released. There is a thread that tells how to wire it. Pretty simple. I used a small hand-held remote starter switch from Autozone and wired it thru a firewall opening. This way the line lock and ABS are functional all the time. Great for stoplights at hills too. All the wiring uses quick disconnects so it can be removed in 10 mins and replaced in 20 mins if necessary.

To do a run, hold mode button 3 down to shut of nannys (slowest 8 second ever), drive around the water box, back up and wet the tires, pull forward (I use 2nd gear) out of the water box, push the brake pedal and engage the lock switch, release the brake, release the clutch and hit the gas, then release the line lock button and roll out when you feel the need. Stabilitrak immediately resets unless you engage the line lock again while rolling (don't do that!). Then hit mode button 3 two times and the set it for mode 5 or whatever mode you want to run - just like always. It takes a bit of practice to do it without looking.

This is different than removing the ABS fuse. There is also a good thread on this method too. Removing the ABS fuse shuts off all the traction control, lights up the dash like christmas and cuts power steering by about half until the fuse is replaced. This is a great no-tune way to run DRs or slicks because it shuts off the ABS sensors and prevents the computer from reducing power when it hooks hard - the good kind of hook, not a dead hook. This is one reason why you see stock tune M6 ZL1s nose dive after a hard hook on DRs or slicks at about 40-50 ft out. The 8 second method does not shut down all the traction nannys, the ABS fuse pull does. Don't do this with street tires because even on a good track the tires break loose very quickly when you do the no-lift shift to 2nd and 3rd. After the race or if you don't like this method, just put the fuse back in the slot and everything goes back to normal.

Hope this answers your question.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:57 AM   #19
jayno20
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Anyone know if it is possible to use "hill assist" as a form of line lock? I've wondered about that for a while now... Would be kind of cool if you could.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:54 PM   #20
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good info here, I've been looking to do this as well.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:29 PM   #21
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Had my hurst LL installed today and it is throwing codes.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:58 PM   #22
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GM dealer couldn't get it to stop leaking.....$700 later plus cost of kit and its garbage !!! I would expect more from Hurst.
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:20 PM   #23
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Had my hurst LL installed today and it is throwing codes.
I have the hurst with 0 issues and NO codes
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:24 PM   #24
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Been running the same hurst roll control unit in my drag car since 1993, never had one issue, never had to service it or anything. Great stuff.
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:38 PM   #25
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I have the SJM and use the Switch-Link. Both SJM and Switch-Link are still around. Switch-Link's website was getting rebuilt so a lot of people thought he went out of business. A quick google search and you're good to go. I've been happy with mine and one of these days i'll get around to building a relay setup to bypass those fuses when I arm the system. I'm lazy that way.
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:48 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97ChameleonTA View Post
I have the SJM and use the Switch-Link. Both SJM and Switch-Link are still around. Switch-Link's website was getting rebuilt so a lot of people thought he went out of business. A quick google search and you're good to go. I've been happy with mine and one of these days i'll get around to building a relay setup to bypass those fuses when I arm the system. I'm lazy that way.
Relay wiring to reset stabilitrak after burnout

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Old 06-23-2018, 03:28 PM   #27
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I have SJM with switch link. It only occasionally gives me a stabiltrak message. I just do the run, doesn’t bother me. Then shut down and it is cleared when I turn it back on. I do sometimes have issues with the line lock holding though
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Old 06-25-2018, 11:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinpin View Post
I would like to put in a line lock for my 2014 ZL1 .. Which one works best ?
and how do you stop the computer from going nuts and setting off codes for the stability track system ?

The Hurst Line/Loc System is exactly what you're looking for! We offer a complete, all-in-one line lock system for the 2011-2015 Camaro (all models). Our Line/Loc (part# 5671518) is a direct fit system that includes all hardware (including pre-bent stainless steel hard lines) to easily install on your Fifth Gen. I have included a few links below to the product, a short YouTube clip and also a link to the installation instructions so you can see how we recommend to turn off the traction control system to perform your burnout (see page 6 & 7). If you have any questions about this product or any of the other performance products that we offer please give us a call at 707-544-4761.




- Jason @ Hurst
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