Any Tips - first run at polishing tomorrow

[trashmanssd]

Ipa after compounding or polishing can help to remove oils or fillers left from the product to see if you truly removed the swirls or scratches or what ever you are correcting. Also there is some research that Ipa can soften the clear coat temporarily and the recommendations I have seen from the pro's are usually 10-20 percent Alcohol in the final mix. You can also buy premade wipedown products that are meant to clear away the same stuff but contain some lucubration so you dont just make new marks.

[scandata]

So is there a reliable way to remove prior LSPs before polishing? Do any of the methods mentioned (Dawn, IPA, etc.) remove at least some of the old sealant, or is it best to just wash and get straight to the polishing?

[BeastMode]

Detailing day ended up being a bit of a flop. I was all ready to go and start polishing at 7am, then the individual who was going to help me out and lend me the tools/supplies didn't show up until 10 since he was hung over. At that point I had about an hour of working time with the polisher before it was too warm out and working was fruitless (no shade in the parking lot within reach of an outlet). In that time I got about half the hood done, and came to accept that I need a heavier duty polish/pad combo - I was able to get 75% of the swirls off the hood, but it took forever to do even that. Friend claimed it would be sufficient, but I now realize his definition of a clean finish is much different than mine.

Since I won't be able to revisit it for another couple weeks, I moved to some shade and applied a coat of wax to the car.

Game plan now...order up my own 7424 and all my own supplies, so I can work on this when I want to and not be relying on someone else.

[BeastMode]

On the other hand, thanks for the info everyone! I'll be sure to keep these in mind next time I give this a go!

[trashmanssd]

If you are getting a machine I would recommend a Groit's GG6 as a starter machine. It has more power and a great warranty (basically lifetime if you dont do something stupid to break it) for few extra dollars it is a noticeably better machine. Also you can try a pad with a bit more cut first with 205 to see if it gets you where you want. Autogeek and Autotopia are great forums for detailing info, I like Autotopia better as they allow you to discuss products they dont even sell on there forum as most others dont.

[scandata]

Originally Posted by BeastMode

I now realize his definition of a clean finish is much different than mine.

Game plan now...order up my own 7424 and all my own supplies, so I can work on this when I want to and not be relying on someone else.

If you're as detail-oriented as the rest of us (and it sounds like you are), you would have been ordering your own gear soon enough anyway. It's a great level of satisfaction to know there are things you can do whenever you feel like it while others have to go to a detailing shop for and pay a hefty sum to have the work done.

[BeastMode]

Originally Posted by scandata

If you're as detail-oriented as the rest of us (and it sounds like you are), you would have been ordering your own gear soon enough anyway. It's a great level of satisfaction to know there are things you can do whenever you feel like it while others have to go to a detailing shop for and pay a hefty sum to have the work done.

Yeah looking forward to everything coming in!

Ordered a 7424xp, 2 orange pads, 2 white pads, 2 other pads for applying waxes/sealants, mezerna swirl finder light, m105/205, and a pad cleaning tool, all courtesy of autogeek. They had a 20% off sale running through last night for father's day, so even got a decent deal on all of it.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

I do find it hard to believe that Larry Kosilla, who does all his own compounding for his line of products, his wife is also a chemist I believe, would advocate it's use as explained here at the 5:00 point of this video.



Also mentioned at the 7:42 point of this video of the Kevin Brown method, with Kevin Brown.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=10&v=QG65GC5LOzw
KB has been doing paint correction for 30 years now, and it's hard to believe he would do an "unnecessary" step.

LK also uses lexol for the interior and fairly non-plush mfs on paint in his earlier videos, when there's much better tools and products available. I wouldn't advise doing either of those either.

Again, it's great to emulate and follow whoever's way of thinking you want to. But before you tell others to, do the tests yourself. Test one spot with the IPA wipe, and one spot without the IPA wipe and if there is a difference to you, then go for it.

Also to test IPA for lsp removal is easy, Tape a recently waxed/sealed hood or panel in three, (so two tape lines). One of the sections, go ahead and polish with a white pad and a paint cleaner that leaves nothing behind (DP detailer's coating prep is what I use, duragloss squeaky clean is another). IPA wipedown one of the two waxed sections. The polished one should be the control and the other waxed one is the one that hasn't been touched and is the baseline. When hit with water for beading and sheeting action, if the IPA'd section is not exactly like the control, then it means that IPA can remove some, but will not remove all the wax or lsp. In my testing the IPA'd section was exactly as the non-IPA'd wax section, which tells me IPA had no noticeable effect on the wax I used (bf midnight sun).

Anyways, if you want more info, start a thread or PM me because we are really going off topic on the poor OP's thread lol

Originally Posted by scandata

So is there a reliable way to remove prior LSPs before polishing? Do any of the methods mentioned (Dawn, IPA, etc.) remove at least some of the old sealant, or is it best to just wash and get straight to the polishing?

Polishing with a paint cleanser or abrasive is the only way for 100% lsp removal that I have tested. The methods mentioned do remove some LSP, but not necessarily all. In my opinion and testing, as long as you have 4 pads or more for each step (which you should), just wash normally, iron x, clay, and go straight to polishing. Keep it simple.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by trashmanssd

Ipa after compounding or polishing can help to remove oils or fillers left from the product to see if you truly removed the swirls or scratches or what ever you are correcting. Also there is some research that Ipa can soften the clear coat temporarily and the recommendations I have seen from the pro's are usually 10-20 percent Alcohol in the final mix. You can also buy premade wipedown products that are meant to clear away the same stuff but contain some lucubration so you dont just make new marks.

we are talking before compounding to remove LSP. I agree 100% with what you have said for AFTER compounding or during it.

[scandata]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

Polishing with a paint cleanser or abrasive is the only way for 100% lsp removal that I have tested. The methods mentioned do remove some LSP, but not necessarily all. In my opinion and testing, as long as you have 4 pads or more for each step (which you should), just wash normally, iron x, clay, and go straight to polishing. Keep it simple.

Thanks, that will save me a little time next go-round.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

LK also uses lexol for the interior and fairly non-plush mfs on paint in his earlier videos, when there's much better tools and products available. I wouldn't advise doing either of those either.

Again, it's great to emulate and follow whoever's way of thinking you want to. But before you tell others to, do the tests yourself. Test one spot with the IPA wipe, and one spot without the IPA wipe and if there is a difference to you, then go for it.

Also to test IPA for lsp removal is easy, Tape a recently waxed/sealed hood or panel in three, (so two tape lines). One of the sections, go ahead and polish with a white pad and a paint cleaner that leaves nothing behind (DP detailer's coating prep is what I use, duragloss squeaky clean is another). IPA wipedown one of the two waxed sections. The polished one should be the control and the other waxed one is the one that hasn't been touched and is the baseline. When hit with water for beading and sheeting action, if the IPA'd section is not exactly like the control, then it means that IPA can remove some, but will not remove all the wax or lsp. In my testing the IPA'd section was exactly as the non-IPA'd wax section, which tells me IPA had no noticeable effect on the wax I used (bf midnight sun).

Anyways, if you want more info, start a thread or PM me because we are really going off topic on the poor OP's thread lol




Polishing with a paint cleanser or abrasive is the only way for 100% lsp removal that I have tested. The methods mentioned do remove some LSP, but not necessarily all. In my opinion and testing, as long as you have 4 pads or more for each step (which you should), just wash normally, iron x, clay, and go straight to polishing. Keep it simple.

Sorry but I'm offering advice based on what Kevin Brown, a detailer of 30 years who is considered one of the most knowledgeable in the world, does. I guess I don't feel the need to question his advice, as I know I'm not smarter than 30 years of experience.


This is exactly what LK does in this video. He puts wax on a panel, shows the difference with the Brinkman, then uses 50/50 IPA to remove the wax, and then shows the panel that was waxed after the IPA which now shows all the swirls again in their original condition.

In his diagram he shows the only wax left is what's in the bottom of the deeper defects.

I do not feel it is off topic to discuss this here, as it does pertain to the OP's "correction routine". I will just agree to disagree.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Sorry but I'm offering advice based on what Kevin Brown, a detailer of 30 years who is considered one of the most knowledgeable in the world, does. I guess I don't feel the need to question his advice, as I know I'm not smarter than 30 years of experience.


This is exactly what LK does in this video. He puts wax on a panel, shows the difference with the Brinkman, then uses 50/50 IPA to remove the wax, and then shows the panel that was waxed after the IPA which now shows all the swirls again in their original condition.

In his diagram he shows the only wax left is what's in the bottom of the deeper defects.

I do not feel it is off topic to discuss this here, as it does pertain to the OP's "correction routine". I will just agree to disagree.

Actually it doesn't seem like he doesn't go back to the original paint where he sprayed the IPA. If he did, I feel like you would've seen a vertical tape line. I have made quite a few videos with tape line. The residue doesn't come off super easy, and IPA and a non-plush mf doesn't usually cut it to remove the residue without some hard scrubbing, let alone how softly he wipes the paint.

Also, what I said and what he did are not the same. There's a control, but no baseline. He doesn't show beading and sheeting on three different portions, so how can he prove that the wax is only barely there? He can't.

And let's not mention the fact that you should never use 50/50 IPA, according to Mike Phillips and his chemists. So.... who to agree with? http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...n-results.html

The main thing here is to do the tests yourself to find out things first hand.

In my testing, IPA neither strips wax, nor does it improve performance of a buffer prior to compounding. For that application it is a waste of time and unnecessary. I can back up my statements with my own testing and if you come to me, I'd be happy to do the tests again with you by my side to prove my point.

[JTruck]

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

Actually it doesn't seem like he doesn't go back to the original paint where he sprayed the IPA. If he did, I feel like you would've seen a vertical tape line. I have made quite a few videos with tape line. The residue doesn't come off super easy, and IPA and a non-plush mf doesn't usually cut it to remove the residue without some hard scrubbing, let alone how softly he wipes the paint.

Also, what I said and what he did are not the same. There's a control, but no baseline. He doesn't show beading and sheeting on three different portions, so how can he prove that the wax is only barely there? He can't.

And let's not mention the fact that you should never use 50/50 IPA, according to Mike Phillips and his chemists. So.... who to agree with? http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...n-results.html

The main thing here is to do the tests yourself to find out things first hand.

In my testing, IPA neither strips wax, nor does it improve performance of a buffer prior to compounding. For that application it is a waste of time and unnecessary. I can back up my statements with my own testing and if you come to me, I'd be happy to do the tests again with you by my side to prove my point.

Roshan, you know I trust your judgement. By the same token, if someone with the stature of Kevin Brown advocates a process involved in detailing, it's difficult to dismiss it as useless.

That being said, not as JTruck would like to make it out, this is not an arguement, but rather a discussion amongst friends involving a detailing process. I have e-mailed Kevin to get his feedback and hope to get a response, not in effort to "win" a discussion, but just to find out what his reasoning and experience are with IPA. I'll post if he replies. Kevin is so "specifics" oriented, and surely does the IPA for a reason.

Knowing which one provides the best way to "prep" the surface would be of benefit to all of us who detail on this site. Again I make no intention to impune your tests. Only to get insight from Kevin's reasoning for usage of IPA.