03-25-2017, 04:31 AM | #15 | ||
Drives: 2012 1LT Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Denver, PA
Posts: 450
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The foam and microfiber pads are cleaned by hand. I'll first run clear water on/over/in/through them and squeeze out the excess until the water runs out clean. I then saturate them with an All Purpose Cleaner, work it through the pad and let in dwell in the pad for a few minutes, then rinse them out. To dry I leave them sit in a kitchen dish strainer. Don't put them away in tight bags, if they're not completely dry they'll mold, and/or rot.
The "toothbrush" type of a brush you're referring to is called a Pad Conditioning Brush and used to keep the microfiber pad surface clean of dried polish build up as you work, and to bring the microfiber nap back up. Scroll to 3:30 in the below video to see Adam talk about the Pad Conditioning Brush.
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03-25-2017, 06:31 PM | #16 | |||
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Quote:
Clean the pad every section or two, with a brush, compressed air, or a terry towel. When you notice your results diminish after cleaning it, switch to a fresh pad. The most important thing is how you care for your paint after you correct it. A daily driver is going to get some marring on it over time, most of which occurs while washing/drying. You can minimize this by using good washing habits. You'll still have to use finishing polish every 6-12 months, but compound won't be needed to remove light wash marring. Here's a good video explaining how to wash the car to minimize marring, and also one on how to do the pooling rinse after you rinse the soap off your car.
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Roto-Fab intake, SW 1 7/8" LT w/hi flow cats, Flowmaster outlaw exhaust, UDP, 160* stat, Circle D 3200, Moroso catch can, TCI line lock, Zex Nitrous 125 shot, 3.91 gear, Eaton True-trac, DSS 1000hp axles. |
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