Slow starting cars

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by George-CZ

Nice exhaust sound.

Thanks, that's 1 7/8 headers and high flow cats, the rest is stock.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ

I’m sorry if I confused this thread with your vendor thread. I thought this was a Z28 thread about slow starting cars. I am just trying to help folks out to troubleshoot and if it leads to your cables, so be it. If it leads to them just needing to clean some connection bolts/nuts, so be it. I’m not trying to sell anything but just to help educate about ohms law and how relevant it is to this issue and my share my many years of past troubleshooting experience. Again, I’m not trying to prove or disprove your product(s) that your selling on this thread. I’m sure your videos will be very helpful and many folks will buy your products which will fix their problems. Someday I might even do the same. I just will make sure I troubleshoot it first so I know I’m replacing a defective part.

Thank you

Its all good, any help is appreciated to fix the slow starting cars, all i was saying was IMO your test only tested the short GM ground cable, witch needs to be tested, but when i said it was a bad design i meant that the rubber cover on the body side does not make for a good ground for the car.

[69L48Z27]

If your connection points are all in the factory locations, why wouldn’t you replace the entire cable with a larger gauge in a factory looking configuration?

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by 69L48Z27

If your connection points are all in the factory locations, why wouldn’t you replace the entire cable with a larger gauge in a factory looking configuration?

Wiring is expensive and especially once the gauge increases plus if you run the ground through the body then all grounds can just tie to the body. But, these must be maintained in the manner of what I prefer, wire brush and dielectric grease. In my experience chasing gremlins around ah-64 systems, I found ~85% of issues where caused from poor contacts or connections. The trick was to find where to track down those poor connections. That is why I use the resistance troubleshooting on “cold” circuits. Voltage drop and current testing is also possible and has its place as well.
Sometimes just removing and reinstalling a bolt will produce a good contact again thus causing a placebo affect of thinking whatever part that was replaced actually fixed the issue when in fact it was just the connection that fixed it.
I digress and apologize for the long rants.

Are you having starting issues?

[69L48Z27]

Starting issues, not really. Over this last summer the car sat for awhile without a charger and it spun over a little slow that day. After a drive it was fine. I’ve had a trickle charger on it since Dec 1st and I started the car last weekend and it was perfectly fine.

I would imagine these cars are going to start needing new batteries soon. Not sure if they’re AGM or flooded.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by 69L48Z27

Starting issues, not really. Over this last summer the car sat for awhile without a charger and it spun over a little slow that day. After a drive it was fine. I’ve had a trickle charger on it since Dec 1st and I started the car last weekend and it was perfectly fine.

I would imagine these cars are going to start needing new batteries soon. Not sure if they’re AGM or flooded.

Not AGM

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Not AGM

I’m interested why you say not AGM.
They do call for AGM

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ

I’m interested why you say not AGM.
They do call for AGM

My reply meant they don’t come from the factory with AGM. But yes they’re preferable. I put one in mine.

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by camguynj

My reply meant they don’t come from the factory with AGM. But yes they’re preferable. I put one in mine.

Oh, ok. I misunderstood. My 14’s came with AGM from dealer so maybe that changed in later years. I don’t know if they had AGM from the assembly line. But the Z28 had the smaller(lighter) battery than the rest had.

I changed my comment from “factory” to “dealer”.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ

Oh, ok. I misunderstood. My 14’s came with AGM from dealer so maybe that changed in later years. I don’t know if they had AGM from the assembly line. But the Z28 had the smaller(lighter) battery than the rest had.

I changed my comment from “factory” to “dealer”.

I really don’t know what battery Z/28 come with. They’re a different bread. I was referring to all other models

[ariZona28]

Here is a couple of pics of my original battery that still resides in my Z/28. It appears to be a "flooded" type. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[FLOW TIE]

Mine’s original from Oct 2014 and still going.
(It does crank slow after sitting for a week or 2)

Just ordered 3 battery to ground wires from gen5 DIY.
Going to install in mine and 2 other Zs here in DFW.

Will report back.

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

Here is a couple of pics of my original battery that still resides in my Z/28. It appears to be a "flooded" type. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

It is flooded. Thanks for correcting me.

[joelster]

Factory Z has a vent on the battery