Searching For Traction!!!

[K1SSRSS]

Let me preface this, I have done quite a bit of research and Apex's thread on curing wheel hop is very informative, but I keep finding myself confused with all the options.

First off I am currently sitting close to 500hp and plan on going FI and pushing it to the 600-650ish range, I am obviously searching for 1/4 mile traction, but want to retain at least factory handling and decent street ability.

I plan on dropping my rear carrier soon so I would like to get everything lined out and install it all at once and need ideas and opinions on what specific parts have worked for you all.

What I currently have Installed:
BMR Lower Control Arms - Worked great at controlling wheel hop by themselves up to about 400RWHP

What I will have ready to install when carrier is dropped:
3:91 gears
BMR Differential Bushings - Stock bushing were torn?
Eaton Truetrac
1000hp axles

What I assume I need:
Carrier Bushings - planning on full poly bushings of some sort
Toe rods - have no idea on what options to go with
Upper Control Arms???

Is there anything I'm missing other than the obvious drag radials any help is greatly appreciated, as I know traction is already my limiting factor and will be even more so when I step up in HP.

[Dexman1349]

Suggestions:
-Solid subframe bushings. If you have the cash, go with the Detroit Speed revolvers. That will eliminate any subframe movement and the car will track straight under hard acceleration. With the cradle down, this is the best time to do it.
-No need to replace the UCA's, just the bushings. JDP has some pre-pressed that are very good.
-Trailing arms. I have the Spohn, but I wouldn't recommend them unless you know how to adjust them. Long story short, it took a trip to JDP in Utah to get them figured out. Make sure you replace the outer bushings at the same time.
-Springs/coilovers. Upgrading to a progressive spring (anything aftermarket or even a set of stock ZL1's) instead of the soft SS springs will help a ton.
-Sway bars & endlinks. This won't help much for drag racing, but will make the car handle a ton better in the corners.
-Toe rods. A set of 1LE/ZL1 toe rods are IMO the best bang for the buck. The arms themselves are identical to the SS's, but they come with better bushings.

The differential bushings aren't worth it unless your stock ones are broke. When combined with the rest of the stiffer suspension, the diff bushings create a fair amount more NVH. I had done all of the above with little/no NVH, but once the diff bushings went on things got louder. You get used to it, but it can get annoying when you can't turn up the radio and are stuck cruising at 65 on the highway.

[K1SSRSS]

Thanks man, I hadn't even thought about springs yet. Lots of good info.

[hrpiii]

Dexman got you all hooked up. I agree and do pretty good with what I have on the track. Pedders Subframe bushing, BMR toe rods, Pfadt trailing arms, Pfadt drop springs, Pfadt sways and end-links.

[JDP Sales]

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

Suggestions:
-Solid subframe bushings. If you have the cash, go with the Detroit Speed revolvers. That will eliminate any subframe movement and the car will track straight under hard acceleration. With the cradle down, this is the best time to do it.
-No need to replace the UCA's, just the bushings. JDP has some pre-pressed that are very good.
-Trailing arms. I have the Spohn, but I wouldn't recommend them unless you know how to adjust them. Long story short, it took a trip to JDP in Utah to get them figured out. Make sure you replace the outer bushings at the same time.
-Springs/coilovers. Upgrading to a progressive spring (anything aftermarket or even a set of stock ZL1's) instead of the soft SS springs will help a ton.
-Sway bars & endlinks. This won't help much for drag racing, but will make the car handle a ton better in the corners.
-Toe rods. A set of 1LE/ZL1 toe rods are IMO the best bang for the buck. The arms themselves are identical to the SS's, but they come with better bushings.

The differential bushings aren't worth it unless your stock ones are broke. When combined with the rest of the stiffer suspension, the diff bushings create a fair amount more NVH. I had done all of the above with little/no NVH, but once the diff bushings went on things got louder. You get used to it, but it can get annoying when you can't turn up the radio and are stuck cruising at 65 on the highway.

Good post!

The only thing I'll hit on above that is I would recommend a stiff rear spring in the rear, if-not coilovers. The goal is to prevent squat on launch, as when the car squats, you'll gain negative camber and toe in; basically scrubbing your traction away.

I'd also go with some adjustable toe links so you have more alignment adjustability. Hopefully, you also have the adjustable version of BMR's LCA's.

A stiff rear sway bar can also help the IRS act more like a solid axle car. Keeping both wheels working together also helps keep things planted.

Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

[K1SSRSS]

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Good post!

The only thing I'll hit on above that is I would recommend a stiff rear spring in the rear, if-not coilovers. The goal is to prevent squat on launch, as when the car squats, you'll gain negative camber and toe in; basically scrubbing your traction away.

I'd also go with some adjustable toe links so you have more alignment adjustability. Hopefully, you also have the adjustable version of BMR's LCA's.

A stiff rear sway bar can also help the IRS act more like a solid axle car. Keeping both wheels working together also helps keep things planted.

Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Unfortunately, I did not use the adjustable lca's, how pertinent is it that I swap over to the adjustable? If it is big enough of a difference, I don't have a problem pulling these off and selling them.

Thanks

[camarossdusk]

im pushing 720 rwhp went with pro version cradle bushings, the upper control arm mounts, bmr trailing arms, and toe rods, this really helped me with the bad wheel hop was getting, looking into bmr, talk to keith, jdp tyler also helped a lot too with understanding everything involved with what helps to cure wheel hop.

[JDP Sales]

Originally Posted by K1SSRSS

Unfortunately, I did not use the adjustable lca's, how pertinent is it that I swap over to the adjustable? If it is big enough of a difference, I don't have a problem pulling these off and selling them.

Thanks

Mostly just for the alignment adjustability after lowering. As you lower an IRS car, you'll gain negative camber and toe in. You do have some adjustment with the factory eccentrics, but not enough to get to 0 camber, which is what I recommend for drag racing; get the tire as flat as possible for the best contact patch.

So in short, I would recommend going adjustable if lowering. BMR also offers a non-adjustable option for lowered cars, but I'd pony up the extra funds for the fully adjustable arms if it were me.

Originally Posted by camarossdusk

im pushing 720 rwhp went with pro version cradle bushings, the upper control arm mounts, bmr trailing arms, and toe rods, this really helped me with the bad wheel hop was getting, looking into bmr, talk to keith, jdp tyler also helped a lot too with understanding everything involved with what helps to cure wheel hop.

Glad we could get you setup. Thanks for the support!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007