Toe specs keep changing

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by camarosspower

Makes sense. I shook the car side to side and I hear a clunking sound. I just need someone to see what that noise is. Maybe that's the problem hopefully

Hearing a clunk or noise is no good. Your right saying that may be the problem. Maybe a bushing is not withing spec? A defect?

[camarosspower]

Not a defect but as 2012ls3vert said maybe the solid cradle bushings brought out the weakest link in my suspension out.

[Black_SS10]

The weakest link could be a defective bushing that the solid subframe bushings are making apparent. Also what kind of bushings do your toe links have? The look red in the pictures you posted. Could these bushings be the culprit?

Like always just thinking/brainstorming.

[camarosspower]

I really don't know. These were installed at jannetty racing so whatever he uses

[JOHNSONROD]

all my diff bushings looked like this. i have a 2011.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by camarosspower

Moving the subframe won't move the alignment unless you remove the shock bolts from what I understand. 2012ls3vert isn't that too much camber for just 1/4 mile runs or roll racing? I don't really take hard turns in it anymore, especially won't do road course with the th400

It will change what is called thrust. Always strive to get the thrust angle to 0 degrees

[camarosspower]

Turns out I had some lug nuts in the trunk. That was the noise. So back to the drawing board. I'm thinking it's the differential bushings that can't keep up anymore. The rear only steers under full throttle. If my car was a m6 and dyno was a dynojet I'm pretty sure I'd be around 750-800whp

[KillboyPowerhead]

Did you tighten and mark the toe link eccentrics to see if they're moving?

[camarosspower]

Yes I did.

[Rob@WretchedMS]

Diff Bushings won't affect the what it feels like you have.

If it didn't feel that way before the subframe bushings were installed, but it does since, there is something going on with them likely.

Do the marker around the bushing where it mounts to the body, see if the bushing/cradle is moving in relation to the unibody.

2012LS3VERT i've never installed your bushings, are you supposed to install them with the metal retainer plates that are on the OEM bushings?

[2012LS3VERT]

A little history: We were contracted to produce the Pfadt solid subframe bushings for Apex Motorsports, who had permission to use the design. When Pfadt was bought by AFE, Apex no longer needed them. To account for our costs in development (we had to start from reverse engineering a existing set, we were not given models or drawings), We decided to produce our own. We changed the design to allow for a reduction in weight, and a significant cost savings that we pass onto our customers. The functionality and critical dimensions have not changed. I say that to say that there have been thousands of sets with these same dimensions and materials sold and installed without issue, so I don't think it is the bushings themselves or a design issue, and the install based on the pictures and discussion with the customer sounds like it was done correctly. I do want to help the customer figure this out. I believe that the stock mounts were likely masking another issue.
Our bushings do not require that the retainers be reused, our design sandwiches the frame tightly, and the lower bushing acts as the retainer.

[Rob@WretchedMS]

Good to know, hope you didn't take anything I said as an attack at your product, i'm sure it's great.

In the pictures that showed the bolts, it appeared that the bolts may have shifted, but it's hard to know because they have been removed a time or two.



And if you look at this picture you can see the weird markings where the bushing meets the unibody(right forward). This pattern doesn't appear on the other bushings, and leads me to think that this could be the source of the problems.

[2012LS3VERT]

I did not take it as an attack, I was only trying to explain that there are so very many functionally identical all over the world without issues, which steers me in the direction of another issue not related to the subframe bushings.

The generally do not sit in the exact center of any of the bushings. The holes are actually quite a bit larger than the bolts to allow for the production tolerances of the subframe, which are rather loose due to the stock bushings being rubber and being able to move around to align the bolts with the holes. This means the bolts align where they may, and the alignment pins on the car side dictate the subframe alignment. This is actually true in regards to the stock bushings, they holes are close to 18mm for a M14 bolt. There is some room for movement, maybe 1/8" or so, if the bolts aren't tight. This is why I stress the torque value for the bolts, and loctite for those that need a little extra insurance.

He states that the alignment hasn't moved significantly since tightening the bolts. If the subframe was to move, it should show in a difference in rear toe on left and right sides individually while total toe would stay the same, unless it just happened to settle back in on the same location.

[camarosspower]

Originally Posted by JOHNSONROD

all my diff bushings looked like this. i have a 2011.

Do you have a issue with the differential bushings or are they fine just like that? How much power are you pushing?