Uneven Brake Pad Wear

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by sdynak

You really should lube them for the long run.. early on not a big deal but the heat and weather will get to them and why things like this happen.. I would use a brake specific grease. They are typically synthetic and rated for the heat. No rush if you just did it.. More happens over time. Very common to be forgotten.

Alright, cool. This will probably nag at me until I do it.

Thanks man!

[sdynak]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Alright, cool. This will probably nag at me until I do it.

Thanks man!

You're fine and on it.. don't worry not like leaving oil out of the motor

[Avenging Orange]

Inner pads always wear more....at least on all my vehicles.

[CamaroFred]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

Alright. That's a good idea as well. I'll lubricate the pins sufficiently on the new pin kit I'm about to order for the new 6-piston CTS-V Brembos.

The Brembos are fixed and do not slide on the pins.
Only calipers with one piston slide on the pins.
I would suggest checking your wheel bearings or the rotor for warp.
Came down heavy but it was the finals so the coaches wouldn't call it.

[StlRomAniaN]

Originally Posted by CamaroFred

The Brembos are fixed and do not slide on the pins.
Only calipers with one piston slide on the pins.

Referring to the pads sliding on the pins, not the caliper.


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[StlRomAniaN]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

Inner pads always wear more....at least on all my vehicles.

I know this, but the inner pads compared to each other on each front corner are significantly different to each other (not compared to the other pads).


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[sdynak]

Originally Posted by CamaroFred

The Brembos are fixed and do not slide on the pins.
Only calipers with one piston slide on the pins.
I would suggest checking your wheel bearings or the rotor for warp.

Absolutely agree.. with floating setups it is essentially mandatory to lube the sliders.. with the pins it may have some slight build up and maybe just needs cleaning & light lube to prevent it any hang up through the pads. Good place to start & ck.

[StlRomAniaN]

Originally Posted by sdynak

Absolutely agree.. with floating setups it is essentially mandatory to lube the sliders.. with the pins it may have some slight build up and maybe just needs cleaning & light lube to prevent it any hang up through the pads. Good place to start & ck.

Thanks. I can do that.

Could it possibly be a seal issue on the pistons? The pad isn't worn in a tapered fashion so I think it'd be quite the coincidence if it was a piston issue (both inner pistons shot).


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[CamaroFred]

I have warped rotors faster than you can say a four letter word.

R&R.

[sdynak]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

Thanks. I can do that.

Could it possibly be a seal issue on the pistons? The pad isn't worn in a tapered fashion so I think it'd be quite the coincidence if it was a piston issue (both inner pistons shot).


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Honestly.. as others have mentioned there are several possibilities.. Maybe put up both front wheels and have someone apply & release the brakes to see if you really notice a difference. You can always swap the rotor in this state also to see if there are any warped conditions as CamaroFred is thinking. You would expect that to follow. Last you can also to ensure there is no residual pressure after release to crack the bleeder on that side.. If that was any cause then the wheel would free up.. Few things to think about to get you rolling

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by CamaroFred

I have warped rotors faster than you can say a four letter word.

R&R.

This is what worries me on the bedding process. Bedding-in causes incredible temps, very quickly. I worry about warping my brand new rotors during bed-in.

[CamaroFred]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

This is what worries me on the bedding process. Bedding-in causes incredible temps, very quickly. I worry about warping my brand new rotors during bed-in.

Bedding in, if done correctly, should not create incredibly high temperatures.

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

This is what worries me on the bedding process. Bedding-in causes incredible temps, very quickly. I worry about warping my brand new rotors during bed-in.

First time I did brake bedding I was pretty nervous, don't worry about it. Just be sure to drive around to let the brakes cool down for a good bit of time. Not sure how long, but I would say at least 10-15 miles of straight, continuous driving. You do not want to use the brakes after completing the last stop of your bedding process until they fully cool down. I like to hop onto the highway for that part or some lightly used back roads.

Oh and keep the windows down. You'll thank me if you haven't smelt hot brakes before lol

[christianchevell]

You may also want to switch out to some ceramics for less brake dust and better performance than organic semi metallic.