Hood Latch Wiring Help

[Phantom.5SS]

I think I am posting in the right place for this:

I recently installed a Revolutions Reverse Hood Kit, The factory latch is removed altogether.
Because of this the circut for the Alarm/ Remote start is not working because it is obviously disconnected.

Heres where it gets confusing: 3 wires on the latch (Black-Pink-Yellow),
only 2 wires on the Harness (Black-Pink).

The latch in the "Hood open position" shows a directional (Diode) signal thru my meter on the black and pink. (start disable and hood open signal)

In the "Hood Closed Position" it shows the same signal on the Black and Yellow of the latch connector (remote start works).
I unplug the connector and the remote start stops working?? Does the vehicle connector (as opposed to the latch connector) have a resistor in it to show a loop for the start circut?? Or does it provide a "Directional" or "Reverse" signal. As I said there is no yellow wire at the vehicle side of the connector?

Can I install a diode across the black and yellow (even though there is no wire in it) on the vehicle connector to false it into thinking it has a hood latch?

I would really like to have my remote start working again!

[Phantom.5SS]

Pics for clarification:

[techinny]

No matter how many times I read it, I can't wrap my head around it. Is the switch a "mechanical" switch or is it magnetic? With just two wires, you would think it is a simple open/closed system. Either unhooking them or hooking them together would make it work theoretically. When you have your meter on the latch, is there any resistance or direct connection, 0.00 ohms?

[techinny]

What does your meter say on the black and pink wires in the hood closed position?

[Phantom.5SS]

Its definatly diode protected as it only reads in one direction..on the 2000K setting I get 1440 across the yellow and black( hood open position)...there is 1540 across pink black (hood closed position).

Same readings with latch in open position.

Heres where it gets nuts: If I select the dry contact setting on my meter (BEEP), I get 1770 on black and pink (Hood Open) ...THEN 1770 on black-Yellow (hood closed-latched) but I never get the BEEP so I figure its a resistor value diode with the black wire being the "Common".

These are taken on the connector of the latch...removed from vehicle (not connected)

I also think it should be a simple dry contact closure, but seemingly the 3rd wire on the latch connector that ISNT on the harness is actually doing something.

Almost like a Single throw/double pole switch.
There is a mechanical limit switch at the latch where the 3 wires connect into. I am assumeing its changing the bias or the ohm value to control different functions.

[techinny]

A open/closed type switch would be too simple to bypass, or they just want to keep us on our toes. Is there any way you can remove the switch from the latch so you can keep it plugged in and in the hood closed position? Unfortunately when you start getting into resistors and diodes, that is a little deeper into electrical than my experience goes. I deal with electrical systems on heavy equipment at work regularly, but not that deep.

Don't have a picture of the latch and switch do you?

[Phantom.5SS]

Here we go....
The contact on the switch toggles the connection from Black+ Pink ...to Black+ Yellow
Its just that the yellow goes to nothing on the harness in the car?
Or at least I assume nothing...it could be resistor valued IN the harness connector...

[techinny]

Looks like there is a rivet that holds the switch to the bracket, as complicated as this seems to be, I am thinking that drilling the rivet and removing the switch is going to be the easiest way to go. I am guessing that closing the hood pushes on the arm of the switch, if so, tape it or tiewrap it and hide it some place.

[Phantom.5SS]

Originally Posted by techinny

Looks like there is a rivet that holds the switch to the bracket, as complicated as this seems to be, I am thinking that drilling the rivet and removing the switch is going to be the easiest way to go. I am guessing that closing the hood pushes on the arm of the switch, if so, tape it or tiewrap it and hide it some place.

I discovered that it actually stays in the OPEN position....even easier!!
I think I may do that Monday at the shop...I have a removal tool so I wont damage it....Then I can replace it if I go back to stock.

Its the Engineer in me that always goes for the "Definitive" answer...in the end though....the simple ways are the Best..LOL

[techinny]

Originally Posted by Phantom.5SS

I discovered that it actually stays in the OPEN position....even easier!!
I think I may do that Monday at the shop...I have a removal tool so I wont damage it....Then I can replace it if I go back to stock.

Its the Engineer in me that always goes for the "Definitive" answer...in the end though....the simple ways are the Best..LOL

I hear that, I usually spend more time chasing the "why" than fixing it, due to the fact I hate doing things twice.

[ngtmare]

Hi to you two can you dumb this down for a girl that did this install and would like to fix the auto start too? I did his to Onyx my 2010 in Feb and I want my Auto start back before winter, sadly the harness on the old hinge was damaged by a curious person in the garage durring install so I will need to find another one fast. but that is not a problem. I just need the fix to this put in girl terms. all the talk I just read above was making my brain leak.

[techinny]

Originally Posted by tonjahelm@yahoo.com

Hi to you two can you dumb this down for a girl that did this install and would like to fix the auto start too? I did his to Onyx my 2010 in Feb and I want my Auto start back before winter, sadly the harness on the old hinge was damaged by a curious person in the garage durring install so I will need to find another one fast. but that is not a problem. I just need the fix to this put in girl terms. all the talk I just read above was making my brain leak.

I just read back through all of our mumbo jumbo, if I read Phantom.5SS's last post, when the hood is closed, the switch is not depressed. So if you were to remove the existing switch or get a replacement switch, and the harness that was damaged, plug everything in like normal but tuck the switch out of the way so the arm on the switch is not depressed, you should be good to go.

Hope this helps, if not let us know, maybe Phantom.5SS will see this and elaborate.