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Old 12-13-2016, 06:10 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioSS View Post
My original spark plug wires are slightly hitting the headers on a couple of banks. I did install some sleeves. Will it be okay?

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If you have sleeves you should be fine. Mine did the same thing.

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Old 12-13-2016, 09:22 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by KGoddard View Post
If you have sleeves you should be fine. Mine did the same thing.

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I hope so
Thanks for the heads up

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Old 12-13-2016, 12:31 PM   #59
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I'm thinking about buying a pair on eBay.. this is my first time doing headers on a vehicle but i thought LT's delete the factory cats and connect to the exhaust where the cats originally were placed.. Why are some guys saying I need some extension if I don't want any cats? I know they say the smell is bad but its fine I just want LT's with no cats... Any help please?
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Old 12-13-2016, 01:13 PM   #60
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Just to update you guys, these headers fit like a glove with zero issues! I simply love them. The car sounds great! Except my rattling stock exhaust are driving me crazy. Can't wait till i get my GMPP mufflers.

Want to thank you all for steering me into the right direction.

I just hope my spark wires won't melt even tho i did put sleeves on them.

Looking forward to flash my Pat G tune tomorrow!

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Old 12-13-2016, 01:18 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUEGO View Post
I'm thinking about buying a pair on eBay.. this is my first time doing headers on a vehicle but i thought LT's delete the factory cats and connect to the exhaust where the cats originally were placed.. Why are some guys saying I need some extension if I don't want any cats? I know they say the smell is bad but its fine I just want LT's with no cats... Any help please?
If you want no cats then go with speed engineering headers. They do not include any cats, just make sure to get their connection pipes. The extension pipes are for people that doesn't want to install any kind of catalyst. So you can either choose to go with extension pipes or cats.

Lastly the cats or extension pipes are the parts needed to have the long tube headers connect to your exhaust system. Without any of these two you won't have a compete connection between your current exhaust and long tube headers

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Old 12-13-2016, 01:45 PM   #62
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I drove my SSR with long tube headers for almost a year no problems!!!
Ran rich but was fine besides that !!
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Old 12-13-2016, 01:50 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Scotty D2014 View Post
I drove my SSR with long tube headers for almost a year no problems!!!
Ran rich but was fine besides that !!


I got a buddy that swears its mandatory but I've heard multiple people say they personally had no problems... interesting
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Old 12-13-2016, 02:32 PM   #64
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I think its only "mandatory" if you want to take full advantage of the long tubes potential. Otherwise the tune is off and you will most likely have to deal with CEL...
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:19 PM   #65
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Doesn't the car run lean when running LTH without a tune?

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Old 12-13-2016, 05:40 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUEGO View Post
I'm thinking about buying a pair on eBay.. this is my first time doing headers on a vehicle but i thought LT's delete the factory cats and connect to the exhaust where the cats originally were placed.. Why are some guys saying I need some extension if I don't want any cats? I know they say the smell is bad but its fine I just want LT's with no cats... Any help please?
Go with Speed Engineering, they are the cheapest headers that are actually worth a crap. And yes, Longtubes delete the factory cats. But they don't go all the way back to the portion of piping that is after the cats. So the connection pipes you hear are the small piece of hollow piping that connects the end of the longtube to the rest of your catback set up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioSS View Post
Just to update you guys, these headers fit like a glove with zero issues! I simply love them. The car sounds great! Except my rattling stock exhaust are driving me crazy. Can't wait till i get my GMPP mufflers.

Want to thank you all for steering me into the right direction.

I just hope my spark wires won't melt even tho i did put sleeves on them.

Looking forward to flash my Pat G tune tomorrow!

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Glad everything went well for you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioSS View Post
Doesn't the car run lean when running LTH without a tune?

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It will run rich/lean without a tune if you're coming from stock manifolds. It won't harm too much I'm guessing but I know a tune is definitely recommended so the air/fuel ratio is correct. Also, a tune will turn off the rear o2 sensors, otherwise you will get a check engine light from that as well. I had shorty headers before I made the switch to longtubes. According to DynoSteve, there was no need for an update tune because the shorty and longtube tunes are pretty similar.
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:32 AM   #67
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Guys can i weld 2 bungs on the connection pipes to attach my rear O2's to? If so can you please illustrate where is the best position to do so?

Oh and if i want to have a bung for a AFR O2 where is the optimal position to do so?


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Old 12-28-2016, 05:57 PM   #68
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Guys can i weld 2 bungs on the connection pipes to attach my rear O2's to? If so can you please illustrate where is the best position to do so?

Oh and if i want to have a bung for a AFR O2 where is the optimal position to do so?


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How come you don't just delete the rear o2's? Unless you need them to pass visual inspections, I dont see why you wouldnt. And I thought the primary o2 bungs on the headers were for AFR?
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Old 12-29-2016, 01:01 AM   #69
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How come you don't just delete the rear o2's? Unless you need them to pass visual inspections, I dont see why you wouldnt. And I thought the primary o2 bungs on the headers were for AFR?
Sorry for not clarifying but i need an extra bung for a wideband sensor

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Old 01-24-2017, 07:57 PM   #70
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Just installed mine this weekend, I was seriously expecting zero issues after hearing so many say how easy it was, but I had a couple minor ones that turned an otherwise few-hour-long job into a whole weekend and a few extra expenses:

1) Two collectors touching spark plug wires, fixed with heat shield sleeves.

2) Original spark plug wires were extremely resistant to being pulled out, resulting in one of them being ruined. Arguably could be attributed to inexperience/impatience.

3) One collector was about a milimeter away from the boot on the steering column, so I had to wrap it. It was fully installed and I was doing final checks when I noticed, so wrapping it while installed was less than fun.

4) One A/F sensor was stuck, resulting in shredded threads while removing from stock manifold. I did it hot and even let it soak in PB Blaster overnight. It was reusable, but I had to break out the ol' tap and die set.

5) Minor one, but the little tabs they put in the o2 and A/F sensor wiring harnesses to prevent them from being unclipped are a pain in the ***, especially in tight spaces. I ended up just yanking them out with needlenose pliers.

6) Reinstalling the dipstick tube was a bit challenging, especially by myself.


None of it was too terrible, but definitely added time to my install, and I wanted to let everyone else know who is reading this and not a very experienced mechanic to just be aware of some things going into it so hopefully you can save yourself some time.

Otherwise, I'm very happy with the headers. They do sound raspier, especially without any cats, but I might have a muffler shop replace the offroad pipes with some high flow cats at some point.

The volume is perfect, IMHO. I have the NPP catback, and it's perfectly quiet while cruising around town and starting off slowly, no highway drone to speak of, but when when you downshift and lay into the throttle it opens up in a very big way.

These headers and a retune didn't seem to add any noticeable power, but I already had a CAI and a tune from Dynosteve that woke the car up pretty good before.

Overall I'd say I'm happy with them. The car definitely sounds the way I want it to now, but don't feel like I picked up much power beyond my previous setup.
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