10-29-2018, 12:12 PM | #1 |
Drives: 15 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Mountains of central PA
Posts: 1,442
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Gear question
Hi guys. Looking at doing gears on my 15 SS L99.
Curious what seems to be the best set of gears as far as noise and strength for these cars? Thanks for any help |
10-29-2018, 02:57 PM | #2 |
Angewendet Ingenieur
Drives: 14 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 401
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Need more information driving habits, mods, expectations... noise is another issue not related to gear size.
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10-29-2018, 05:58 PM | #3 | |
GPI Sales Consultant
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Quote:
Also agree, gear choice and noise aren't necessarily related. A well setup rear should be silent in OE bushings. When you go with aggressive bushings, and a reinforced diff cover you've given the noise a MUCH more direct path into the car, and some noise transmission into the cabin would be expected.
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10-29-2018, 05:59 PM | #4 |
Drives: 15 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Mountains of central PA
Posts: 1,442
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Mostly street, but a couple yearly visits to the track. Planning all motor, but may end up supercharging, so a little wishy washy there as of now. Have ran everything from 273 to 410s in the various cars I've owned in the past. Looking for probably a 390ish gear. Would prefer a GM gear if they make a set due to the fact they are generally a quieter gear set in my experience. This is my first 5th gen, but I've been around and have built more than a few cars in the past. Thanks
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10-29-2018, 06:07 PM | #5 | |
GPI Sales Consultant
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Quote:
3.91 is the usual go-to for the L99.
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10-29-2018, 09:33 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2ss/Rs Transformers Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Yorba Linda, California
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I would go with the oem 3.91’s. Went with those because they are factory and I knew there wouldn’t be any problems. I used to daily drive with FBO and gears and it was perfectly fine. Woke up the Auto trans
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10-30-2018, 01:26 PM | #7 |
Drives: 15 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Mountains of central PA
Posts: 1,442
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Thanks guys for the answers so far. So what seems to be the best way to improve strength with these? I see that the ZL1 conversion seems popular and the better priced option. Would just a few mods to the factory rear help gain strength for running in the say 550 rwhp range? I know anything can fail at any point and alot depends on the launch so this can be a tough question to accurately answer. Thanks
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10-30-2018, 01:31 PM | #8 |
"Old School"
Drives: 2010 2SS L99 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sherrills Ford, NC
Posts: 1,295
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If you are going to go forced induction like a supercharger, turbo charger or Nitrous just leave your gears alone unless you plan on staying Naturally Aspirated.
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10-30-2018, 07:56 PM | #9 | |
GPI Sales Consultant
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Quote:
Jannetty also makes some billet ring gear caps that are much stronger than the OE pieces - but for the money the LPW cover gives those stock caps plenty of support and girdles the rest of the diff as well. Only problem is getting LPW covers can be tricky, they go in and out of production every couple of years. They should be available right now, they were tooling up this summer to do a run of them. The other thing that really helps keep the rear end alive is making sure any wheel hop issues are eliminated. The biggest single contributor to wheel hop is the factory rubber rear sub frame bushings and differential bushings. They make inserts, solid poly, and full solid aluminum bushings for the rear sub frame - I'm a fan of the solids as it really firms up the whole back of the car and the driveline. I run fairly hard poly bushings in the differential. That combination, along with an LPW cover (which is directly physically connected to the gear set) can make for some gear noise if the rear end is not set up perfectly. Sort of the price you pay for bullet-proofing. Usually, the best way to ensure that the rear end stays alive is to not upgrade axles - those will usually break before the rear end gives. Consider them an expensive fuse to protect more expensive components. Fortunately, you have an auto, and they are FAR kinder to their rear-ends than stick shift cars. Just don't abuse it and it'll take 550 whp all day long.
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
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10-30-2018, 07:57 PM | #10 |
GPI Sales Consultant
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Also - if you're going to rebuild the diff, consider either upgrading the OE posi (Jannetty sells a posi-mod kit that many people report good success with) or adding an Eaton TruTrac, which is a worm gear based posi. The OE posi will eventually lose tension and become weak, and you'll end up with one tire fires!
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
10-31-2018, 01:13 PM | #11 |
"Old School"
Drives: 2010 2SS L99 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sherrills Ford, NC
Posts: 1,295
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I'm still on the stock rear and I had a couple 1 wheel burnout at the track in 2017, drained out the differential lube I had in there with friction modifier and only used Amsoil 75w90 Gear Oil and this has stopped the one wheeled burnouts for now anyway. No problems in the turns either with chattering.
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