11-06-2021, 09:15 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 3,398
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Help Bad CV Joint ?
2010 Camaro V6 Auto
Well Guy's I think I broke a Right rear CV Joint on the Camaro Went to go across an intersection on got on it Hard to try and beat some traffic. on the back side of the intersection there was a Bad Bump on the Hwy and with power still applied I heard a Loud pop. I did get it home (about a Block away) but it sounded like i was going to Tear the back out of the Car Question ?? I Thought all V6 Auto's had Standard rear Diff's, if that is so, then how did I drive the Car home with a broken CV Joint What Axles are available for The V6 Auto Can I upgrade the Axles to a V8/Manuel axle
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11-07-2021, 01:23 AM | #2 |
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Drives: 2010 LS Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Pgh
Posts: 411
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What do you mean by Standard rear Diff? They're OPEN diffs, not LSD, so yeah
If a CV joint tore, the car would not move, because of the open differential. The broken axle side would spin, it would be like the other tire was planted, and the other side was on snow or ice and the losing traction wheel would spin. Even the TCS would not be able to correct it, because the application of the brake on that side would be applied to a wheel that was not spinning anyway. I will have a set of axles when I tear my old cradle apart, and a new set of rear seals. I don't think it's axles if you were able to move the car under its own power. I will have a 3.27 open diff too, REAL CHEAP if you need them. I was going to change the axle seals, the driver side is leaking. So, I bought new seals, but later found a 2015 SS rear cradle, COMPLETE, for $450; slapped that on last week. So, I have my complete V6 auto rear cradle. Just took the 1LE suspension parts off it, but the axles and DIFF are still in it, but will be easy to remove. I got lucky with that SS cradle. Everyone else wanted $1000 or more for just the PARTS I needed to convert to 3.27 LSD. Well, I got the whole damn cradle, with everything except the calipers. Also got an SS driveshaft for $70, the whole thing, even though I only needed the rear section of it. It's probably going to be a pinion or ring gear got torn up.I don't think the car would move if an axle broke. I had one break on another car, and it would not move. I was stuck at a traffic light, no one would help me push the car, so the State Police impounded it. People would drive by, blow the horn and shoot me the finger, but not ONE person stopped to ask what was wrong, or to help. I only needed a push 10 feet, to make a right down a hill, and park in a store's parking lot to be out of the way. Nope, not ONE single piece of humanity, so, I it was towed to an impound lot, where I sat and waited for another tow truck to take me back to the office. When the axle broke at the CV joint, it made an awful crunching noise every time I applied the fuel pedal. It came from the left side of the car, I knew what happened immediately. You cannot upgrade to SS axles, or any manual car axles with the V6 Auto open diff. Spline count is different. You would need a 3.27 LSD, axles, and wheel bearings, and rear driveshaft section of any manual car, or V8 car. Last edited by AlanRubin; 11-08-2021 at 06:48 PM. |
11-08-2021, 03:16 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: California
Posts: 36
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Easiest way to tell if it’s an axle is grease on your rim or surrounding suspension parts. I blew the boot on my axle last week due to the axle nut coming loose during a hard shift.
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11-08-2021, 06:50 PM | #4 | |
Banned
Drives: 2010 LS Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Pgh
Posts: 411
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Quote:
a CV joint broke. When I had that one break on me, there was no grease flung anywhere, the boot didn't break... |
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11-08-2021, 06:55 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 3,398
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well I parked it, I'm Tried of putting money in a Car that won't stay running for a Year.
I've got a G6 that has no problems and a 2015 Cadillac That does not give us any problems The Camaro is just a piece of Junk From Chevy Engine went bad at 80,000 mile Replaced Then the Exhaust catalytic convertors went bad, replaced The Heater/Air conditioner flap is now broke And now the Drive Axle Pinion or ring gear The damn thing can set in the Back yard and rot
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11-09-2021, 04:57 AM | #6 |
Banned
Drives: 2010 LS Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Pgh
Posts: 411
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The 2010 Camaro V6 nickel and dimes me to death, but it's a work vehicle
for me. The later model G6 and that 2015 Caddy will all be updated, so yeah, they're more reliable engine wise. I have 238,000 miles on my 2010 V6, so it's a crap shoot. People don't know the issues with the LLT and let them get too low on oil, which is a known problem. That 238,000 miles is also on the trans, rear end, and axles, so again, crap shoot. For that many miles, I expected a lot more lash in the diff, there isn't. I got more clunk out of the SS one I put in, till I spun it to oil the gears, then it was quiet. No noise at all from my original diff. I had bad Cats too, then the replacements didn't work either. So, I now have no cats... Flap is also a known issue, so I don't go all the way cold, I stop 1/4" before the blue dot. I run 1200+ miles a week, so yeah, I am lucky to go an oil change interval without servicing SOMETHING. I Also change the oil every six weeks with that kind of mileage. I also add .5 quarts every week in between, that's how bad, and normal the consumption is. Some weeks, almost a whole quart down, especially when I go back to 5W30 in the winter. I got the parts should you want to put the 2010 back on the road. They're going to be tossed in the trash anyway. I don't need the axles or diff. If you drove up here, you can HAVE them... Just gimme $25 bucks for the new seals... I got UCA outer bushings too. If not, I could use the trans from yours, ha ha ha... The solenoid pack on mine is acting up, it's not mechanical. However, you saying it can sit and rot is just a little anger lettin' loose. Like I said, I got the parts to fix yours... |
11-14-2021, 12:30 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 3,398
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Well finally got back to the car
Driveshaft prefect Halfshaft in great shape Rear Diff Toasted
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11-14-2021, 12:34 PM | #8 | |
Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 3,398
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Quote:
Where you At
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11-14-2021, 01:10 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 3,398
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thanks for the Kind words, It just Sucks
My engine was not an oil problem, But a Head gasket The Shop I dealt With replaced the Thermostat 2 Months prior to the Head Gasket (passenger Side) Blowing, so now I have to get a New Engine 1 year later passenger side Cats go bad. I said No, Went to BBK Got Headers and Green Cats, Trifecta Reinstalled the tune (No Charge) Car was running Fantastic Now A bad Rear end
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11-21-2021, 05:03 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 3,398
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So if i get a SS compete Rear sub assembly, I will need a Back half of the SS drive Shaft.
Can I still use My Brakes form The v6?
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10-30-2022, 08:29 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 3,398
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Back on the Road Again
rear Diff was Destroyed
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