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[1Coopgt]

Originally Posted by farm rat

Mine is a daily driver. I don't baby it, but I don't rod the shit out of it either. I usually run it up to about 3500-4000 rpms between shifts and try to maintain a cruising rpm of 2800.

3500-4000 is nothing. I normally shift around 5000. Normal cruising rpm 2800 . What gear are you in? 6TH gear 2200 is about 75mph. How fast are you going?

[DvKillar]

Hey Elite E..

Another issue that these engines had prior to 2013 is the PCV orifice was designed with far to small of a restriction hole and the "drill mod" must be performed.

So my 2015 LFX has an improved PCV valve? Any other tricks to keep mine from premature death like the OP ?

[farm rat]

Originally Posted by 1Coopgt

3500-4000 is nothing. I normally shift around 5000. Normal cruising rpm 2800 . What gear are you in? 6TH gear 2200 is about 75mph. How fast are you going?

I rarely see 6th gear. On my daily commute which is mainly rural highways I am running about 60-65 average. I took a trip on an interstate a while back where I could run 75-80 and stuck it in 6th.

2800 seems to be a good cruising rpm. I am not lugging the motor and I still have room at the top. FWIW that's the way I always rode my Harley. Whatever speed I was going I picked a gear that put me around 2800.

I seem to get pretty good mpg's doing this.

[farm rat]

Originally Posted by DvKillar

Hey Elite E..

Another issue that these engines had prior to 2013 is the PCV orifice was designed with far to small of a restriction hole and the "drill mod" must be performed.

So my 2015 LFX has an improved PCV valve? Any other tricks to keep mine from premature death like the OP ?

Is there a link to the drill mod?

[Starfall]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

The 3.6 LLT is actually an amazing engine, and the LFX an improvement on the LLT. The issues are common with ALL GDI engines. And this involves several things. First is the oil used. As all GDI engines experience many times the raw fuel wash-down as prior port injection engines, the oil is constantly thinned by this raw fuel. The dealers only put cheap syn blend in these so that combined with the abrasive particulate matter also entering in far larger amounts creates wear issue for the timing chains and tensioners. Then, the oil the dealer uses is far to thin as far as viscosity so that also contributes to wear. Now, the LLT and the LFX had NO low oil warning indicator until 2013 model year, so many have been run low on oil or even out of oil. This takes out the rod bearings and complete engine failure is the result.


Now, why do these and most GDI engines "use oil"? All modern engines use low tension piston rings, so properly seating these rings when new is critical. How is this done? Well the GM instructions for techs (that none of them read or use it seems) is when new, after making sure all fluids are full and no leaks, you take it to a back road for safety, and from a roll in second gear go wide open throttle to 5,000 RPMS and allow the engine to brake the car back down leaving it in second gear so it loads the rings in both directions. Do this 4-5 times and rings will be seated fully as good as they can get. If you break it in easy, odds are the rings will never properly seat, or abrade into the shape of the cylinder walls, and after 500 or so miles a hard glaze forms over the cross hatch hone pattern and the window has passed and you will most likely have oil consumption issues the life of the engine. Then, ALWAYS get that first oil fill and filter out, and ONLY run a full synthetic oil in the 10w40 range. We prefer Amsoil 5w50.


Another issue that these engines had prior to 2013 is the PCV orifice was designed with far to small of a restriction hole and the "drill mod" must be performed. You need to remove the barb from the rear of the passenger side valve cover and drill the top 1/8" and the two bottom holes to 5/64" as these pictures show it becomes clogged and forces oil backwards out the fresh side of the PCV system to be ingested via the main intake air bridge:






None of this helps you now, but I assume you drive easy and used the cheap to thin of oil from the dealer, correct? There is a shop in the Tampa FL area that does LFX swaps including engine and tune for well under $5k if your going to replace the engine again.


More questions? Just ask. ALL GDI engines experience these same issues and it takes steps by the owner to get them to last.

If chevy decides to warranty the engine, should i start using amsoil 5w50 and is that full synthetic?

[rebelyell22]

Originally Posted by 2010reddevil

I hate to say, but the 3.6L in a Camaro is a long stretch from a sporty car. It's for people who either don't care about performance and want a Camaro based solely on looks, or they couldn't afford a V8 and had to settle. The 3.6L is junk Imo. The only V6 pony car I'd own would be the 3.7L Mustang. I hope you get it taken care of asap. If it were me and you were able to get it fixed again, I'd unload that thing like yesterday and get something more reliable

Why would you buy the 3.7 when the Ecoboost is way faster?

[1Coopgt]

Originally Posted by farm rat

I rarely see 6th gear. On my daily commute which is mainly rural highways I am running about 60-65 average. I took a trip on an interstate a while back where I could run 75-80 and stuck it in 6th.

2800 seems to be a good cruising rpm. I am not lugging the motor and I still have room at the top. FWIW that's the way I always rode my Harley. Whatever speed I was going I picked a gear that put me around 2800.

I seem to get pretty good mpg's doing this.

[1Coopgt]

Originally Posted by rebelyell22

Why would you buy the 3.7 when the Ecoboost is way faster?

I was thinking the same thing . Ford stopped making the V6 Stangs for this very reason.

[redcoats1976]

and for the bigger question...why buy a ford?

[2010reddevil]

Because for a domestic V6, the 3.7L is truly a great engine. 30 mpg and 305hp.whats not to like? And it's port fuel injected. I've seen the Mustangs with them run mid 12s n/a and deep in the 10s with boost. I don't care if the Ecoboost 4cyl is faster, it sounds like a hoover. I don't do 4cyl unless it's the only option available.

[Royal Tiger]

Do people with V-6 Camaros hope GM will make a V-6 Corvette? You know for the fuel economy or because 323hp is enough? Just curious.



There you go Ron. 20 more pages.

[Soybeanrice]

The v6 is a good engine, it just eats some oil and the timing chain has to be checked. My friend has an LY7, which is before the LLT, and it’s at over 160k miles. Been needing a new timing chain for a while now too lol

[gringo]

Originally Posted by JerTM

All I can say good about the 3.6L is it has filled my wallet quite a few times, can't wait for more of them to come out of warranty. It is my least favorite engine GM has made, ever.

If you're going to make a controversial comment like that, I think you should point out the facts of why you feel this way. Don't get hung up on the early LLT's that had the PCV mod orfice problem or owners who never changed their oil on their Impalas, include the later ones like the LFX. After all, you mentioned all 3.6's.

Since you seem to be suggesting that you are a mechanic of some sort, let's hear the details.

[gringo]

Originally Posted by DvKillar

Hey Elite E..

Another issue that these engines had prior to 2013 is the PCV orifice was designed with far to small of a restriction hole and the "drill mod" must be performed.

So my 2015 LFX has an improved PCV valve? Any other tricks to keep mine from premature death like the OP ?

All LFX's had the improved PCV orfice mod. Get a catch can and a clean side separator as well. Change the oil frequently and use a good full-synthetic.

The 3.6 is a very good engine if you maintain it well, just like any other engine.

Sometimes these LS3 truck engine guys like to spaz out and give us V6 er's the hate for some reason. I guess they have LT1 envy or something. Don't worry, it'll soon pass and they'll start calming down soon.