JANNETTY RACING FORCED INDUCTION Q&A

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

Hi Ted, I have a 2014 LS3 daily driver with LTs, exhaust and CAI, all manufactures unknown, I bought it with these on. I changed all of the fluids and am getting ready for a tune up. Looking at catch can to keep it clean.

In the long run I want FI system, upgraded heads, fuel rails, bigger injectors, and cam. Plus all of the beefier rods, springs etc. I am sure as I go pumps and other things will also be needed.

I have two questions. 1, a NOS kit is on it, can I safely remove it or is it better to leave it in place. I don’t plan on using it beyond showing it to people. 2. Because of budget I plan on building this all in stages, what is a recommended order of build?

Congrats on your purchase.

So basically your looking at our Super Street Brawler package 650-700 RWHP.

Ported heads are not worth much and money is better spent elsewhere.

I would remove the NOS system.

I would also recommend a Proper leak down test to prove integrity of your engine.

Order of build

JRE 415 package

JRE 470 cam package with fuel system upgrades

JRE blower package.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Shodown

Hey Ted,

How much rwhp is gained on a ZL1 going from a 10% pulley to an 18%? Car already has bolt-ons.

10% is part of our 75 RWHP upgrade Package

18% is part of our 125 RWHP upgrade package

You must have all the supporting parts in the 125 Package to run an 18% pulley.

Ted.

[Valkyrie14]

Exactly the type of answer I was looking for. I think you remote tune on both SCT and HP, which do you prefer to work with?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

Exactly the type of answer I was looking for. I think you remote tune on both SCT and HP, which do you prefer to work with?

I can do everything with Either SCT or HPtuners

SCT works out cheaper with our buy parts from me get tunes for those parts free program only available with SCT device.

Ted.

[Shodown]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

10% is part of our 75 RWHP upgrade Package

18% is part of our 125 RWHP upgrade package

You must have all the supporting parts in the 125 Package to run an 18% pulley.

Ted.

Awesome, thanks!

[rplblackss]

Hey tedI just purchased a whipple from you guys and I Have bbk headers 13/4”, I was told I need to upgrade my fuel system for sct tune. Do I need to install a zl1 fuel pump?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by rplblackss

Hey tedI just purchased a whipple from you guys and I Have bbk headers 13/4”, I was told I need to upgrade my fuel system for sct tune. Do I need to install a zl1 fuel pump?

Thank you for your order.

Yes we recommend the ZL-1 pump and our special Fuel pump control module for any supercharged cars.

Ted.

[rplblackss]

Ok thanks ted

[Mr2Hard2See]

What is bap. I keep seeing it connected to fuel pump talk. And wouldn’t a zl1 pump be good for 650 hp I don’t think I’ll go past that on the lsa swap

[HOJO]

BAP stands for boost a pump. It enables your fuel pump to flow more fuel than it a on its own basically.

[FasNuf]

Originally Posted by Mr2Hard2See

What is bap. I keep seeing it connected to fuel pump talk. And wouldn’t a zl1 pump be good for 650 hp I don’t think I’ll go past that on the lsa swap

I was at 600whp and at the edge of the stock fuel pump. If you're going over that, a BAP is necessary but not the best solution. An aux fuel pump like DSX would be better but it cost more.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Mr2Hard2See

What is bap. I keep seeing it connected to fuel pump talk. And wouldn’t a zl1 pump be good for 650 hp I don’t think I’ll go past that on the lsa swap

Originally Posted by HOJO

BAP stands for boost a pump. It enables your fuel pump to flow more fuel than it a on its own basically.

Boost a Pump has been around for 25 years and before Returnless fuel systems they were connected directly to the 12 volt fuel pump.

The proper terminology for Returnless systems is Fuel System Voltage Booster,, FSVB

The BAP term is stuck due to history and needs to be changed.

The Voltage booster goes between the fuse box and Fuel system control module.

It simply regulates the voltage to 14.7 even if the alternator is only putting out 12.5 then when you go in to boost it will jump to 17.5 volts.

This gives the fuel pump control module the power it needs to run the fuel pump at higher flow demands.

The returnless fuel pumps are no longer 12 volt pumps, they are Pulse width modulated fuel pumps.

Higher voltage means lower duty cycle to move the same or more fuel.

Hope his helps.

[Mr2Hard2See]

Thanks fellas I have a clear understanding now. 600/650 would be a peak power not looking to invest more past that power band. This money pit will have to take a chill pill so I can bring my Monte Carlo to life.

[ccutaia]

Hi Ted, I purchased a Whipple from you a few years back for my 2013 Camaro SS and now I am looking to finish up the motor. I want to do long tube 1 7/8 headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, ZL1 fuel pump with a controller, currently I have a Cold Air Induction CAI tied to a functional ram-air hood. Here is where I need some guidance. To CAT or not to CAT is the 1st question no inspections here in TN, and second pulley size for the boost. I currently have the 4" pulley which will give me 9 pounds of boost. I talked to Whipple about going to a 3.875 or 3.750 and they could not give me an answer. They said I would have to see where the boost was after the mods are done because the headers drop the boost 1-2 lbs. The problem is as you know is Dyno time and cost to send the car back to the dyno after waiting a few days to get the right pully size. Based on your experience having done a ton of these motors, running 93 octane which size would give me the best performance??