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Old 12-18-2013, 01:44 PM   #57
eastwoodisme
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightrider28 View Post
Yes, that is all I wanted! Lol wasnt expecting this rampage to arise... But I believe I got my answer (someone PM'd me). Talking RWHP he claimed that if i upgrade my intake to CAI, add an Apex scoop, and a throttle body it will add 25rwhp.... Not saying its accurate... Just saying what I was told.
The person who PM'd you is spot on.
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:45 PM   #58
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I was gonna say something but now I'm confused...

I do know this, my car a '13 1LE BONE STOCK around 1500 miles put down 368RWHP and 366RWTQ on a DynoJet. Do the math... Roughly 14% loss. So like said earlier it varies.
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:46 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Firefighter View Post
I was gonna say something but now I'm confused...

I do know this my car '13 1LE BONE STOCK around 1500 miles put down 368RWHP and 366RWTQ on a DynoJet. Do the math... Roughly 14% loss. So like said earlier it varies.
Precisely why I recommend 15%. Thank you!

No one would be confused if people didn't make assumptions about horsepower on a public forum where both brand new owners and 70 year old muscle heads are posting!
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:47 PM   #60
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Thank you! Lol wish you were first one to comment to avoid the craziness!
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:58 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Spartan01 View Post
..... However, even the best headers are not as good as NO headers, (from a restriction stand point.)........
Well now. We all know that NO headers or manifold will torch valves. That aside. I always thought, maybe incorrectly, that headers actually created a small vacuum affect with the exhaust. Actually "pulling" fumes thru the header from ex port to collector. Hence short tube vs long tube. Long being an upgrade and shorties doing about nothing.

I though you could even "tune" headers by increasing or decreasing the tube length. Anyone??

If true, then headers are better than no manifold (from a restriction standpoint).
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Old 12-18-2013, 02:11 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by TOYMARO View Post
Well now. We all know that NO headers or manifold will torch valves. That aside. I always thought, maybe incorrectly, that headers actually created a small vacuum affect with the exhaust. Actually "pulling" fumes thru the header from ex port to collector. Hence short tube vs long tube. Long being an upgrade and shorties doing about nothing.

I though you could even "tune" headers by increasing or decreasing the tube length. Anyone??

If true, then headers are better than no manifold (from a restriction standpoint).
You are correct. Negative pressure is what does the "pulling" effect. It is further encompassed by the scavenging affect in the collector. The smoother the "pull" if you will, the more efficient the airflow. I could go into a very in depth explanation of why we can have drone, the advantages of X-pipes, etc but I'll settle with telling you that you are very correct and that Spartan01 is completely inaccurate in about everything he types.
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Old 12-18-2013, 02:12 PM   #63
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My '11 2SS M6 put down 502 RWHP with the following - ARH, Magna Flow, HF Cats, ADM Stage 2 Cam, ADM CAI with scoop, ADM tune. Giddy up!
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:00 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightrider28 View Post
Yes, that is all I wanted! Lol wasnt expecting this rampage to arise... But I believe I got my answer (someone PM'd me). Talking RWHP he claimed that if i upgrade my intake to CAI, add an Apex scoop, and a throttle body it will add 25rwhp.... Not saying its accurate... Just saying what I was told.
25hp on a CAI with scoop and TB? Lmao please tell us who pm'd you this foolishness.

This thread is just full of FAIL. there's guys comparing a 30lb bookbag to a pulley and others saying there's 25hp to be had with scoop and TB with a CAI.

And yes IM TALKING RWHP lol.
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:06 PM   #65
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Wow this thread went downhill.

In all seriousness, to hit 500 REAR wheel hp naturally aspirated you need a cam and you need heads. If it is out of your budget then I would just keep saving up towards it. It's not going to happen with just all of the bolt ons. The strongest bolt-on LS3 Camaro I have ever seen only did 433rwhp on our dyno jet.
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:36 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
25hp on a CAI with scoop and TB? Lmao please tell us who pm'd you this foolishness.

This thread is just full of FAIL. there's guys comparing a 30lb bookbag to a pulley and others saying there's 25hp to be had with scoop and TB with a CAI.

And yes IM TALKING RWHP lol.
Why do you think I haven't chimed in very much. Lol
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:33 PM   #67
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ok im an idiot

MY math was wrong. In my defense all the converting talk was driving me nuts. I just never talk about Crank hp unless a boat. Who cares right? On a car the only avail hp is at the tires. the diff between crank and tires is not able to change by much (clutch or stall). What matters IMO is RWHP and traction. You can only put RWHP to the pave not crank.

eh...bottom line?

SORRY GUYS!!!!
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:44 PM   #68
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Lot of haters on here about the HP specifics so don't take it personal.

My advice: under drive pully, Cold Air scoop, throttle body might get u an extra 25.

If that fails, I heard fuzzy dice add a few HP. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1387406642.436888.jpg
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:51 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Spartan01 View Post
OK, seriously?
I don't think you understand how this whole thing works.
Most mods out there will not give you horsepower.
They may free up horsepower that is robbed by the powertrain, due to entropy inherent to any mechanical system.
The LS3 itself, under ideal, laboratory conditions (which is probably with NO headers, and NO intake) is rated at 426 at the crank.
Without specifically adding power to the formula, the best you could ever hope to get, in a perfect universe without friction and entropy would be 426 RWHP. Most of these mods will not really increase your crank HP, they will simply reduce the parasitic loss, and bring your RWHP number closer to your crank HP number.

It is true that some systems and mods will be better than the factory specs but not that much, to drastically increase the HP you need to drastically increase the input of air and or fuel, as well as drastically increasing the ability to vent exhaust.

I have a CAI with Apex scoop, Strong MAF, VMax ported TB, 1 7/8" LT headers, SLP underdrive pulley, DMH cutouts, Hi Flow cats, 3"Magnaflow exhaust, and am pushing 402 RWHP, 409 with the cutouts open. (Granted this was at Infinite Speed & Performance in MD, on a dyno that typically shows 3-5% less that actual output.) But I am only maybe at 425-440 crank HP.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:08 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shift_Rejected View Post
Lot of haters on here about the HP specifics so don't take it personal.

My advice: under drive pully, Cold Air scoop, throttle body might get u an extra 25.

If that fails, I heard fuzzy dice add a few HP. Attachment 583866


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TB adds nothing, zero, nada (damn thing) BUT throttle response? YES

Scoop, is really there to just divert cooler air not cram the air box with air.

A good cold air kit like vararam, adm, rotofab, haltech will net you hp

Let's just say the best mods and proven RWHP numbers are Lt's, a good CAI kit and a tune. It's a proven 40-45rwhp.
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