Tremec 6060 2nd Gear Grind Issue Repair - Page 4 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Destructo09 · 06-20-2015, 03:24 PM

Mine grinds sometimes too, 1-2, transmission plenty warm. It's happened a few times during autocross. I drove around on the way back from one event just making sure my clutch work wasn't to blame and intentionally left the clutch down longer. I still got grinds randomly.

It's completely random too, just driving around town it's fine, only during a high rpm shift and trying to make it somewhat quick. I also shift without gripping the shifter and use my fingers to "pull" the shifter back and my open palm to push it forward, this is how road course drivers do so you can hopefully avoid money shifts. It's supposed to prevent the transmission from doing stuff it doesn't want to, but I still grind using that method.

I've just decided to live with it for now and when/if it gets worse i'm going to have it rebuild at Tick Performance and just do a stage one which replaces all the bad parts. I have no plans to go with anymore HP, so I just want a rebuild to make it right.

patternpilot · 06-20-2015, 11:47 PM

I once read in a corvette forum that the Tremec 6060 had a detent spring and ball that caused the hesitation when shifting gears. The purpose of the spring and ball was to help hold the trans in gear. This spring was accessible by removing a plug on the side of the transmission. They were installing shims under the plug to lessen the pressure exerted by the spring, thus getting rid of some of the hesitation when shifting. This was supposed to help with the gear grind by letting the syncros engage sooner as the gate to the second gear was smoother. I have been unable to find this plug on my trans even though they showed its location. Anybody know anything about this?

OrangeVert · 06-21-2015, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeless Man

I have a 2011 and it only grinds 1-2 shift in winter when it's cold and not warmed up. If I am doing high RPM shifts I never have a problem either. Is mine messed up?

HM, this is mine exactly! But last winter - no grind. Still, I wouldn't trust it, it's just not right.

2010reddevil · 06-21-2015, 07:03 AM

Mine still has a wee bit of notchiness/slight gear grind on a fast 1-2 shift, but since I swapped to the Redline D4 fluid, it has improved a good bit. I also blame the weak stock shifter assembly for a lot of the issues too. I've never been blocked out of 2nd so I guess that's a good thing. I would most certainly pick this transmission vs a MT82, even if the gearing is better in it vs ours.

djm96z28 · 06-22-2015, 09:08 AM

I'd like to change the trans fluid to the Redline D-4 everyone talks about, but I don't have the facility/equipment to do it myself. I wonder if I purchased the 4 quarts of Redline if a dealer would be willing to put it in for me??

NC_SS · 06-22-2015, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djm96z28

I'd like to change the trans fluid to the Redline D-4 everyone talks about, but I don't have the facility/equipment to do it myself. I wonder if I purchased the 4 quarts of Redline if a dealer would be willing to put it in for me??

Most dealers will do anything you ask them to do if you have the parts ready for them

wakespeak · 06-22-2015, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

Carbon blocker rings and bronze fork pads are supposed to be the fix.

There are some good threads in the transmission driveline section about the operation of the synchronizers and blocker rings and why they can refuse a shift.

On other sites, some speculate that in high hp applications the trans housing itself may flex and they recommend faceplating the trans (Liberty Transmission explains this well), but those guys are pulling 1000+ hp.

When I say from what I gather, I mean my observations of others statements and my experience, no science there. I have the sintered metal rings and never got blocked out of second, although I was not spinning the tires during the shift and I shift around 6300.

When I have missed shifts I believe it was the boot I was wearing. My wife told me the brake lights were coming on when I shift. I have a prosthetic leg, so I take my shoe off now and no more missed shifts (still working out slipping the clutch). None of this will help your described situation but it's my experience.

I did this before I started racing it.

That's interesting info on the flexing. I think getting lower gearing, like 3.91 or 4.11 will help also by moving the torque stress from the transmission to the rear diff.

CamaroCracka · 06-24-2015, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djm96z28

I'd like to change the trans fluid to the Redline D-4 everyone talks about, but I don't have the facility/equipment to do it myself. I wonder if I purchased the 4 quarts of Redline if a dealer would be willing to put it in for me??

All it takes is a 3/8s ratchet, funnel, hose, drip pan, jack and jack stands.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wakespeak

That's interesting info on the flexing. I think getting lower gearing, like 3.91 or 4.11 will help also by moving the torque stress from the transmission to the rear diff.

What you suggest seems logical, but wouldn't know enough to say. Some on the Vette site speculated that it would only occur at over 1000hp. Nonetheless, some high end racers get their stuff faceplated. It was out of my budget and overkill for my needs. I also don't think any of the cars getting the faceplating are running 3.91 gears as their power levels would never get traction.

JoeV · 07-01-2015, 08:58 PM

In case anyone was curious I got my car back today from getting new carbon/hybrid syncro installed. WOW what a difference. Crisp smooth shifts to second gear at any rpm or as fast as I want. Great fix! Let me know if anyone wants more details.

vf454 · 08-31-2015, 03:52 PM

Nice this is my next project

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeV

In case anyone was curious I got my car back today from getting new carbon/hybrid syncro installed. WOW what a difference. Crisp smooth shifts to second gear at any rpm or as fast as I want. Great fix! Let me know if anyone wants more details.

BurnedRubber · 08-31-2015, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeless Man

Just wondering, if u put in 3.91 gears does that get rid of the problem?

You put 3.91 gears in the rear end, not the trans so i doubt it would fix anything.

trclee · 08-31-2015, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patternpilot

I once read in a corvette forum that the Tremec 6060 had a detent spring and ball that caused the hesitation when shifting gears. The purpose of the spring and ball was to help hold the trans in gear. This spring was accessible by removing a plug on the side of the transmission. They were installing shims under the plug to lessen the pressure exerted by the spring, thus getting rid of some of the hesitation when shifting. This was supposed to help with the gear grind by letting the syncros engage sooner as the gate to the second gear was smoother. I have been unable to find this plug on my trans even though they showed its location. Anybody know anything about this?

This was the first thing I tried it didn't work. It just made slightly less effort to shift through the gates. Did nothing for the second gear grind in my application. I also tried the ideal garage upgraded master cylinder, it didn't fix the grind but it helped lessen it. i have not missed a shift since but it still grinds. I also have talked to a local transmission builder with many years experience, and he doesn't like the bronze pads. He said if the pad comes loose it will not stick to the magnet and will end up going through the gears and causing a lot more damage than the plastic pads. He talked to me about options of the carbon upgraded parts and also mentioned Faceplating. I'm not sure which way I will be going yet.

lydspop · 12-26-2015, 12:22 PM

My issue is shifting 3-2, 1LS. 1-2 is fine, never had an issue. Anyone notice it that way?

OrangeCrushCamaro · 08-28-2018, 07:36 PM

I have a 2010 LS3 six-speed manual Camaro that had this well-known 1-2 shift problem at any anything above 4,000 rpm. It got to the point that it could not make the 1-2 shift at all above 4000 rpm. The local dealership tore into the TR6060 transmission and found a lot of synchro material in its belly. Upon inspection, they discovered the 1-2 gear synchro had been installed backwards. They replaced the whole set of the synchros and replaced the input shaft with a rebuilt one because new shafts were not available (1st year model). They told me to come back in 3,000 miles and they'd replace it with a new one.
The rebuilt transmission shifted nicely in all gears except 1-2, which I was grinding as often as not at high rpm. My friend had a Mustang with the same problem. The Ford dealership told him there was nothing they could do and advised him to make his 1-2 shift at 4,000 rpm!?!?!
After searching high and low on multiple forums, I could NOT find anyone who could explain how to fix the problem without spending a lot of money. I was so frustrated I spent the next YEAR trying many different combinations of tricks from my drag racing days until I finally found a specific way to make this 1-2 shift consistently with the OE TR6060 synchros (installed correctly), OE GM tranny fluid and the stock shifter. Here's how I've made this shift time-after-time for several years now:
1-2 SHIFT PROCEDURE: At WOT and as my LS3 is winding up to 6,200 rpm, I press forward on the shifter with about five pounds of force. At 6,200 rpm, I hold that forward pressure on the shifter while slamming the clutch to the floor. As the clutch hits the floor, I release the forward pressure on the shifter and pull it hard into second gear as I'm getting off the clutch and back on the throttle. If I'm too quick on releasing the forward pressure and shifting before the clutch hits the floor, the penalty is always grinding 2nd gear, no scratch and no slam back in my seat (so frustrating). However, If I get the timing right and the forward pressure is on the shifter when the clutch hits the floor, I'm rewarded with a clean 1-2 shift, a scratch before the traction system make the tires bite and me being slammed back in my seat. The timing on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts can be much sloppier and this tranny will make those shifts reliably.
Hope this helps.

06-20-2015, 03:24 PM	#43
Destructo09 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Raleigh-Durham Posts: 1,409	Mine grinds sometimes too, 1-2, transmission plenty warm. It's happened a few times during autocross. I drove around on the way back from one event just making sure my clutch work wasn't to blame and intentionally left the clutch down longer. I still got grinds randomly. It's completely random too, just driving around town it's fine, only during a high rpm shift and trying to make it somewhat quick. I also shift without gripping the shifter and use my fingers to "pull" the shifter back and my open palm to push it forward, this is how road course drivers do so you can hopefully avoid money shifts. It's supposed to prevent the transmission from doing stuff it doesn't want to, but I still grind using that method. I've just decided to live with it for now and when/if it gets worse i'm going to have it rebuild at Tick Performance and just do a stage one which replaces all the bad parts. I have no plans to go with anymore HP, so I just want a rebuild to make it right. __________________ 2010 2SS BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP)

06-20-2015, 11:47 PM	#44
patternpilot Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tri-Cities WA. Posts: 928 View My Garage	I once read in a corvette forum that the Tremec 6060 had a detent spring and ball that caused the hesitation when shifting gears. The purpose of the spring and ball was to help hold the trans in gear. This spring was accessible by removing a plug on the side of the transmission. They were installing shims under the plug to lessen the pressure exerted by the spring, thus getting rid of some of the hesitation when shifting. This was supposed to help with the gear grind by letting the syncros engage sooner as the gate to the second gear was smoother. I have been unable to find this plug on my trans even though they showed its location. Anybody know anything about this? __________________ There's more to life than gas mileage LS3, Whipple, Custom Comp Cam, springs, pushrods, timing set, CAI intake, Apex cold air scoop, Doug Thorley TRI-Y headers, Billet Custom Products baffled Valve covers, Mighty Mouse Catch can, ADM FPCM, ZL1 fuel pump, MSD boost-a-pump, Hex Vent hood vents, ProSport gauges(fuel pressure, AFR, Boost), Corsa, 100 cell Cats. Jannetty remote tuned, Pfadt trailing arms, all parts user installed. No Dyno yet. Manual trans. 3.45 gears.

06-21-2015, 07:03 AM	#46
2010reddevil Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Victory Red 6M Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Gulf Coast, TX Posts: 1,424	Mine still has a wee bit of notchiness/slight gear grind on a fast 1-2 shift, but since I swapped to the Redline D4 fluid, it has improved a good bit. I also blame the weak stock shifter assembly for a lot of the issues too. I've never been blocked out of 2nd so I guess that's a good thing. I would most certainly pick this transmission vs a MT82, even if the gearing is better in it vs ours. __________________ 2011 2SS 6A Red Jewel Metallic, Vararam Tune CAI, Magnaflow 3" Competition c/b, Speed Engineering 1-7/8 LT's, Circle D 5C, M/T 275/40R20 S/S, HPTuners tune by Ryan@GPI 12.3 @ 112 ACM as of 12/22/19 Gone on 12/28/19 R I P 2010 2SS 6M Victory Red/Black (old ride) CAI intake, Speed Engineering 1 7/8" LT's, X4 base tune, Flowmaster Outlaw axle-back. 12.6 @ 115 SAR as of 9/19/15 Gone but never forgotten.

07-01-2015, 08:58 PM	#51
JoeV Drives: 2011 Magnacharged/Cammed SS 702 WHP Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Tempe AZ Posts: 33	In case anyone was curious I got my car back today from getting new carbon/hybrid syncro installed. WOW what a difference. Crisp smooth shifts to second gear at any rpm or as fast as I want. Great fix! Let me know if anyone wants more details. __________________ 702 RWHP

08-28-2018, 07:36 PM	#56
OrangeCrushCamaro Drives: 2010 SS Camaro LS3 Six-speed manual Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Katy, TX Posts: 1	2010 LS3 Camaro w TR6060 Tranny 1-2 Shift Grinding Problem I have a 2010 LS3 six-speed manual Camaro that had this well-known 1-2 shift problem at any anything above 4,000 rpm. It got to the point that it could not make the 1-2 shift at all above 4000 rpm. The local dealership tore into the TR6060 transmission and found a lot of synchro material in its belly. Upon inspection, they discovered the 1-2 gear synchro had been installed backwards. They replaced the whole set of the synchros and replaced the input shaft with a rebuilt one because new shafts were not available (1st year model). They told me to come back in 3,000 miles and they'd replace it with a new one. The rebuilt transmission shifted nicely in all gears except 1-2, which I was grinding as often as not at high rpm. My friend had a Mustang with the same problem. The Ford dealership told him there was nothing they could do and advised him to make his 1-2 shift at 4,000 rpm!?!?! After searching high and low on multiple forums, I could NOT find anyone who could explain how to fix the problem without spending a lot of money. I was so frustrated I spent the next YEAR trying many different combinations of tricks from my drag racing days until I finally found a specific way to make this 1-2 shift consistently with the OE TR6060 synchros (installed correctly), OE GM tranny fluid and the stock shifter. Here's how I've made this shift time-after-time for several years now: 1-2 SHIFT PROCEDURE: At WOT and as my LS3 is winding up to 6,200 rpm, I press forward on the shifter with about five pounds of force. At 6,200 rpm, I hold that forward pressure on the shifter while slamming the clutch to the floor. As the clutch hits the floor, I release the forward pressure on the shifter and pull it hard into second gear as I'm getting off the clutch and back on the throttle. If I'm too quick on releasing the forward pressure and shifting before the clutch hits the floor, the penalty is always grinding 2nd gear, no scratch and no slam back in my seat (so frustrating). However, If I get the timing right and the forward pressure is on the shifter when the clutch hits the floor, I'm rewarded with a clean 1-2 shift, a scratch before the traction system make the tires bite and me being slammed back in my seat. The timing on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts can be much sloppier and this tranny will make those shifts reliably. Hope this helps.

06-22-2015, 09:08 AM	#47
djm96z28 Drives: 2012 Camaro 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 1,114	I'd like to change the trans fluid to the Redline D-4 everyone talks about, but I don't have the facility/equipment to do it myself. I wonder if I purchased the 4 quarts of Redline if a dealer would be willing to put it in for me??

12-26-2015, 12:22 PM	#55
lydspop Drives: 2018 Camaro LS/RS, 2017 Chevy SS Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Phoenix Posts: 35 View My Garage	My issue is shifting 3-2, 1LS. 1-2 is fine, never had an issue. Anyone notice it that way?