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Old 11-30-2017, 04:29 PM   #43
JusticePete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
See posts 6&7 on this Vette forum about the dual role the assist springs plays and GM bulletin on not removing it and denial of warranty if removed. Assuming it's also applicable to the Camaro spring ?
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f62/a...spring-115662/

Here's an excerpt

One purpose of the over center spring is to return the clutch pedal to the very top of the stroke to expose the compensation port. The clutch master cylinder has a compensation port that is positioned within 1 MM of the top of the stroke. The compensation port allows internal pressure in the clutch hydraulic system to be exhausted into the master cylinder and also provides for system refill as the clutch disc wears. Removing or disconnecting the spring may allow the clutch pedal to hang at rest position with the piston short of the compensation port. If the internal pressure is not exhausted the CSC may get stroked too far and a clutch hydraulic system failure may result.

The second purpose of the spring is to provide for the designed clutch pedal feel
(ie. make it easier to hold down in stop/go traffic)
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:49 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
See posts 6&7 on this Vette forum about the dual role the assist springs plays and GM bulletin on not removing it and denial of warranty if removed. Assuming it's also applicable to the Camaro spring ?
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f62/a...spring-115662/

Here's an excerpt

One purpose of the over center spring is to return the clutch pedal to the very top of the stroke to expose the compensation port. The clutch master cylinder has a compensation port that is positioned within 1 MM of the top of the stroke. The compensation port allows internal pressure in the clutch hydraulic system to be exhausted into the master cylinder and also provides for system refill as the clutch disc wears. Removing or disconnecting the spring may allow the clutch pedal to hang at rest position with the piston short of the compensation port. If the internal pressure is not exhausted the CSC may get stroked too far and a clutch hydraulic system failure may result.

The second purpose of the spring is to provide for the designed clutch pedal feel
(ie. make it easier to hold down in stop/go traffic)
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oh for cryin out loud! this crap AGAIN! your thread is from 2009!!!!! I guess I will have to tell my soon to be 117k clutch to go f itself since I have had the spring off practically the DAY I bought the car(27k ago, no idea of previous use but it did have a 2014 motor put in it!)...and I don't baby the SOB one bit...BUT I DO USE THE RANGER METHOD!...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html...

I wish peeps would do a bit more research than just regurgitating crap...it gets old and we folk who know better via direct exp. find it tiring...

if you pedal is not coming back to the top ON IT'S OWN without the spring your clutch hydraulic system is f'd...only time my STOCK clutch ever acted up was not lettin it cool better runs...did approx. 50 1/4 this year...and I DD unless rain or snow...peace out!
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:55 PM   #45
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screw it...you want proof? 5k launch, 7k shift, no weight reduction...next year I will run 11's once I get my dig sorted..
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:22 PM   #46
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My lingenfelter return spring ensures the pedal gets to the top of the travel. If someone needs help holding the clutch pedal down maybe they should've gone for an automatic.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:46 PM   #47
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^What he said lol I took my spring out because I didn't like the kick back from the pedal, pretty hard to get used to. I like it without the spring 1000x better but now this compensation port non-sense has me thinking about putting the bastard back in...
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:02 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by rviper24 View Post
^What he said lol I took my spring out because I didn't like the kick back from the pedal, pretty hard to get used to. I like it without the spring 1000x better but now this compensation port non-sense has me thinking about putting the bastard back in...
Get the lingenfelter spring instead. There is some effort added, but it is not much. This probably has more to do with the OEM spring removal, but I can tell the clutch does feel better, I can hear it engage/disengage with the pedal travel.
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Old 12-07-2017, 08:32 AM   #49
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So does anyone know if this compensation port thing is true?
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:34 AM   #50
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I have NEVER read nor heard of the master cylinder failing...not a single one...now if some has please provide where it came from...tks..

what does fail is the slave...why? if you went the the ranger method link and read it top to bottom you will see where due to the seal design clutch dust can migrate into the slave..bad because it's abrasive! Now the monster billet support helps with after market clutches that have higher clamping and the stock slave support will fail over time...but the seals are the same so the same prob exists..

only true solution is an after market slave unit that addresses this specific issue. until then the frequent brake/clutch fluid exchanges work for me. good luck!
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:08 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankwjr View Post
I have NEVER read nor heard of the master cylinder failing...not a single one...now if some has please provide where it came from...tks..

what does fail is the slave...why? if you went the the ranger method link and read it top to bottom you will see where due to the seal design clutch dust can migrate into the slave..bad because it's abrasive! Now the moster billet support helps with after market clutches that have higher clamping and the stock slave support will fail over time...but the seals are the same so the same prob exists..

only true solution is an after market slave unit that addresses this specific issue. until then the frequent brake/clutch fluid exchanges work for me. good luck!
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:26 PM   #52
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Yes I know the ranger method very well, I used to do it to my GTO all the time to keep the fluid and reservoir clean.
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Old 06-08-2018, 07:25 PM   #53
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Old thread but wanted to chime in. My care has 28k miles on it and about 4 months of high horsepower. After a few very spirited runs my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I considered getting a spring and ran across this thread.

I read the post by frankw regarding the ranger method and decidied to go that route first. The results, OMG, I got my clutch back. Totally different car that now jams smoothly into all gears. Well, 1-2 is still a POS, but dang it digs!!

Thanks for sharing tribal knowledge. It worked for me!

peace.
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Old 06-09-2018, 10:01 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankwjr View Post
I have NEVER read nor heard of the master cylinder failing...not a single one...now if some has please provide where it came from...tks..

what does fail is the slave...why? if you went the the ranger method link and read it top to bottom you will see where due to the seal design clutch dust can migrate into the slave..bad because it's abrasive! Now the monster billet support helps with after market clutches that have higher clamping and the stock slave support will fail over time...but the seals are the same so the same prob exists..

only true solution is an after market slave unit that addresses this specific issue. until then the frequent brake/clutch fluid exchanges work for me. good luck!

You know, the "compensation port" post actually explicitly states the CSC (clutch slave cylinder) will fail. The port itself is simply a feature of the master cylinder.



So you told someone they were wrong, and then stated exactly what they stated.


Anyway. If anyone with a V6 comes across this, I recommend against trying it. Even though the hydraulic system should be nearly identical (I also have an Ideal Garage SS master cylinder and a Monster twin disc + slave now), I tried removing the clutch assist spring with the stock clutch and with my twin disc and both times the clutch pedal consistency was gone and it never shifted quite right. My friend with a 15 GT gave me the ideal originally for the same reason the SS guys have stated, and his car with vs without the spring was an obvious improvement, which is why I tried it.


Funny, I've been doing the ranger method since I got the car though. The transmission gets so hot driving normally on the highway it seems like it just cooks the clutch fluid, but fresh fluid makes it drive perfectly again.
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