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Old 05-03-2018, 04:54 PM   #1
el Wulf
 
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Carpet Removal to Sound Deaden

Hey Everyone...how's it going?
I'm installing the new system into the Beast & am in the process of applying sound deadening to the interior. Have a question about the factory installed dampening under the carpet...is it sufficient or do I need to add some CLD, MLV, & CCF? If so, does anyone have any DIY information on removing the carpet & underpadding. I found a thread on how to remove the headliner, but think that I will send that job out to have the HMF installed. Much appreciated.
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Old 05-03-2018, 10:47 PM   #2
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I haven’t seen under the carpet, but if the pad/damping is solid then you would be fine to cover that with mlv. Pull the pad first and lay your cld, then replace pad, then mlv. The only thing ccf does is separate the mlv from the metal floor. If mlv lays directly on the metal, all it will do is change the resonant frequency. Try your best to get 100% coverage with mlv, whereas cld only needs to be about 25% coverage before you start seeing diminishing returns on your investment. Check out the sound deadener showdown thread on diymobileaudio.com (DIYMA, as its affectionately referred to), and also the youtube video by Richard Vedvick regarding sound deadening your doors for about $20 using Home Depot materials. (Richard is an acoustic engineer, by the way). Great to see someone doing their stereo upgrade the right way. A lot of guys are just swapping head units and speakers, only to find very limited gains per money spent, when they could have sound deadened their ride for about 50% of the money they spent, and the stock crappy system would sound better than their upgraded system! Please post some pics of the different stages as you install, and some completed system pics. A lot of people might use these when they upgrade...
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Old 05-06-2018, 11:24 PM   #3
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I haven’t seen under the carpet, but if the pad/damping is solid then you would be fine to cover that with mlv. Pull the pad first and lay your cld, then replace pad, then mlv. The only thing ccf does is separate the mlv from the metal floor. If mlv lays directly on the metal, all it will do is change the resonant frequency. Try your best to get 100% coverage with mlv, whereas cld only needs to be about 25% coverage before you start seeing diminishing returns on your investment. Check out the sound deadener showdown thread on diymobileaudio.com (DIYMA, as its affectionately referred to), and also the youtube video by Richard Vedvick regarding sound deadening your doors for about $20 using Home Depot materials. (Richard is an acoustic engineer, by the way). Great to see someone doing their stereo upgrade the right way. A lot of guys are just swapping head units and speakers, only to find very limited gains per money spent, when they could have sound deadened their ride for about 50% of the money they spent, and the stock crappy system would sound better than their upgraded system! Please post some pics of the different stages as you install, and some completed system pics. A lot of people might use these when they upgrade...
Much Appreciated!
I've been looking forward to installing this system for awhile now...was going to install it then into my '04 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, but due to an injury & long recovery, I was unable. Of course, it works out a little better now....installing it in the Camaro instead. I really appreciate to information about the sound deadening, never used it befored...have designed & installed many stereo systems in the past (before DynaMat~lol), so this is my 1st time working with it. Been taking a lot of photos & do plan on doing a build log on the forum...hopefully it will be beneficial for the other members. I know that I'll have a few more Camaro-specific questions to ask before this install is done, so I'm sure that there will be a lot more posts. Which reminds me...I need to call SubThumb. I need to purchase 2 sets of speaker adapters & the sub box, plus have a question or two.

Right now, I'm working on applying CLD to both the outer door skins & inner panels. Purchased a couple of thin sheets of perforated aluminum to construct removable access panels to cover the openings in the inner door panels. These panels will be covered in CDL, then attached with sheet metal screws, while overlaying the seams with Dynamat tape to complete the seal...will post pics.

Last edited by el Wulf; 05-06-2018 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 05-07-2018, 12:44 PM   #4
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Sounds like a great plan! How are you going to attach the panels...rivnuts?
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:56 PM   #5
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from what i can remember when looking this up there is little to no sound deadening in the rear half of the car. after the front seats it pretty much stops so any past the front seats will make a huge difference

edit: i've added sound deadener to 40~% of the trunk, 50~% of the rear speaker panel, under the rear seat, and some along the transmission tunnel. those spots alone made a major difference
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:15 PM   #6
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from what i can remember when looking this up there is little to no sound deadening in the rear half of the car. after the front seats it pretty much stops so any past the front seats will make a huge difference

edit: i've added sound deadener to 40~% of the trunk, 50~% of the rear speaker panel, under the rear seat, and some along the transmission tunnel. those spots alone made a major difference
That's an understatement....it's a rattle can from the front seats back~lol. I'd expect that out of a 1st or 2nd Gen but not with the newer models. At least, GM did add some beading around the larger panel openings. Looking forward to the day when the automotive manufacturer's get it right & put some thought into their audio design....like sealed speaker enclosures inside the door panels & under the rear deck.
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:25 PM   #7
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Sounds like a great plan! How are you going to attach the panels...rivnuts?
That's a GREAT idea~THANK YOU!!! Off to the hardware store to get some rivnuts & the insert tool....
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:50 PM   #8
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I used it for that, and put a wickerbill on my spoiler with it.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:55 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by el Wulf View Post
That's an understatement....it's a rattle can from the front seats back~lol. I'd expect that out of a 1st or 2nd Gen but not with the newer models. At least, GM did add some beading around the larger panel openings. Looking forward to the day when the automotive manufacturer's get it right & put some thought into their audio design....like sealed speaker enclosures inside the door panels & under the rear deck.
I still need to do the cabin floor and parcel shelf in mine. I did 100% coverage in the trunk, inner and outer door skins, spare tire well, and as much as I could reach in rear quarters. Also did Soundskins door kit over the cld in doors, and self adhesive ccf in trunk. I have ccf and mlv for parcel shelf, and a couple bags of denim insulation To stuff in rear quarters.
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:17 AM   #10
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I still need to do the cabin floor and parcel shelf in mine. I did 100% coverage in the trunk, inner and outer door skins, spare tire well, and as much as I could reach in rear quarters. Also did Soundskins door kit over the cld in doors, and self adhesive ccf in trunk. I have ccf and mlv for parcel shelf, and a couple bags of denim insulation To stuff in rear quarters.
SWEET!!!

Glad to see that I'm on the same page with everyone else!

The inner door panels are 85%~90% covered (50% of that coverage is layered with an additional sheet of CDL. The area behind the front speaker is triple layered (100%-100%-50%). Great job on getting 100% coverage...NOT an easy task! LOVE how GM ran that support beam all the way down into the speaker area~lol. How did you mount the Soundskin speaker tweaker with that beam there....I was thinking a 8" circle of 1/8"-1/4" ABS attached to that beam (centered behind the speaker) might work.

Borrowed a friend's Marsol kit for this job, though I see that Astro-Pneumatic has one that connects to a power drill for less than $100. Plus, A-P has a couple of pneumatic models in the $200-$275 range....might have to get back into the game~lol.

Last edited by el Wulf; 05-08-2018 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 05-08-2018, 08:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el Wulf View Post
That's an understatement....it's a rattle can from the front seats back~lol. I'd expect that out of a 1st or 2nd Gen but not with the newer models. At least, GM did add some beading around the larger panel openings. Looking forward to the day when the automotive manufacturer's get it right & put some thought into their audio design....like sealed speaker enclosures inside the door panels & under the rear deck.
yeah i was surprised when i pulled the rear seat and trunk panels in an attempt to cancel some drone. it kinda worked, but new mufflers helped more. now i've got a really quiet interior

have you ever used those foam speaker baffles? i'm tempted to order some and a little more dynamat for the doors, rear deck, and the 3/4 panels
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Old 05-08-2018, 11:51 AM   #12
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Do not use the foam speaker baffles, unless you plan to cut away everything but the top 10% of it. You are basically puting your speaker in a very tiny box where it will not breathe, and will probably fail due to thermal compression on the voice coil. Those should only be used as an umbrella to shield speaker from dripping water inside the door.
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:52 PM   #13
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Do not use the foam speaker baffles, unless you plan to cut away everything but the top 10% of it. You are basically puting your speaker in a very tiny box where it will not breathe, and will probably fail due to thermal compression on the voice coil. Those should only be used as an umbrella to shield speaker from dripping water inside the door.
dynamat it is then for the doors lol i may still buy them to use as umbrellas as you say
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:13 AM   #14
el Wulf
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
from what i can remember when looking this up there is little to no sound deadening in the rear half of the car. after the front seats it pretty much stops so any past the front seats will make a huge difference

edit: i've added sound deadener to 40~% of the trunk, 50~% of the rear speaker panel, under the rear seat, and some along the transmission tunnel. those spots alone made a major difference
NICE!!!

I see that you did the transmission tunnel...also plan to do so. Did you remove the carpet when doing this? I have all the seats & every panel pulled (including the front kick panels) out of the interior. Wanted to know if there is anything else (besides the center console) that needs to be removed before lifting up the carpet.
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