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Old 02-20-2012, 05:40 PM   #29
ecko04

 
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The front speakers are cake compared to the rear. I did the fronts about 3 weeks ago but just got around the the rear today. -__- <--- the face you will have throughout the entire process. The interior "engineer" who designer who came up with the bright idea to put every panel from the front seatbelt to the rear deck on top of the speakers wasn't the star pupil in school.
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:21 PM   #30
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How long did it take you for the first door? I just did my right door this morning in about 4 hours. That included Dynamat inside the door, then a 3/8" foam pad inside the door including double thickness behind the speaker. Then I sealed the door behind where the trim panel goes with Dynamat and 1/8" Dynapad in place of the factory mat that was on the door. Then installed the driver and tweeter as well as the crossover.

I fastened the crossover to the door with screws near the bottom of the door on the side facing the inside of the car. At the price of Focal K2 Power 165KRX2 speakers, I didn't want to take a chance of it getting wet inside the door. There was water inside the door when I pulled the trim off, there was a stong downpour on my way home from work this morning.

Now it's time for bed and a couple hours of sleep before doing another 12 hour shift. Hope I have enough energy to do the other door tomorrow morning.
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:33 AM   #31
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Wait, wtf. I have an install scheduled for Monday. Double din, scosche kit, 6.5 coax for the door and 6x9 coax for the rear.... So i need a new housing for the 6.5s? Or is that something an audio shop can figure out. Id hate to bring all my crap in only to find out they cant put those speakers in. What about the rears? do they just sit in the rear deck or do those need a new housing as well?
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:14 AM   #32
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question, the stock bracket has 1 screw, as you said, the ******** bracket has three holes from the picture, and when installed i see more than 1 screw holding the ******** bracket in. are there holes in the door frame already to use the other screws?
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:15 AM   #33
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I'm having a problem getting the cover underneath the door handle to come off. Is there a trick to getting it out?

It's the piece in the second picture on the first post.
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:29 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Martel View Post
These are the model speakers and head unit I used.

Kicker 07DS6502 DS-Series 6.5-Inch Component System with 20mm Tweeter

Kicker 07DS6930 DS-Series 6-Inch x 9-Inch 152mm X 229mm 3-Way Speaker

Pioneer AVH-P3300BT

The crossovers come with the speakers. When you're using component speakers, a crossover is needed to filter the lower end signal out as the tweeters are just for higher audio spectrum signals. Subs are for very low spectrum signals and generally there's a separate crossover to pass only the low end signal to the sub. High-pass filter for tweets. Low-pass filter for subs. Everything else can go to your front and rear speakers.

If you're going to replace anything, replace the head unit. It will make the stock speakers sound halfway decent. The stock speakers aren't rated very highly as far as power and that's why I swapped them out for the Kickers. I like to crank my music up, roll the windows down, and jam out as I'm cruising.

Question, Could you plastic dip the adapters to kill the moisture problem?
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:48 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
I'm having a problem getting the cover underneath the door handle to come off. Is there a trick to getting it out?

It's the piece in the second picture on the first post.
I use a 90° scribe. http://www.amazon.com/SE-pc-Scribe-P...cribe+pick+set

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Old 09-23-2012, 05:11 PM   #36
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Thanks.....I finally got it. Had to use a scribe like you showed.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:09 AM   #37
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I figured I would add to this thread to give a couple more shots and maybe it will help someone else down the road.

I bought a set of Kicker speakers from Crutchfield. I could've bought them about $40 cheaper somewhere else but they included the speaker adapters, a wiring plug for the OEM harness, decent install instructions with pictures, and phone support if I needed. If I would've had to buy ********s adapters it would've cost me the same going with the cheaper speaker vendor. Then add on the fact that the adapters are plasitic and don't need to be sealed this is definately the way to go.

In the pics you can see the stock speaker vs a speaker in new adapter, plus just the adapter. I cut the wiring plug that Crutchfield included, wired, sodered, and heat shrinked it to the crossover. I also cut the grommet in the door in order to run the wires for the tweaters. I placed the crossover up as high as I could but still with the ablility to reach in and change the settings if needed.

Once I figured out how to get the cover under the door handle off the rest was super easy.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:00 AM   #38
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I would not have put my crossover on the outside of the moisture barrier. Now jt will be exposed to the elements.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:20 AM   #39
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Sorry to necro this thread, but the information is still useful enough to warrant being seen again, and I have a question about it.

Does anyone have clear pictures on placement for a crossover inside the moister barrier so as to avoid the issues people were talking about in this useful thread?
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:45 PM   #40
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u gotta take the whole door panel off to access the tweeters? i got 2 bose tweeters iwanna replace the factory ones
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:55 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredbo View Post
u gotta take the whole door panel off to access the tweeters? i got 2 bose tweeters iwanna replace the factory ones
The tweeter pods pop right off. No need to remove the door panel.
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:24 PM   #42
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Olde but Goode .... Saved me a serious headache
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