02-20-2012, 05:40 PM | #29 |
Drives: Too many to list Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Coast Runner
Posts: 878
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The front speakers are cake compared to the rear. I did the fronts about 3 weeks ago but just got around the the rear today. -__- <--- the face you will have throughout the entire process. The interior "engineer" who designer who came up with the bright idea to put every panel from the front seatbelt to the rear deck on top of the speakers wasn't the star pupil in school.
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03-03-2012, 12:21 PM | #30 |
Helping Build America
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS,LS3 2013 Duramax 3500HD Join Date: Aug 2008
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How long did it take you for the first door? I just did my right door this morning in about 4 hours. That included Dynamat inside the door, then a 3/8" foam pad inside the door including double thickness behind the speaker. Then I sealed the door behind where the trim panel goes with Dynamat and 1/8" Dynapad in place of the factory mat that was on the door. Then installed the driver and tweeter as well as the crossover.
I fastened the crossover to the door with screws near the bottom of the door on the side facing the inside of the car. At the price of Focal K2 Power 165KRX2 speakers, I didn't want to take a chance of it getting wet inside the door. There was water inside the door when I pulled the trim off, there was a stong downpour on my way home from work this morning. Now it's time for bed and a couple hours of sleep before doing another 12 hour shift. Hope I have enough energy to do the other door tomorrow morning.
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04-27-2012, 12:33 AM | #31 |
Drives: 2011 Summit White LS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: AZ
Posts: 338
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Wait, wtf. I have an install scheduled for Monday. Double din, scosche kit, 6.5 coax for the door and 6x9 coax for the rear.... So i need a new housing for the 6.5s? Or is that something an audio shop can figure out. Id hate to bring all my crap in only to find out they cant put those speakers in. What about the rears? do they just sit in the rear deck or do those need a new housing as well?
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09-19-2012, 10:14 AM | #32 |
Drives: 2010 LS Barebones 6MT Camaro Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 9
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question, the stock bracket has 1 screw, as you said, the ******** bracket has three holes from the picture, and when installed i see more than 1 screw holding the ******** bracket in. are there holes in the door frame already to use the other screws?
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09-23-2012, 09:15 AM | #33 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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I'm having a problem getting the cover underneath the door handle to come off. Is there a trick to getting it out?
It's the piece in the second picture on the first post.
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09-23-2012, 10:29 AM | #34 | |
Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 3,398
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Quote:
Question, Could you plastic dip the adapters to kill the moisture problem?
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09-23-2012, 10:48 AM | #35 | |
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Quote:
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09-23-2012, 05:11 PM | #36 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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Thanks.....I finally got it. Had to use a scribe like you showed.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
09-24-2012, 10:09 AM | #37 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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I figured I would add to this thread to give a couple more shots and maybe it will help someone else down the road.
I bought a set of Kicker speakers from Crutchfield. I could've bought them about $40 cheaper somewhere else but they included the speaker adapters, a wiring plug for the OEM harness, decent install instructions with pictures, and phone support if I needed. If I would've had to buy ********s adapters it would've cost me the same going with the cheaper speaker vendor. Then add on the fact that the adapters are plasitic and don't need to be sealed this is definately the way to go. In the pics you can see the stock speaker vs a speaker in new adapter, plus just the adapter. I cut the wiring plug that Crutchfield included, wired, sodered, and heat shrinked it to the crossover. I also cut the grommet in the door in order to run the wires for the tweaters. I placed the crossover up as high as I could but still with the ablility to reach in and change the settings if needed. Once I figured out how to get the cover under the door handle off the rest was super easy.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
09-25-2012, 08:00 AM | #38 |
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I would not have put my crossover on the outside of the moisture barrier. Now jt will be exposed to the elements.
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05-17-2013, 11:20 AM | #39 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1SS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 171
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Sorry to necro this thread, but the information is still useful enough to warrant being seen again, and I have a question about it.
Does anyone have clear pictures on placement for a crossover inside the moister barrier so as to avoid the issues people were talking about in this useful thread? |
05-18-2013, 12:45 PM | #40 |
u gotta take the whole door panel off to access the tweeters? i got 2 bose tweeters iwanna replace the factory ones
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05-18-2013, 01:55 PM | #41 |
Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS / Black 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: El Paso, Texas
Posts: 314
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05-18-2013, 02:24 PM | #42 |
HTCC Member
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Olde but Goode .... Saved me a serious headache
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