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Old 05-31-2017, 05:32 PM   #29
Aaron0731
 
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Originally Posted by Grabber View Post
I'm sure we will enjoy our overpriced product.

As a guy (myself) that's been detailing in the neighborhood of 15 years (33 now), started from using the worst possible products and making mistakes throughout the years and learned from scratch, I find that there is always a better product.

You're calling us clueless, but, are swearing by a product that offers artificial benefits that only cover up the imperfections.

Since you're a master detailer, what is your setup? Flex, Rupes, Griots, PC, etc.

What type of polishes/sealants do you use?

Food for thought:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...shing-wax.html

Let me guess, the folks at AG are clueless, too, right?
Why are you showing me that like link? I guess I'll repeat: If your paint is in perfect shape there is nothing else you need to other then proper washing and applying a quality cleaner wax periodically. And clay if you get contaminants. As far as what I use I like the Griots machine and Mothers and 3D products. But I dont buy a bunch of polishes and compounds because my car doesn't need it. Once you get it to where you are satisfied there's no need for anymore of that stuff if it's properly maintained.
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Old 05-31-2017, 05:49 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
Compounding alone will not produce the best finish, a finishing polish is required to maximize gloss.

Compound removes the defects, finishing polish brings out the gloss.

Since my car was polished with Essence on 10-16-2016, and sealed with Reload, the only thing I have to do is wash it with Hydrofoam to top off the protection, once every 3 months.

No application of product by spreading on, allowing to dry, and then having to buff off after it cures. Wash, rinse, pool, dry what little water is left, done.
This leaves protection that no cleaner wax can, it's highly resistant to any solvents or acids.



It lasts at least 3 months on it's own on a non-garaged car. Where cleaner wax goes a month, with very little resistance to acids or solvents.

The base sealant of Reload is extremely durable, I'm on over 7 months and it's still providing excellent protection. Try this with the sealant your using, wash it with a 10ph soap, 5 washes with a 12ph APC, another wash with an acidic cleaner of 4ph. Your cleaner wax will be gone after the first wash, your sealant will be gone after the second APC wash.



No hype, no marketing, just high quality products that protect my paint like no other in their class.
Right on man!

I'm enjoying the McKee's 37 coating I put on last summer on the Durango.

So far, still has great beading and is still doing it's job, despite the car being covered in salt for months and months before a wash.

The wheel coating is holding up as well, and the glass coating I put on only lasted about 4 months.
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Old 05-31-2017, 06:02 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Aaron0731 View Post
Why are you showing me that like link? I guess I'll repeat: If your paint is in perfect shape there is nothing else you need to other then proper washing and applying a quality cleaner wax periodically. And clay if you get contaminants. As far as what I use I like the Griots machine and Mothers and 3D products. But I dont buy a bunch of polishes and compounds because my car doesn't need it. Once you get it to where you are satisfied there's no need for anymore of that stuff if it's properly maintained.
If your doing other peoples cars besides your own, you need different compounds and polishes. Not every car responds the same to the same compound/polish/pad combination. Paints vary in hardness from one car to another.

Cleaner wax was developed around 1950. This is 2017. There are totally different things for paint protection that outlast, out-protect, and are easier to use.

The reason why cleaner wax is sold at Wal-Mart and the auto chains is for the general public who want something cheap that gives short term results.

I'd rather buy quality to protect my paint better, longer, and make washing/drying easier.

I had the Griots machine at one point. It is a good machine, but the Rupes 21 gets the job done faster, better, and with less vibration reducing fatigue.

If you want to use a wax product for protection, throw away the cleaner wax and use Collinite 845.
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Old 05-31-2017, 06:19 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Grabber View Post
Right on man!

I'm enjoying the McKee's 37 coating I put on last summer on the Durango.

So far, still has great beading and is still doing it's job, despite the car being covered in salt for months and months before a wash.

The wheel coating is holding up as well, and the glass coating I put on only lasted about 4 months.
Coatings provide very good long term protection, I've put them on several cars I've paint corrected and the owners really like them.

If I had a garage, I'd definitely have one on my car.
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:01 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
Coatings provide very good long term protection, I've put them on several cars I've paint corrected and the owners really like them.

If I had a garage, I'd definitely have one on my car.
Definitely the way to go.

I'm trying to find a dealer for Ceramic pro for the wife's volt. Maybe down the line I'll track someone down to buy some.

I think you can pull it off without a garage man. One spot at a time and it dries within probably 30 seconds. Just needs cure time. I see your point, wind, dust, dirt blowing on the car, could prove to be challenging.

Honestly, a part of me wishes I had more time to work on cars. I've got a PC, Flex 3401 and Rupes BF 15 waiting for some action, lol.
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:30 PM   #34
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Definitely the way to go.

I'm trying to find a dealer for Ceramic pro for the wife's volt. Maybe down the line I'll track someone down to buy some.

I think you can pull it off without a garage man. One spot at a time and it dries within probably 30 seconds. Just needs cure time. I see your point, wind, dust, dirt blowing on the car, could prove to be challenging.

Honestly, a part of me wishes I had more time to work on cars. I've got a PC, Flex 3401 and Rupes BF 15 waiting for some action, lol.
Water getting on the car before curing is what stops me. Most coatings require at least 24 hours cure time, and if any water gets on it, it leaves water spots that wont come off.

The dew settles on my car every night, so I'd have a mess in the morning.

But I'm very happy with Essence, topped with Reload, and a once every 3 month wash with Hydrofoam.

Bird bombs don't get to the clear coat, bug splatter doesn't either, and the paint is very hydrophobic, which means less dirt and easier drying.
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:49 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
Water getting on the car before curing is what stops me. Most coatings require at least 24 hours cure time, and if any water gets on it, it leaves water spots that wont come off.

The dew settles on my car every night, so I'd have a mess in the morning.

But I'm very happy with Essence, topped with Reload, and a once every 3 month wash with Hydrofoam.

Bird bombs don't get to the clear coat, bug splatter doesn't either, and the paint is very hydrophobic, which means less dirt and easier drying.
Sounds like more trouble than it's worth man.

Glad essence and reload do the job!

Hopefully you get yourself a garage sometime in the near future man!
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:52 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
If your doing other peoples cars besides your own, you need different compounds and polishes. Not every car responds the same to the same compound/polish/pad combination. Paints vary in hardness from one car to another.

Cleaner wax was developed around 1950. This is 2017. There are totally different things for paint protection that outlast, out-protect, and are easier to use.

The reason why cleaner wax is sold at Wal-Mart and the auto chains is for the general public who want something cheap that gives short term results.

I'd rather buy quality to protect my paint better, longer, and make washing/drying easier.

I had the Griots machine at one point. It is a good machine, but the Rupes 21 gets the job done faster, better, and with less vibration reducing fatigue.

If you want to use a wax product for protection, throw away the cleaner wax and use Collinite 845.
They've been around so long because they are proven and they work if used as intended. Don't overthink it.
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:43 PM   #37
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They've been around so long because they are proven and they work if used as intended. Don't overthink it.
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Old 06-02-2017, 10:31 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Aaron0731 View Post
Why are you showing me that like link? I guess I'll repeat: If your paint is in perfect shape there is nothing else you need to other then proper washing and applying a quality cleaner wax periodically. And clay if you get contaminants. As far as what I use I like the Griots machine and Mothers and 3D products. But I dont buy a bunch of polishes and compounds because my car doesn't need it. Once you get it to where you are satisfied there's no need for anymore of that stuff if it's properly maintained.
^^^ Exactly !!
I'm with you. I get annoyed at guys here who think just because you purchase a
product at Walmart it's no good. My Summit White SS is now 8 years old and the
finish is still like new. I detail a panel or two a week by hand using nothing but
MeGuires Cleaner Wax followed by a coat of New Car Wax. Both great products.
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:36 AM   #39
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We never said anything about walmart not having good/bad products.

I posted the link specifically because AG has a lot more experience than all of us combined with their detailer's and they explain the point of a cleaner wax.

I was all about autozone, walmart and target detailing supplies for years. Then, I ventured out and tried these "oh so expensive items" as you guys have said and couldn't be happier. There is a right tool, and while these are not bad products, there are BETTER products out there if you're willing to pay for them.

Just a few quotes from the webpage:

A cleaner/wax is best used on a neglected finish because a neglected finish needs to be cleaned. Cleaner/Waxes, or All-In-One products are designed for a large market which includes do-it-yourselfers and detailers that want to restore a bright, shiny finish to the paint but want to do it in one-step. Their goal is to get a great looking finish without having to invest the time and effort associated with a multiple-step approach which usually includes,

Dedicated compounding or paint cleaning step
Dedicated polishing or glazing step
Dedicated sealing step using a finishing wax or finishing paint sealant

A cleaner/wax doesn't need to be used, and in most cases shouldn't be used, on a car in which the paint is in excellent condition, for example a brand new car or an older car in which the paint has been properly cleaned and polished. For finishes on both of these types of cars the paint would be better served using a finishing wax or finishing sealant.
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2014 5.0 - Ported CobraJet Manifold - SCJ Mono-Blade TB - Kooks 1-3/4" LT Headers - Kooks O/R H-pipe - Custom Intake - McLeod clutch line - Borla S-Type Axle Backs - AED Tuned - 443 RWHP / 388 RWTQ - GONE
05 GT - Sold
03 Cobra - Gone (Never Forgotten)
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Old 06-02-2017, 06:37 PM   #40
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I've used cleaner wax off and on since 1983.

It doesn't provide much protection. It will make a car with defects look better because it fills imperfections. In a couple months at best, it's gone.

Unless your car is a weekend only garage queen, or a show car, and it's driven more than it's detailed, a paint sealant provides better protection.

Carpro Reload is the best sealant I've used, because of how resistant it is to acids.

If you drive your car, it's a given you'll get bird bombs on it, and bug splatter. Both of these are highly acidic, and will go though cleaner wax and into your clear coat in no time.

I've had bird bombs and bugs on my car which had to sit in the hot summer sun for 4 hours before I could remove them. Reload hasn't allowed any etching in my paint at all.

Essence and Reload applied 10-16-16.

Two pics from a few days ago during a rainstorm lull. First is the beading, second is after a quick pooling rinse, you can see over 90% of the water is gone.

No cleaner wax will ever provide this type of protection, length of durability, and a hydrophobic surface. Money well spent for all the hours I spent initially correcting my paint.
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Old 06-03-2017, 09:38 AM   #41
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^^^ I realize the cleaner wax does little to protect the finish. That's why I follow up with
the New Car Wax paste, also from Wax Mart. I've been using the cleaner wax on my 8
year old Summit White SS since I got it. I also use it by hand on all my antique cars over
the years. This black Olds 88 always looks like a million bucks when I would detail it for
the car shows. Thats dust on the finish, not chips.
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Old 06-03-2017, 05:25 PM   #42
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That black olds isn't daily driven, isn't parked outside 24/7, and spends more time in the garage then it does on the road. It's supposed to look good.

For those of us who actually drive our cars more then we detail them, good protection is a necessity to protect the finish.

So do I want a product that provides very little protection, or one that provides excellent protection along with long durability?

Only one logical answer.
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