pedders coilover guys look here

[ddavis]

Since its crappy weather out at the moment I thought I would go ahead and install my pedders xa coilovers. I have my stock spring/strut off and in the process of reassembling the stock parts on the coilover but cant seem to find this rubber piece. This was not included in the box and my stocker doesnt seem to have it. Where it looks like the gasket should go I just have yellow foam. Is this just the foam piece in black or am I missing something?

[ddavis]

looks like i found out why they are different. They changed the part on the later camaro's. Looks like I remove these completely based on this thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...coilovers+foam

The instructions say to add this piece, while the forum says remove it. The install guide needs to be updated or something to clear this up.

[JusticePete]

Remove the foam and steel insulator that is on the bottom side of the OE strut mount. The aluminum ring in the coilover kit replaces it.

[JusticePete]

How did your installation go?

[ddavis]

thanks i got it sorted. overall it went pretty well. That picture just confused me since i didnt have the same pieces all in front of me. My height adjustment is off though. I set the 12mm distance between the 2 locknuts and ended up with a 639mm height from the bottom of the rim to the bottom fender edge instead of the 645mm the installation metioned I would have. Makes me wonder if I preloaded to much since the height adjustments didnt reference correctly. I do have aftermarket tires 275/40/20 in the front and a supercharger under the hood though, so maybe its from the extra weight?

[JusticePete]

Do you happen to have a before ride height measurement?

[ddavis]

Yeh but I was on eibach springs, so not stock. 647mm

[JusticePete]

Could be the SC weight or it could be the preset or it could be 2mm of one and 3mm of another. Either way, it should not be an issue.

[ddavis]

Ok, thats good to hear. The height is the same on both sides since i matched each side up to the corresponding side, just the overall height was a little lower then expected on the front. Everything else went on well. Car is getting a custom alignment on friday so I will see how it goes then. Any certain specs you would recommend for the alignment since I have a supercharger and some extra weight on the nose?

[JusticePete]

The first step in proper alignment on a lowered car is to break loose the bolts at every rotational suspension bolt. That would include the the radius and inner control arm bolts up front. In the rear, the trailing arm, toe link, upper and lower control arm at the knuckle and he lower inner. The car then should be at least bounced. The preferred method is driven gently slowly around the ship parking lot. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels all the bolts are made tight. This process times the bonded ferule OEM rubber bushes to the new ride height.

Timing the bushings balances the car. The rotational resistance in the bushes is a second set of springs in the car. If they are not timed to the new ride height they are creating uneven loads as the car moves over a bump. The suspension will function correctly with the bushes timed and will also last longer.

A conservative performance alignment would look like this.

Front

max out the camber
Toe set to ZERO
Camber -1

Rear
Toe ZERO
Thrust Angle ZERO
Camber -.5

This setup will help with turn in, steering feel, reduce understeer and help square up the rear tires on a hard launch.

[ddavis]

k, thanks for the info. I timed the bushings when the eibach springs went in, but guess I will need the alignment shop to retime the new setup now. The alignment shop I go to seems to handle alot of pedderized cars and seem to have their act together from my past visits. They are called custom alignment in mountain view,ca if you know of them. Looking forward to the upgrade

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by ddavis

k, thanks for the info. I timed the bushings when the eibach springs went in, but guess I will need the alignment shop to retime the new setup now. The alignment shop I go to seems to handle alot of pedderized cars and seem to have their act together from my past visits. They are called custom alignment in mountain view,ca if you know of them. Looking forward to the upgrade

They are very good and a Pedders Dealer.

[Redemption]

D,

You cant go wrong with Custom Alignment. There are very few places that I would LEAVE my car and come back later to pick it up. This is one of them. Even though some of the guys in the shop are a little on the young side, they are VERY knowledgeable and respectful of all cars.

The guy behind the counter (Name slips my mind at the moment) has been there FOREVER. He's a funny ole coot, and is full of piss and vinegar... I true joy to just listen to when he's on the phone with people. Reality TV at its finest.


Back to your question.... If there was anything that I would like explained better in the install instructions would be the preload setting on the springs.. (PETE). I think mines fine, but everytime I check them, the lock rings are loose. SO I am thinking that I dont have enough preload to help keep that tight. But I dunno?

Crank the settings up high and enjoy!

Oh yeah....

Jason

[JusticePete]

Lock ring coming loose will require the pre-load to be reset. All the pre-load you need is 2mm front and rear. Snug them back up and then use a brass drift and hammer to set the lock ring. We supply wrenches to tighten them, but I am old school. A couple of hammer wraps to the brass drift and the lock rings will NOT come loose. You cannot use a screw driver or other steel implement. Those are chisels. NO chisels or center punches, nail sets -- just a brass drift.