Dumb Question about boost

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

Thanks everyone for the answers. My tuner told me based on past logs I am making boost, I think I made him laugh a little. I am definitely going to adjust the angle of my actuator after seeing this video.
This puts me back to the gauge and my location. As others have pointed out my gauge is reading vacuum and sets back to 0 so it is reacting to pressure from the line. So I guess so am not on a boost point? The upper stem is what I am using for the gauge, my Hobbs and the fuel regulator.
I used to have the lower stem capped off and had the actuator running off of the upper stem and T’d off lines for gauge, Hobbs and regulator. Now the actuator is off of the lower stem, which may be vacuum?
I really appreciate all of the help in getting this all figured out.

The lower 2 ports are before the blower, they will only see vacuum.

https://www.ctsvowners.com/threads/b...roblems.38468/

Larry provided this link in your last post. Move your actuator back to the top or better yet. Get yourself a boost/vacuum manifold and run all your accessories there. You have a mess going on there... you need better coms with your tuner. If you move stuff around, he needs to know.

[Valkyrie14]

So I think I have my hoses figured out. I had a guy put a vacuum gauge on the ports and we raved the engine enough to show vacuum enough for him to be satisfied that I have the hoses in the right place.
My boost gauge is still only showing vacuum. So I turned to my last few logs to see if I had boost. On HP I am looking at the Supercharger Inlet Pressure channel on my logs and it shows 0.0 the whole time. I am guessing that this channel is boost.
If that is the boost channel then I have some serious issues.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

So I think I have my hoses figured out. I had a guy put a vacuum gauge on the ports and we raved the engine enough to show vacuum enough for him to be satisfied that I have the hoses in the right place.
My boost gauge is still only showing vacuum. So I turned to my last few logs to see if I had boost. On HP I am looking at the Supercharger Inlet Pressure channel on my logs and it shows 0.0 the whole time. I am guessing that this channel is boost.
If that is the boost channel then I have some serious issues.

In order to log boost in a Chart:

Make sure you have Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure added to the Channel List (on the left side)

Right click on the black area called Charts. Click Charts Layout. Add (or edit) a series, label it boost. Click on Parameter. When the window pops up go to the bottom where it says MATHS/airflow/boost. Click on BOOST.

Can you post a new picture of where your bypass solenoid is connected?

[Valkyrie14]

Here is the hose set up. The top outlet on the blower goes to the actuator inlet on the top. The bottom inlet on the actuator is capped off. The outlet on the base of the blower is the hose that ultimately runs to my boost gauge. Along the way the hose t’s off to the fuel regulator and t’s off again for the Hobbs switch.

The boost gauge only shows vacuum.

My tuner looked at a series of my tunes and says I hit 5 psi, but I wasn’t at WOT. I opened it up today and found out that a governor kicks in when I hit redline. I want to think it is just a bad gauge. And if that is true then I guess I am also disappointed that I only hit 5 psi while driving in a manner I would in the real world.

I want to confirm I am getting the most out of my current set up and don’t have a leak, worn gasket or compression loss somewhere internally. For all I know it is running fine right now and I have a crappy gauge.

[Valkyrie14]

The braided line goes to my catch can.

[Valkyrie14]

If the lower two ports are only vacuum I don’t know where else to go to measure boost there aren’t any other ports. I see someone tapped into the MAP on the driver’s side. I’m not crazy about drilling a hole and I’m pretty sure my drill isn’t up for the job.

I’m out of ideas on where to get boost.

[dru21281]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

Here is the hose set up. The top outlet on the blower goes to the actuator inlet on the top. The bottom inlet on the actuator is capped off. The outlet on the base of the blower is the hose that ultimately runs to my boost gauge. Along the way the hose t’s off to the fuel regulator and t’s off again for the Hobbs switch.

The boost gauge only shows vacuum.

My tuner looked at a series of my tunes and says I hit 5 psi, but I wasn’t at WOT. I opened it up today and found out that a governor kicks in when I hit redline. I want to think it is just a bad gauge. And if that is true then I guess I am also disappointed that I only hit 5 psi while driving in a manner I would in the real world.

I want to confirm I am getting the most out of my current set up and don’t have a leak, worn gasket or compression loss somewhere internally. For all I know it is running fine right now and I have a crappy gauge.

The bottom port on the bypass valve should be open (not capped). With it capped off it will not work properly as it will not let air in/out on that side of the bypass. There's a rubber diagram inside sealing off the 2 ends(vac and boost).
Remove the cap, close the bypass arm manually then put your finger on that port. It should hold the arm closed until you remove your finger and slam open.

If it doesn't hold the arm closed indefinitely when your finger is sealing it then the diaphragm is torn and bypass to be replaced. As long as the bypass diaphragm isn't torn, leaving the lower port open is fine since it's sealed.
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[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by dru21281

The bottom port on the bypass valve should be open (not capped). With it capped off it will not work properly as it will not let air in/out on that side of the bypass. There's a rubber diagram inside sealing off the 2 ends(vac and boost).
Remove the cap, close the bypass arm manually then put your finger on that port. It should hold the arm closed until you remove your finger and slam open.

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That makes sense and an easy test. If it doesn’t hold open then my actuator is bad?

[dru21281]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

That makes sense and an easy test. If it doesn’t hold open then my actuator is bad?

Yes if the arm moves back it means that the rubber inside is not sealed completely. Having that cap on it may have caused it to rip(since the arm can't move putting excessive pressure on the rubber) , but sometimes they rip with age and use.

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[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by dru21281

Yes if the arm moves back it means that the rubber inside is not sealed completely. Having that cap on it may have caused it to rip(since the arm can't move putting excessive pressure on the rubber) , but sometimes they rip with age and use.

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I pulled the cap off. I fully engaged to the arm and plugged the hole with my finger. The arm the arm went back about 75% of the way before I released my finger. When I released my finger it slammed shut the rest of the way.

Is this normal? Or do I maybe have a partial tear of the diaphragm?

[dru21281]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

I pulled the cap off. I fully engaged to the arm and plugged the hole with my finger. The arm the arm went back about 75% of the way before I released my finger. When I released my finger it slammed shut the rest of the way.

Is this normal? Or do I maybe have a partial tear of the diaphragm?

It most likely has a small tear. Mine stays stays open almost all the way(only for very slight movement initially while the spring compresses the air inside) while doing the same test. I can keep my finger on there for a minute w/no further movement.

So the tear may be small and located in such a way that it may seal itself depending on the movement of the arm as it stretches in/out.

If you have a mityvac you can also use it to test the port and see if vacuum changes once pumped up to 10-15in/hg.



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[Batmanntexas]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

So I think I have my hoses figured out. I had a guy put a vacuum gauge on the ports and we raved the engine enough to show vacuum enough for him to be satisfied that I have the hoses in the right place.
My boost gauge is still only showing vacuum. So I turned to my last few logs to see if I had boost. On HP I am looking at the Supercharger Inlet Pressure channel on my logs and it shows 0.0 the whole time. I am guessing that this channel is boost.
If that is the boost channel then I have some serious issues.

If nobody ever told you, you can't get a car to make boost by revving it in Park/Neutral. There has to be some load on the motor to ever see positive pressure (ok, maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 psi at initial throttle stab....maybe).

Hope you get it figured out!

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by Batmanntexas

If nobody ever told you, you can't get a car to make boost by revving it in Park/Neutral. There has to be some load on the motor to ever see positive pressure (ok, maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 psi at initial throttle stab....maybe).

Hope you get it figured out!

I think that was mentioned earlier, I didn’t know it before though. I have a boost actuator on its way and I hope that makes a difference. I am also looking at getting a MAP adapter and I will take boost right from the sensor.

I am looking at a new AEM boost gauge, but I don’t quite understand where the harness pigtail want to plug in.

My tuner reassured me that I am making boost, but only about 5 psi. I really wasn’t on it though. So hitting 7 psi is probably where I am at. So I am really just trying to figure out how to best get a boost line to my Hobbs switch, fuel regulator and gauge.

I want everything working nice and if I have any leaks I want to sort that out. There are more mods coming down the road and I want to keep a solid base.

[eLeSthree]

You best option is a vacuum manifold T'd into your brake booster line. The brake booster line is larger, about 1/2 inch or so, so it can feed multiple devices/ports. I picked one up from Amazon for like $12 that came with different size fittings.

Something like this. Or you can spend more, if you dont want a chinese one.
https://www.amazon.com/Tickas-Wasteg...890711&sr=8-10


I would feed the vacuum manifold with the larger line, then the devices with the smaller ports. I have 2 tial bov's, 1 adj fuel pressure switch, and 1 adj FPR on mine.