Best 3 modifications to rear, to gain traction?

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

I missed that. I had the alignment done from a great shop, and it did make an improvement. But still have major traction issues. The fix is here.

Everything I need to do a 15 inch conversion.
BMR LCAs
BMR Coil over conversion
Strange double adj coilovers
Racestar 15x10s and MT ET Street Rs 325/50/15s

Picking up the Carlyle brakes this week from another board member.

I think this should solve my traction problems, but it will probably initiate the good ole "axle delete" mod.

Looking for any tips on installing the BMR Coilover conversion plates. Directions say trimming of the shock mounts are necessary. Anyone care to elaborate on that?

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

Oh I wouldnt try it in the car. Getting it to the bench is half the fun. Give me 3 weeks on 15s and I'll be shopping for a ZL1 rear cradle drop out. I'll do the bushings then.

Nobody has done the BMR coilover conversion?

Originally Posted by Aries240SS

I've done the BMR 15" kit, offset diff bushings, and cradle inserts.

I have 4.30 gears and a 6 speed along with the DSS 1500hp axles. No problems with breaking things since.

There is a lot of bad info out there about "If you do this, you'll break that." Instead of worrying about what you'll break when, do your research and set the car up properly for the surface you'll be racing on and you'll experience far less breakage.

Yea, thanks for making it easy.

[Neumatic]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

Looking for any tips on installing the BMR Coilover conversion plates. Directions say trimming of the shock mounts are necessary. Anyone care to elaborate on that?

You trim the opening where the factory struts bolt to the floor. Its so the top mount of the coilover can fit in the hole and then is bolted down by the factory bolts. Thought I had a picture of mine but it seems to be the only thing I didn't take a picture of when I did my suspension and diff.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by Neumatic

You trim the opening where the factory struts bolt to the floor. Its so the top mount of the coilover can fit in the hole and then is bolted down by the factory bolts. Thought I had a picture of mine but it seems to be the only thing I didn't take a picture of when I did my suspension and diff.

Thanks. I pulled the car apart last night and figured it out when the bmr plate didnt fit. Picked up my jig saw from work today and I'll knock it out tomorrow.

[Neumatic]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

Thanks. I pulled the car apart last night and figured it out when the bmr plate didnt fit. Picked up my jig saw from work today and I'll knock it out tomorrow.

Good deal. It’s pretty easy, not a whole lot of material needs removed. Word to the wise make sure you have your parking brake cable tied back real good. Mine moved on me and rubbed my 15” welds the first time I tied them back.

[eLeSthree]

I didnt get the bmr anti-rollbar yet and the stock one wont work with these control arms. Do you think I’ll be alright without a swaybar for a while?

[Neumatic]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

I didnt get the bmr anti-rollbar yet and the stock one wont work with these control arms. Do you think I’ll be alright without a swaybar for a while?

It'd be fine to drive around but as far as racing it? I personally wouldn't. However im no expert and I don't really know how the car would act. In theory if weight transfer was even it should be fine and leave straight, but if you get some body roll? Seems like a recipe for a wild ride to me.

Speaking of sway bars/anti roll bars, unhooking (or removing) the front sway bar will help with weight transfer.

[demonspeed]

Sure you can drive it, but it’ll handle like crap.

[eLeSthree]

Ordered.