Ashen 6.2 2014 Z/SS

[Ashen 6.2]

Thanks SSEssence!

[CALLAWAY11]

Originally Posted by Ashen 6.2

Thanks 907 Chad. While I'm happy with the graphite wheels, wish I had gone with the black since adding all of the Z28 stuff.

Hey there, your build is awesome. Your car looks great and its nice to see you doing everything. I wish I had that garage and all those clamps, lol. That’s the most clamps Ive seen someone own, lol, just kidding but I had my wheels powder coated locally and its a really cheap and a better option in my opinion. I live in the detroit metro area and its like 50 a wheel to get powder coated. Just a suggestion.

[Ashen 6.2]

Thanks Callaway11!

I’ve checked with several places within driving distance and the costs are anywhere from $80 to $140 per wheel. I did find a place that will dis-mount, remove the TPMS / reinstall TPMS, mount and balance for $150.

[Ashen 6.2]

I had a few extra minutes this afternoon so I ran the wires for the PCMofNC fan switch. A big thanks to Don (Hammdo) for showing pictures of how he ran his AFR guage wires through the firewall. I followed the same routing and ran it through a grommet in the cabin air filter box. I haven’t wired it up yet or mounted the switch but this part is done. I will post pics when I finish the rest.

Here is a pic of the hole from the cabin air filter box





Here is a pic from under the passenger side dash

[Ashen 6.2]

Here is a pic from after the harness was ran through and the grommet put back into place.




After running it through to the engine compartment.





Then around the shock tower and underneath the ABS module up to the fuse box.

[Ashen 6.2]

Differential repair time is getting close.. I had a few burnouts at the track with just the right wheel spinning and did hear some noise (growling) from the rear . On the street from a dead stop the car still leaves very dark tracks from both rear tires but I know its time is limited here. Have started looking at repair or upgrading the diff.

I am looking locally to see if there is a decent shop that can do the work rather than taking the diff to GPI (3.5 hrs one way).

Aaron at GPI says they can rebuild and add additional clutch packs.

Looking at one of these -

[hammdo]

GPI did rebuild my old setup. No issues at all but, only for a drag setup. I shipped my diff to them.

Love the Eaton though — so far, great for my setup. Bought the Eaton from DynoSteve, GPI did the setup for me (drove the diff to them that time), I installed (both times).

-Don

[Ashen 6.2]

Don - did you have the Eaton for the drag set up as well?

[Ashen 6.2]

Finally got around to finishing the fan switch installation. Wasn't too bad EXCEPT for getting the wires out of the wire harness. That was a PITA (as others have posted).

Started with disconnecting the battery.

Here is a pic of the fuse box with the 3 bolts loosened up. Not sure why they have you loosen all 3 though. You really only need to loosen the one closest to the engine.




Removed the power source




This is what it looks like after its separated from the base. To do this you must use a screw diver to pry the tabs back while pulling up. Its pretty easy.




This is the bundle that you need to work with




After its been pulled out of the base.




To make it easier, I also popped this wire loom connection loose so I had more room to work.




You will need to remove the gray locks from the wire loom. To do this you will need a small screw driver and push down while also pushing the lock out.




Pic of the wire side of the connector




I didn't get any pics of trying to get the wires loose, but with the kit was 2 paper clips that were intended to help get these wires out. I tried using them before getting out a small screwdriver to help with this process.




Here is a pic of the small screw driver. I think its a eye glass screw driver..

[Ashen 6.2]

Continuing on -


Pushed the new wires into the connector, and then pushed the wires from the connector into the new connector that was supplied with the kit.




New connector




I also cut the wire ties that were on the fuse box connector. I replaced those when putting it all back together.



Also, don't forget to put the grey locks back into the connector before reinstalling.. like I did...



After getting it back together, the new connection tucks up underneath the existing wire looms.



Fuse box is back together.




Decided to put the switch into the side of the console. Its out of the way but easy to reach when needed.




Finished pic.




Works as described. All in all it was a pretty easy project except for getting the wires to release from the fuse box connector. Would do it again and will try it next time I'm at the track.

[Ashen 6.2]

Pulled the diff over the weekend with some help from my buddy. Its at the shop now getting the Eaton Tru-trac installed and hope to have that back in later this week or over the weekend if time allows.
While the car is in the air this week I'm planning on changing the trans fluid, oil and installing a Hurst Roll Control line lock.

[Ashen 6.2]

Diff is back in the car and the line lock is completed. Didn't get any pics other than the line lock after it was installed.

For the line lock, I took power from the console power receptacle (or cigarette lighter) and placed a in line fuse prior to the activation switch. The activation switch is neatly tucked into the power receptacle underneath the lid. The trigger switch is on the left side of the console beside the shifter.

The downs side is that every time I have used the line lock, it’s setting an error code with the Stabiltrak. The only way I have found to reset that is to disconnect/reconnect the battery.. will do some more reading on that to see if there is anything I can do to stop that from happening. May just have to pull the ABS fuses when at the track.

While the tru-trac doesn’t have any “break in” period, I will probably drive to for a week or two and swap out the oil. It’s quester than it was before under normal driving. I really haven’t gotten on it much just yet.

[QUICRNU]

My previous car had the Hurst Roll Control and it set off the stabilitrac everytime as well. I was able to cycle and clear the code simply with a switch off, key off, open door, waited a few seconds started back up and it was off. It never became an issue because of this, by the time i left the track it would be off from natural key cycles.

I fuse pull now and i do not have a line lock on QUIC, I would if I was running Hoosiers though.

Hope you can get it sorted out.

[hammdo]

FYI (sorry for the late reply, didn’t catch the Eaton question) I don’t drag anymore but, the Eaton can do both drag and road course.

Looking good!

-Don