Remove Engine Advise Out the Top - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

4WDlifeform · 04-22-2024, 05:08 PM

I spun a bearing, and need to get the motor out to take it to the shop. I do not have a lift.. I know the preference with our motor is to take it out the bottom, but it is not an option for me. Looking for advice/tips/tricks for picking out the top.

Can it be done without breaking the seal on the AC system? Hope to move the components out of the way and not evacuate the refrigerant. Just a hope.

Getting started on this tonight. I'll start with removing the easy things, and drain the oil today. Not looking forward to this, but I don't want to go a summer without my car, so, diving in.

FWIW: 2014 SS LS3, cammed/tunned + bolt ons. 486whp. 68,000 miles. about 40,000 of those miles with the cam and tune.

ariZona28 · 04-23-2024, 01:08 AM

Per the Chilton manual it can be done. I've never done it myself (hope I never need to). Hopefully some of the more experienced folks will chime in with some tips, tricks or other additional advice.

CamaroCracka · 04-23-2024, 06:54 AM

I've done it multiple times. Get some fender covers so you can lay the condenser on the passenger side without fear of scratching the paint. You can even leave the trans hooked up but you will need to man handle it a bit to get it in and out. I did all R&Rs by myself without even looking at a manual, so not that complicated.

While you have it out be sure to add a remote clutch bleeder and upgrade the clutch if you haven't already done so. Billet support for the slave cylinder is a good idea too.

When my vert spun a bearing it ate an eighth of an inch into the crank, which made it perfect candidate for a stroker kit. Something to consider. Car is a whole different animal now vs the stock LS3. Of course, there have been plenty of other mods since then too.

morepowerjoe · 04-23-2024, 07:21 AM

Yeah I just got done with mine. The hardest part is getting the starter disconnected, the transmission bell housing bolts, the torque converter bolts, and the hot wire that runs underneath the front of the engine in my opinion. I did take off my intake and heads off prior, other than that it's cake.

11REDSS · 04-23-2024, 07:29 AM

I found it easier to remove the hood as well.
Drill 2 alignment holes in the hinges to get everything lined back up easier and you are good.

morepowerjoe · 04-23-2024, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 11REDSS

I found it easier to remove the hood as well.
Drill 2 alignment holes in the hinges to get everything lined back up easier and you are good.

Yeah I forgot to drill the holes. It was a pain lining up the hood again without the holes.

FasNuf · 04-23-2024, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 11REDSS

I found it easier to remove the hood as well.
Drill 2 alignment holes in the hinges to get everything lined back up easier and you are good.

I did this when I was in High School and when I put the hood back on it was perfect. This is great advise for anyone. I drilled a hole the size of the nails that I used to realign. Works like a champ.

trashbasket · 04-29-2024, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4WDlifeform

I spun a bearing, and need to get the motor out to take it to the shop. I do not have a lift.. I know the preference with our motor is to take it out the bottom, but it is not an option for me. Looking for advice/tips/tricks for picking out the top.

Can it be done without breaking the seal on the AC system? Hope to move the components out of the way and not evacuate the refrigerant. Just a hope.

Getting started on this tonight. I'll start with removing the easy things, and drain the oil today. Not looking forward to this, but I don't want to go a summer without my car, so, diving in.

FWIW: 2014 SS LS3, cammed/tunned + bolt ons. 486whp. 68,000 miles. about 40,000 of those miles with the cam and tune.

You could probably not break the A/C open, but its not worth the trouble tbh. Absolutely take the hood off, do not attempt without doing that. Its a pain and you will probably break something.

Others have good advice here so pay attention to what they have to say.
Easier to pull as shortblock if thats an option, bellhousing bolts much easier. Some pics for reference. Let us know if you run into any snags.

morepowerjoe · 04-29-2024, 07:44 AM

When I pulled mine I just unbolted the ac compressor and left it in the engine bay but it's a little bit harder bolting it back in but that's the way I did it.

CamaroCracka · 04-29-2024, 04:43 PM

I must be getting lucky with the hood alignment as this is the first I heard of the hole drilling trick. Never needed more than a couple adjustments. I made my daughter help me on the vert since she was driving it at the time and couldn't wait to have her car back.

The ac compressor is pain, but I've never tried putting the engine back in with it already mounted.

trashbasket · 05-01-2024, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

I must be getting lucky with the hood alignment as this is the first I heard of the hole drilling trick. Never needed more than a couple adjustments. I made my daughter help me on the vert since she was driving it at the time and couldn't wait to have her car back.

The ac compressor is pain, but I've never tried putting the engine back in with it already mounted.

I have always used witness marks from bolt/washer on the hood or grease pen/chalk. I'm not drilling the hood. Curious to see where OP got with it.

CamaroCracka · 05-01-2024, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trashbasket

I have always used witness marks from bolt/washer on the hood or grease pen/chalk. I'm not drilling the hood. Curious to see where OP got with it.

Now that you mention it, I think I used masking tape before I took the hood off.

04-22-2024, 05:08 PM	#1
4WDlifeform Drives: 2014 Camaro 1SS RS Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 75	Remove Engine Advise Out the Top I spun a bearing, and need to get the motor out to take it to the shop. I do not have a lift.. I know the preference with our motor is to take it out the bottom, but it is not an option for me. Looking for advice/tips/tricks for picking out the top. Can it be done without breaking the seal on the AC system? Hope to move the components out of the way and not evacuate the refrigerant. Just a hope. Getting started on this tonight. I'll start with removing the easy things, and drain the oil today. Not looking forward to this, but I don't want to go a summer without my car, so, diving in. FWIW: 2014 SS LS3, cammed/tunned + bolt ons. 486whp. 68,000 miles. about 40,000 of those miles with the cam and tune. __________________ 2014 SS RS Cammed, 4.10s, Tuned, Long Tubes, NPP, CAI

04-23-2024, 01:08 AM	#2
ariZona28 Give speed a chance Drives: 2015 Camaro 2LS, 2015 Camaro Z/28 Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Mesa, Az Posts: 2,241	Per the Chilton manual it can be done. I've never done it myself (hope I never need to). Hopefully some of the more experienced folks will chime in with some tips, tricks or other additional advice. Attached Images __________________ 2LS: a TREMENDOUS machine. Z/28: it's a BIT MORE POWERFUL, of course.

04-23-2024, 06:54 AM	#3
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 2,741	I've done it multiple times. Get some fender covers so you can lay the condenser on the passenger side without fear of scratching the paint. You can even leave the trans hooked up but you will need to man handle it a bit to get it in and out. I did all R&Rs by myself without even looking at a manual, so not that complicated. While you have it out be sure to add a remote clutch bleeder and upgrade the clutch if you haven't already done so. Billet support for the slave cylinder is a good idea too. When my vert spun a bearing it ate an eighth of an inch into the crank, which made it perfect candidate for a stroker kit. Something to consider. Car is a whole different animal now vs the stock LS3. Of course, there have been plenty of other mods since then too. __________________ 2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. Last edited by CamaroCracka; 04-23-2024 at 07:05 AM.

04-23-2024, 07:21 AM	#4
morepowerjoe Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 2,114	Yeah I just got done with mine. The hardest part is getting the starter disconnected, the transmission bell housing bolts, the torque converter bolts, and the hot wire that runs underneath the front of the engine in my opinion. I did take off my intake and heads off prior, other than that it's cake. __________________ DSS FX Forged Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Forged Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC 260 CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Performance Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions , Molly Pushrods, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes with 3" TSP Exhaust, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Fluid Dynamics Balancer Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817

04-23-2024, 07:29 AM	#5
11REDSS Drives: 2011 Camaro ss Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Michigan Posts: 40	I found it easier to remove the hood as well. Drill 2 alignment holes in the hinges to get everything lined back up easier and you are good. __________________ 2011 Camaro 2SS Victory Red Rotofab CAI, 160 Thermostat, Stainless Works Headers, Livernois Motorsports Thunderstorm Exhaust, GPI SS1, rodmod intake, ported tb by GPI, Remote Tune by GPI, Elite Engineering Catch Can, Rotofab washer relocation, JRE scoop, JRE Trans dipstick, BMR Toe Rods, BMR Trailing Arms, BMR subframe connectors, Polyurethane diff bushing and rear cradle mount's, RSM front crash bar

04-29-2024, 07:44 AM	#9
morepowerjoe Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 2,114	When I pulled mine I just unbolted the ac compressor and left it in the engine bay but it's a little bit harder bolting it back in but that's the way I did it. __________________ DSS FX Forged Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Forged Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC 260 CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Performance Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions , Molly Pushrods, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes with 3" TSP Exhaust, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Fluid Dynamics Balancer Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817

04-29-2024, 04:43 PM	#10
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 2,741	I must be getting lucky with the hood alignment as this is the first I heard of the hole drilling trick. Never needed more than a couple adjustments. I made my daughter help me on the vert since she was driving it at the time and couldn't wait to have her car back. The ac compressor is pain, but I've never tried putting the engine back in with it already mounted. __________________ 2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes.