Xpel Costs and Coating Complications

[GreatGiza]

Was wondering what the cost of getting an entire 2015 Camaro ZL1 Coupe (Sunroof)(White) coated in Xpel Ultimate protection would cost? Also having all the windows tinted with Prime XR. Just trying to get a rough idea.

Also would it be correct to assume that you would want to have any exterior mods (IE: aftermarket spoiler, front splitter, custom side marker lights, custom mirrors, modified headlights) installed before you got the car coated?

[gringo]

$6-7K. I think these clear bra installers are making a killing with these products. I priced just the forward facing areas on my car and I was quoted $1.8K-$2K.

Makes me want to try installing it myself.

[Windycity]

Originally Posted by gringo

$6-7K. I think these clear bra installers are making a killing with these products. I priced just the forward facing areas on my car and I was quoted $1.8K-$2K.



Makes me want to try installing it myself.

I would save the 6k and just repaint the whole car if it gets damaged


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[GreatGiza]

I see the coating as being someone who doesn't have any plans on selling or trading off the car anytime soon, while the repaint option would be for someone who is more concerned with the overall resale value.

But for me it also has to do with where I live. About 1 mile from any black top roads (I live in the country on gravel). So dealing with rock chips drives me insane (both from what gets kicked up by my own wheels, and from what those lovely "I have no intentions of moving over or slowing down" drivers you pass on the road.

If I planned to get ghosted oracle side marks, a custom (stock style) wing, front splitter, and some Halo-Iron Man-Demon Eye headlights. Would it make sense to get these put on first so that they can be coated as well? Or would I just get those areas redone later?

[My 5th]

Headlights are normally included in most clear bra jobs, but the side markers are not. At least my installer didn't do the side markers. I have the Oracle ghosted tinted markers. I had the complete front end including hood, fenders done, plus gills and behind rear wheels. Wish I'd had the doors done too, as I have a couple of chips on the lower part.

[XPEL]

Originally Posted by GreatGiza

Was wondering what the cost of getting an entire 2015 Camaro ZL1 Coupe (Sunroof)(White) coated in Xpel Ultimate protection would cost? Also having all the windows tinted with Prime XR. Just trying to get a rough idea.

Also would it be correct to assume that you would want to have any exterior mods (IE: aftermarket spoiler, front splitter, custom side marker lights, custom mirrors, modified headlights) installed before you got the car coated?

Great Giza,

You are getting great pricing feedback here on the forum. Getting a full car protected will usually range between $5,000 and $9,000 depending on where you live and what installer you take it to. Considering the road that you live on, this would be a great investment to protect your paint for the many years ahead. If you do not want to spend the money on a full car, getting only the high impact areas protected is fine as well. These areas include the front bumper, full hood, full fender, mirrors, headlights, rocker panels and behind the rear quarter panels. A package like this will range between $2,500 and $2,800. Either way getting paint protection film installed will give you the peace of mind that your ZL1 is protected from rocks.

To answer your second question, we suggest having the parts installed on the car before you have film put on. It makes installing the film easier as the parts can be more rigid and allow the film to be stretch if needed. Most installers will prefer it this way, however you can check with you local installer to see what they would prefer.

If you have any more questions feel free to reach out and let us know.

[gofast908z]

Originally Posted by Windycity

I would save the 6k and just repaint the whole car if it gets damaged


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For 6k, you'd end up with a paint job that is significantly lower in quality and finish than OEM. With the stuff they have to use now, and not to mention the prep work with the old paint, you're looking at 10-14k for a OEM quality full respray job these days.

[gofast908z]

Originally Posted by XPEL

Great Giza,

You are getting great pricing feedback here on the forum. Getting a full car protected will usually range between $5,000 and $9,000 depending on where you live and what installer you take it to. Considering the road that you live on, this would be a great investment to protect your paint for the many years ahead. If you do not want to spend the money on a full car, getting only the high impact areas protected is fine as well. These areas include the front bumper, full hood, full fender, mirrors, headlights, rocker panels and behind the rear quarter panels. A package like this will range between $2,500 and $2,800. Either way getting paint protection film installed will give you the peace of mind that your ZL1 is protected from rocks.

To answer your second question, we suggest having the parts installed on the car before you have film put on. It makes installing the film easier as the parts can be more rigid and allow the film to be stretch if needed. Most installers will prefer it this way, however you can check with you local installer to see what they would prefer.

If you have any more questions feel free to reach out and let us know.

Well said.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by gofast908z

For 6k, you'd end up with a paint job that is significantly lower in quality and finish than OEM. With the stuff they have to use now, and not to mention the prep work with the old paint, you're looking at 10-14k for a OEM quality full respray job these days.

Have to disagree here.

I've seen 5-6K paint jobs that have hardly any orange peel with 5 coats of clear around 250 microns, that look fantastic after compounding and polishing.

I've also seen 10k jobs where a nib was missed, also lots of orange peel, with only 3 coats of clear (150 microns).

[gofast908z]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Have to disagree here.

I've seen 5-6K paint jobs that have hardly any orange peel with 5 coats of clear around 250 microns, that look fantastic after compounding and polishing.

I've also seen 10k jobs where a nib was missed, also lots of orange peel, with only 3 coats of clear (150 microns).

I'm sure you have, but most 5-6k paint jobs aren't going to have as much prep and certainly not as much clear as that. Region plays a big factor too. But on average, to duplicate OEM quality and durability, you are closer to 5 digits than 4.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by gofast908z

I'm sure you have, but most 5-6k paint jobs aren't going to have as much prep and certainly not as much clear as that. Region plays a big factor too. But on average, to duplicate OEM quality and durability, you are closer to 5 digits than 4.

Every Gen 5 Camaro I've measured has around 185-225 total microns of OEM paint (primer/base/clear). OEM paint varies a little in hardness, but most are medium.

You're not going to get a re-paint that has paint as hard as OEM because it's dried with a heat gun instead of run through an oven like OEM is.

Unless you remove the panels and use an oven, your going to have softer paint.

OEM paint is not sanded to remove orange peel either, it's too thin. The quality of the appearance has to do with sanding/compounding/finishing. A properly done job will look much better than OEM.

Some people charge ridiculous amounts of money to do this, some don't.

[gofast908z]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Every Gen 5 Camaro I've measured has around 185-225 total microns of OEM paint (primer/base/clear). OEM paint varies a little in hardness, but most are medium.

You're not going to get a re-paint that has paint as hard as OEM because it's dried with a heat gun instead of run through an oven like OEM is.

Unless you remove the panels and use an oven, your going to have softer paint.

OEM paint is not sanded to remove orange peel either, it's too thin. The quality of the appearance has to do with sanding/compounding/finishing. A properly done job will look much better than OEM.

Some people charge ridiculous amounts of money to do this, some don't.

My comment wasn't in regard to hardness of the clear, nor the thickness. More to the intensive labor to redo an existing paint job, and done to a quality where there are not telltale signs the car has been resprayed, jambs, underbody, engine bay, disassembly, etc.

Having taken 2-4k paint jobs and correcting/leveling the crap out of them, yes you can make it look amazing. Depends on how good or bad the painter is. Where do you want to spend the money, on the front end (paint) or back end (correction work)...either way you gotta pay to have it really look good.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by gofast908z

My comment wasn't in regard to hardness of the clear, nor the thickness. More to the intensive labor to redo an existing paint job, and done to a quality where there are not telltale signs the car has been resprayed, jambs, underbody, engine bay, disassembly, etc.

Having taken 2-4k paint jobs and correcting/leveling the crap out of them, yes you can make it look amazing. Depends on how good or bad the painter is. Where do you want to spend the money, on the front end (paint) or back end (correction work)...either way you gotta pay to have it really look good.

Yes my comment was that a re-paint will be thicker and softer. This was in reply to your comment that to get OEM quality, you have to spend 10-12k. But your not going to have paint as hard as OEM unless the panels are removed and the paint is baked on.

OEM paint is going to be thinner, and harder. So unless your planning to disassemble the car, which 99.999% of people aren't going to do, your going to have softer paint than OEM regardless of how much you paid.

Front end or back end? No one can spray a car and make the clear perfectly level. Doesn't matter who the painter is. Some do better than others.

There is no either way, you have to finish it down for the best possible results, regardless of who paints it or how much they charge.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by GreatGiza

I see the coating as being someone who doesn't have any plans on selling or trading off the car anytime soon, while the repaint option would be for someone who is more concerned with the overall resale value.

But for me it also has to do with where I live. About 1 mile from any black top roads (I live in the country on gravel). So dealing with rock chips drives me insane (both from what gets kicked up by my own wheels, and from what those lovely "I have no intentions of moving over or slowing down" drivers you pass on the road.

If I planned to get ghosted oracle side marks, a custom (stock style) wing, front splitter, and some Halo-Iron Man-Demon Eye headlights. Would it make sense to get these put on first so that they can be coated as well? Or would I just get those areas redone later?

Get some ZL1 rock guards, this will minimize rock chips from your wheels. Stay 4-5 car lengths behind cars in front of you whenever possible, this will minimize chipping from them.