11-30-2017, 04:29 PM | #43 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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11-30-2017, 04:49 PM | #44 | |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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oh for cryin out loud! this crap AGAIN! your thread is from 2009!!!!! I guess I will have to tell my soon to be 117k clutch to go f itself since I have had the spring off practically the DAY I bought the car(27k ago, no idea of previous use but it did have a 2014 motor put in it!)...and I don't baby the SOB one bit...BUT I DO USE THE RANGER METHOD!...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html... I wish peeps would do a bit more research than just regurgitating crap...it gets old and we folk who know better via direct exp. find it tiring... if you pedal is not coming back to the top ON IT'S OWN without the spring your clutch hydraulic system is f'd...only time my STOCK clutch ever acted up was not lettin it cool better runs...did approx. 50 1/4 this year...and I DD unless rain or snow...peace out!
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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11-30-2017, 04:55 PM | #45 | |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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screw it...you want proof? 5k launch, 7k shift, no weight reduction...next year I will run 11's once I get my dig sorted..
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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11-30-2017, 07:22 PM | #46 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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My lingenfelter return spring ensures the pedal gets to the top of the travel. If someone needs help holding the clutch pedal down maybe they should've gone for an automatic.
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
12-06-2017, 03:46 PM | #47 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS 6-Speed Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Lansdale,PA
Posts: 406
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^What he said lol I took my spring out because I didn't like the kick back from the pedal, pretty hard to get used to. I like it without the spring 1000x better but now this compensation port non-sense has me thinking about putting the bastard back in...
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2013 Camaro 1SS 6-Speed LS3 All stock.. For now... |
12-06-2017, 04:02 PM | #48 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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Get the lingenfelter spring instead. There is some effort added, but it is not much. This probably has more to do with the OEM spring removal, but I can tell the clutch does feel better, I can hear it engage/disengage with the pedal travel.
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
12-07-2017, 08:32 AM | #49 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS 6-Speed Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Lansdale,PA
Posts: 406
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So does anyone know if this compensation port thing is true?
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2013 Camaro 1SS 6-Speed LS3 All stock.. For now... |
12-07-2017, 09:34 AM | #50 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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I have NEVER read nor heard of the master cylinder failing...not a single one...now if some has please provide where it came from...tks..
what does fail is the slave...why? if you went the the ranger method link and read it top to bottom you will see where due to the seal design clutch dust can migrate into the slave..bad because it's abrasive! Now the monster billet support helps with after market clutches that have higher clamping and the stock slave support will fail over time...but the seals are the same so the same prob exists.. only true solution is an after market slave unit that addresses this specific issue. until then the frequent brake/clutch fluid exchanges work for me. good luck!
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
Last edited by frankwjr; 12-07-2017 at 11:39 AM. |
12-07-2017, 10:08 AM | #51 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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12-07-2017, 12:26 PM | #52 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS 6-Speed Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Lansdale,PA
Posts: 406
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Yes I know the ranger method very well, I used to do it to my GTO all the time to keep the fluid and reservoir clean.
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2013 Camaro 1SS 6-Speed LS3 All stock.. For now... |
06-08-2018, 07:25 PM | #53 |
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Dallas
Posts: 482
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Old thread but wanted to chime in. My care has 28k miles on it and about 4 months of high horsepower. After a few very spirited runs my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I considered getting a spring and ran across this thread.
I read the post by frankw regarding the ranger method and decidied to go that route first. The results, OMG, I got my clutch back. Totally different car that now jams smoothly into all gears. Well, 1-2 is still a POS, but dang it digs!! Thanks for sharing tribal knowledge. It worked for me! peace.
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06-09-2018, 10:01 AM | #54 | |
Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,741
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You know, the "compensation port" post actually explicitly states the CSC (clutch slave cylinder) will fail. The port itself is simply a feature of the master cylinder. So you told someone they were wrong, and then stated exactly what they stated. Anyway. If anyone with a V6 comes across this, I recommend against trying it. Even though the hydraulic system should be nearly identical (I also have an Ideal Garage SS master cylinder and a Monster twin disc + slave now), I tried removing the clutch assist spring with the stock clutch and with my twin disc and both times the clutch pedal consistency was gone and it never shifted quite right. My friend with a 15 GT gave me the ideal originally for the same reason the SS guys have stated, and his car with vs without the spring was an obvious improvement, which is why I tried it. Funny, I've been doing the ranger method since I got the car though. The transmission gets so hot driving normally on the highway it seems like it just cooks the clutch fluid, but fresh fluid makes it drive perfectly again.
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K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler
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10-17-2018, 09:30 PM | #55 |
Drives: 2015 1LE Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 1,485
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I just removed the spring and its much easier to drive the car smoothly. Dont know if it will hurt anything.
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10-17-2018, 10:18 PM | #56 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS/RS 2SS Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: here
Posts: 591
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Ranger method article. Talk about a long winded article to say just change your fluid. Was there a word min for it? Lol
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-2011 Camaro LS3 6m
-Stock Bottom -Stock Cam -TSP 1 7/8" headers with full 3" to tips No Cats -Livernois Twin Pump -ID 1050x's -Procharger D1x at 10 psi w/ 12 rib and Big Red -Procharger 1300hp IC -Built by ME! -Tuned by Brian Turner of Dyno Tune Motorsports, Columbus Ohio -Full SD tune, no MAF installed, used a different GM IAT -610rwhp / 542rwtq |
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