04-06-2010, 12:27 PM | #15 |
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Without a bunch of adjustments pre or post, as a general rule, on a cloudless day avoid shooting between 10am-3pm. The lighting is just to harsh.
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04-06-2010, 01:05 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro CGM 2SS/RS Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: US
Posts: 136
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Using the "auto" settings on your camera is a big no-no. Chances are, the camera is using too high of an ISO setting which is causing your fuzzies.
-Try to take your pictures during sunrise or sunset. You want your lightsource at a horitontal (not vertical) angle to the car. -Forcing your camera to use the flash can have good results, even in daylight. -Get a tripod to eliminate any motion, and get your manual settings dialed in. Try these and I bet you will see improvement in your camera's output quality.
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Kenne Bell 2.8 Polished & Black - Coolingmist Methanol Injection Stillen Front Splitter - Havoc Side Skirts & Rear Diffuser ICONZ Wheels & Nitto NT-05's - PFADT Springs |
04-06-2010, 05:43 PM | #17 | |
Drives: NSMNJW=2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Exshaw Alberta Canada
Posts: 1,214
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Quote:
Its pavement underneath lol and very very slowly TY all and I will keep playing with camera and driving
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04-06-2010, 06:45 PM | #18 |
Get a Nikon or Canon DSLR if you can come to afford one. Pick one up used, or if you want new, the Nikon D3000 would be very suitable with it's ISO range, aperture, and shutter speeds for the money. That's what I plan to start with, and I have seen great pictures with the camera. And mega pix aren't everything, 12 is really the most that I would ever go with, because mega pix can make it get that "grainy" look and looks more saturated in low light. And don't waste your money on a professional photographer. You can find all the skills you need here (other than having a good eye) http://www.carphototutorials.com/
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04-06-2010, 07:29 PM | #19 |
Mark it ZERO!
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Here's a pic at sunset with a canon rebel t1i, and no post processing.
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04-06-2010, 08:49 PM | #20 |
Drives: NSMNJW=2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Exshaw Alberta Canada
Posts: 1,214
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Tx I'll give it a try earlier or later in the day. those pics were at jus before noon.
Thank you all for the good info
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DYI Oil Catch Can, DYI dash ABL, DyI fender "V"emblems, ACC Plasma DRL, DYI Painted red SS on steering wheel, DYI CGM painted bowties on wheels, DYI Clearcoated Brake Calipers, Eibach pro 1" lowering springs, GM Heratige grill, GM skipshift eliminator, GMPP 92206992 Exhaust, 2-10" Kenwood subs w/350watt pioneer amp, RiderGraphics hood spears/gill outlines, 9x20 wheels-custom silver,weather tech mats, ARH 17/8 headers and cats. Tuned by Davenport Motorsports.
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04-06-2010, 09:38 PM | #21 |
Mark it ZERO!
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Be sure to post the results!
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04-06-2010, 10:41 PM | #22 | |
I am Iron Man
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Quote:
Regarding megapixels, dont take too much in to the hype, at the current common span of MP's, manufacturers basically use this as a selling point. Once you get around 8 and up its all about sensor size and quality, not just how many mega pixels a camera has. (unless you are going to be printing very very large prints...) With that being said, your camera's mega pixels are a limiting factor based on todays current technology, considering most common cell phones now take higher res than your current point and shoot. If you are not in to camera's a lot, dont let someone fool you in to thinking you need to break the bank to get a camera that takes nice pics. Just some new technology will go a long way. I would look for a camera around the 8MP range and you will be taking great pics in no time. Here is one I took of my fiancé last weekend driving my car, hand held, fairly harsh light, no tripod. Moderate post processing. |
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04-06-2010, 10:47 PM | #23 |
I am Iron Man
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EDIT: Sorry, I over looked that you did pick up a new camera. My tips would now be to focus on steady shots, hold the camera steady as best as possible, try using the viewfinder if it has one instead of holding the camera out and looking at the screen. Keep your arms close to your body to minimize shake. Use correct ISO settings to achieve faster shutter speeds in lower light. Just be careful setting your ISO to high, or noise will become prevalent. Even point and shoots today are very powerful tools with most offering lots of options. Learn to shy away from auto settings and opt for the aperture priority or shutter priority instead.
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04-06-2010, 11:02 PM | #24 |
Drives: NSMNJW=2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Exshaw Alberta Canada
Posts: 1,214
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Very good info as I had it on Auto every thing hmmm
Photo results will be a ongoing driving thing lol
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04-07-2010, 12:12 AM | #25 |
Drives: 2010 Rally Yellow Camaro Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ga
Posts: 73
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Remember the Golden hours sunrise and sunset...
Harsh light appears after 9am...after 9 you need a shade. a monopod is good for stabilization also and a lot of pro's use them instead of tripods.
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04-07-2010, 07:41 AM | #26 |
I am Iron Man
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Monopods are really cool. Best application is for sports and "action" shots. Great to get that panning effect with cars or atheletes passing by.
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04-07-2010, 07:43 AM | #27 |
I am Iron Man
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04-07-2010, 01:06 PM | #28 |
Drives: NSMNJW=2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Exshaw Alberta Canada
Posts: 1,214
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Thx I keep forgetting that not evryone gets this everyday. We live in the eastern side of the Rockies, 20 minutes from Banff National Park
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DYI Oil Catch Can, DYI dash ABL, DyI fender "V"emblems, ACC Plasma DRL, DYI Painted red SS on steering wheel, DYI CGM painted bowties on wheels, DYI Clearcoated Brake Calipers, Eibach pro 1" lowering springs, GM Heratige grill, GM skipshift eliminator, GMPP 92206992 Exhaust, 2-10" Kenwood subs w/350watt pioneer amp, RiderGraphics hood spears/gill outlines, 9x20 wheels-custom silver,weather tech mats, ARH 17/8 headers and cats. Tuned by Davenport Motorsports.
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