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Old 03-30-2016, 01:28 PM   #1
fldrummer
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DSS Axles = defective axle bolts!?

So I'm in an empty parking lot this weekend and, now that I finally have some sticky tires and [supposedly] bullet-proof drivetrain, I try to start testing the newfound traction. Rather than jumping straight to attempting a dead-hook from a stop, I decided to try a rolling (5-mph) start. I get moving and floor it. Instantly, I hear a loud "POP" and the car goes nowhere. I'm thinking "great, I just blew up my transmission."

I have it towed back to my shop and they discover that (fortunately), my transmission is fine. It's some of the driver-side axle bolts that broke. Seriously? This is something I'd expect to happen with stock axles, not my new 1000-hp axles from Driveshaft Shop! Has anyone else experienced this with their DSS or other aftermarket axles? What's going to happen if I try to do a dead-hook at the track? This is just unbelievable and unacceptable.
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Old 03-30-2016, 03:45 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fldrummer View Post
So I'm in an empty parking lot this weekend and, now that I finally have some sticky tires and [supposedly] bullet-proof drivetrain, I try to start testing the newfound traction. Rather than jumping straight to attempting a dead-hook from a stop, I decided to try a rolling (5-mph) start. I get moving and floor it. Instantly, I hear a loud "POP" and the car goes nowhere. I'm thinking "great, I just blew up my transmission."

I have it towed back to my shop and they discover that (fortunately), my transmission is fine. It's some of the driver-side axle bolts that broke. Seriously? This is something I'd expect to happen with stock axles, not my new 1000-hp axles from Driveshaft Shop! Has anyone else experienced this with their DSS or other aftermarket axles? What's going to happen if I try to do a dead-hook at the track? This is just unbelievable and unacceptable.

I see the bolts are still there, did they just come loose ?
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:52 PM   #3
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High performance parts DO require more maintenance, sometimes a bit higher torque when wrenching, but do required checking more often than OEM stuff to ensure bolts are tight and ready to go. Doesn't look like bolts are sheared, more like they were loose. But you should have been able to feel that driving around???
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:21 PM   #4
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Were these new or used? How long were they on the car before you attempted this?

Sure looks like they came loose.

DSS: what are the torque specs for those bolts? I would like to check my new ones after I get them on the car, just to be sure...

Thanks!

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Old 03-30-2016, 06:02 PM   #5
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Were these new or used? How long were they on the car before you attempted this?

Sure looks like they came loose.

DSS: what are the torque specs for those bolts? I would like to check my new ones after I get them on the car, just to be sure...

Thanks!

-Don

57-60lbs, a little Blue Loctite goes a long way also.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:08 PM   #6
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Awesome. So should I go ahead and do that after I install the axles, just to be safe?

-Don
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:23 PM   #7
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They come pre-torqued with the loctite so you should be fine.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:26 PM   #8
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It almost looks like the bolts broke - what grade bolts are used in these axles?
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:56 PM   #9
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They come pre-torqued with the loctite so you should be fine.
Perfect!

Thanks...

-Don
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:02 PM   #10
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These were brand new axles installed about 6 months ago. I've only put about 1000 miles on them and it hasn't been tracked. Several bolts broke; one broke off in the hub of the diff.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreksnot View Post
High performance parts DO require more maintenance, sometimes a bit higher torque when wrenching, but do required checking more often than OEM stuff to ensure bolts are tight and ready to go. Doesn't look like bolts are sheared, more like they were loose. But you should have been able to feel that driving around???
Everything felt normal before this incident. Nothing felt loose. No funny noises either.
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Mods: Forged 416 LS3, Maggie TVS 2300 SC (~11 psi), custom cam (232/247, .630/.630, 118 LSA), 90-lb. injectors, ZL1 fuel pump & ADM controller, Alky Control meth kit, Monster LT1-SC twin-disk clutch, ZL1 drivetrain conversion w/ DSS 1000-HP axles & 1-pc. driveshaft, CAI Inc. intake w/ ADM scoop, XS Power full exhaust (1 7/8" LT headers with 3" off-road pipes), VMAX CNC-ported TB, LSR adjustable sway bars, LPE rear end-links, BMR 1" drop, BMR polyurethane bushings; UMI trailing arms & toe rods. Built & tuned by Kraftworks. 755 rwhp/708 rwtq
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:06 PM   #12
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They look backed out to me. If they snapped most or all would be flush with the mounting surface. I use nord-lock washers and blue loctite. Once torqued I use a marking pen to make a reference point on the bolt and the flange so I can see if they are backing out when I frequently inspect my drivetrain (part of mods and owning a performance car).

On DSS, I've been running my axles for several years of strip abuse and road course duty. I've had one issue (from running a lowered car on the road track). Frank repaired and upgraded at no cost. I would not shop anywhere else for axles and drivelines PERIOD. If you've got a problem, talk to them and they will get it squared away.


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Old 03-30-2016, 07:13 PM   #13
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Better yet invest in a pair of safety wire pliers, wire, drill and 1/16 drill bit. Won't back out again!
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:35 PM   #14
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That'll do it!


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