12-03-2018, 08:15 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2014 2LT Camaro RS Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Uvalde
Posts: 69
|
Bad clutch
So I have 70,000 miles on my car and my clutch is going out or at least I think so. So looking for clutch kits. What’s the best one
|
12-03-2018, 08:34 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 camaro ss Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: new york
Posts: 156
|
look into Exedy
__________________
2010 Cyber Gray Metallic 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI | Stainless Works Longtubes w/ high flow cats | Muffler Delete | TSP 229/244 stage 2 cam| TSP .660" Spring Kit | TSP CNC Ported Heads | Mulling high volume oil pump | PTB | Trunnion upgrade | Hurst short throw shifter | Elite Engineering Catch Can | Exedy stage 1 clutch |
|
12-03-2018, 10:26 AM | #3 |
OEM? Whats that?
Drives: 2014 Camaro SS Black Widow Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 83
|
Mcleod twin disk
__________________
2014 Southern Comfort Black Widow SS LS3
Magnuson Supercharger, ceramic coated ARH headers w/cat deletes, BTR blower cam, Mahle forged pistons, AEM Methanol injection, JRE 8 rib Super tensioner, Innovators West 8 rib serpentine pulley system, Melling high flow oil pump, Lingenfelter high flow fuel pump, McCleod RXT ceramic coated Twin disk clutch, Hooker BlackHeart exhaust. Escort 360 radar detector & dashcam. Rockford Fosgate 1000w prime amp, 2X12” Rockford P3D2’s Build and mods done by R&D Motorsports in Baton Rouge Tune/Dyno done by ,,Engine Power Systems in Baton Rouge |
12-03-2018, 11:20 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 726
|
The "best" clutch and the most practical clutch for your application are probably 2 different things. No mods listed, so assuming there are none. A stock replacement will probably work fine and you can save some money.
__________________
GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband
Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA |
12-03-2018, 01:21 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS 2LT 6spd man Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Dickinson, Texas
Posts: 535
|
Is it slipping or slow to react to the pedal? Mine does that. but it drives fine the rest of the time, I just think the slave my need bleeding.
__________________
|
12-03-2018, 04:43 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2014 2LT Camaro RS Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Uvalde
Posts: 69
|
Full bolt on. E-85 kit, intake manifold, ARH catless down pipes, overkill tune, CAI cold air intake.
|
12-03-2018, 10:46 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,741
|
Monster twin disc. Upgrade the master cylinder with an Ideal Garage unit and get the Monster billet slave piece also.
__________________
K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler
|
12-04-2018, 08:02 AM | #8 |
GPI Sales Consultant
|
Still need to know more about the car. Do you race the car at all? If so are you launching on a street tire or something stickier? Stock replacement is fine for a full bolt on car that doesn't get raced. If you're a regular at the drag strip you might as well spend the money and get something that will hold up better. These guys are 100% right, if the trans is coming out, make sure it goes back in with a billet throw out bearing support and a speed bleeder. The bearing support is a very common failure point, and the speed bleeder will make your clutch hydraulic system maintenance much easier. A remote reservoir is also a worthwhile investment for cars that see any sort of aggressive use.
From my research, if I was going to put a clutch in, it would be a Mcleod RXT. Has a great reputation for both driving nicely and taking all the abuse you can throw at it.
__________________
GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
12-04-2018, 05:55 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,741
|
(This is on a V6 just so we're clear) I'm pretty confident there isn't a McLeod option for the V6. Also why I recommend the Monster twin disc unit. Holds power much better but drives like stock. A friend of mine has gone through a Spec clutch and some other brand, single disc units, and his car felt, I dunno, squishy to drive compared to mine, grabbed much slower. I am a believer in the twin discs.
__________________
K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler
|
12-04-2018, 11:17 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2014 2LT Camaro RS Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Uvalde
Posts: 69
|
Monster is what I’m looking at but why should I get the master cylinder and slave cylinder?
|
12-05-2018, 08:54 AM | #11 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 726
|
Quote:
The master cylinder is easier to replace, so I didn't worry about it when I had mine apart. Opinions differ, so keep that in mind when evaluating what everyone is telling you.
__________________
GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband
Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA |
|
12-05-2018, 11:35 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,741
|
I swapped my master cylinder to the Ideal Garage unit like I said when I did everything. It's easy and relatively cheap and the pedal feels much better. But feeling is an opinion. Do you need it, probably not.
Slave should be replaced every time you replace the clutch. If you go Monster, just get the slave from them with the billet support. You'll pay for one regardless.
__________________
K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler
|
|
|
Thread Tools | |
|
|