McLeod RXT 1200 HD

[eLeSthree]

Ive done clutch swaps on fox bodys before. In the driveway, on gravel, with a shitty jack, in mid FL summer. I swore Id never do it again, but the only shop I trusts wants $1000 for labor.

Besides the obvious stuff, exhaust, driveshaft, pulling trans, what else should I know? How do i bleed the new slave? Its operated off brake fluid??

[frankwjr]

extra tall jack stands or blocks under regular ones...get it up as high as possible...gonna need LONG socket wrench ext esp for the last top bolt...


the trans sometimes needs to be slightly rotated when being lowered to clear exhaust...



just take out the 3 bolts on ea end of the dr...do not take the quibo bolts/nuts off! not req! wrap plastic baggies around the ends of the trans cooler lines..


do this before http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html this way you will be starting with clean fluid! sum peeps bleed straight from the slave others get remote bleeders.....


last take your time and make sure to measure the clearances before putting the trans back in....not sure if your gonna need any shims and have read way to may stories lately from other C5 peeps doing clutches and not having proper engagement after it's all put back together...I HATE havin to redo sh!t...


good luck!...peace


btw - and have a helper!

[GMteSSted]

A MUST: lower the rear of the engine cradle about 3 inches. The 2 cradle bolts closet to the front need to be backed out about half way. The middle bolts remove. The bolts at the rear of the cradle back out until the cradle drops 3 inches. Use a jack to support the cradle the entire time.

When you do this you can see and get to all of the trans bolts. Also no rotating and twisting of the trans. will be needed.

I just finished up changing the clutch and lowering the cradle is the only way to do it without a whole lot of hassle.

Install a remote slave bleeder while you are at it, makes bleeding the slave a breeze.

[eLeSthree]

Good tips fellas. Much appreciated.

About the lowering the cradle, I assume this means all the hoses and wiring harness needs to have a few inches of slack in it, since the entire engine is going to be dropped down some.

I'm not too crazy about that. Especially how tight it is with the Supercharger piping and all....

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

extra tall jack stands or blocks under regular ones...get it up as high as possible...gonna need LONG socket wrench ext esp for the last top bolt...


the trans sometimes needs to be slightly rotated when being lowered to clear exhaust...



just take out the 3 bolts on ea end of the dr...do not take the quibo bolts/nuts off! not req! wrap plastic baggies around the ends of the trans cooler lines..


do this before http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html this way you will be starting with clean fluid! sum peeps bleed straight from the slave others get remote bleeders.....


last take your time and make sure to measure the clearances before putting the trans back in....not sure if your gonna need any shims and have read way to may stories lately from other C5 peeps doing clutches and not having proper engagement after it's all put back together...I HATE havin to redo sh!t...


good luck!...peace


btw - and have a helper!

To find the clearances, should I just use a straightedge and measure the distance from the block to the fingers on the stock clutch, and make sure the new setup is the same?

[Synner]

Absolutely not, follow the numbers and measuring method that come with your new clutch.

[fz4k98]

Please post if you end up with a vibration between 1200 and 1800 rpm when under load.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by Synner

Absolutely not, follow the numbers and measuring method that come with your new clutch.

I found the documentation underneath the clutch, that should help.

Originally Posted by fz4k98

Please post if you end up with a vibration between 1200 and 1800 rpm when under load.

If I do get a vibration, I will be sure to let you know. However, I would blame myself or my installer, before thinking the Mcleod had anything to do with it. Which model Mcleod do you have, and did you use a new flywheel?
Who did the install? Did you make sure to bolt the pressure plate on the right way. There is a video online that says it can go on the incorrect way....
You have to mind the gaps and have them on the right sides.

On the fence right now weather or not to pay Redline-Motorsports to do the install, or do it myself.

[fz4k98]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

I found the documentation underneath the clutch, that should help.



If I do get a vibration, I will be sure to let you know. However, I would blame myself or my installer, before thinking the Mcleod had anything to do with it. Which model Mcleod do you have, and did you use a new flywheel?
Who did the install? Did you make sure to bolt the pressure plate on the right way. There is a video online that says it can go on the incorrect way....
You have to mind the gaps and have them on the right sides.

On the fence right now weather or not to pay Redline-Motorsports to do the install, or do it myself.

Thanks for the feedback. Rxt professionally installed and it vibrates every gear. Remove and reinstall stock clutch and it reduced about 90 percent
Reinstall and it comes back. McLeod says it's in the trans. Gm teched the vibration in trans with stock clutch reinstalled and said it was a good trans with stock clutch.
Over the winter I had trans rebuilt and upgraded by an authorized tremec shop they recommended and it's still the same. Rpm related, not speed. Only when clutch is engaged so not the engine.

I m driving now and staying out of the range but plan on a different clutch eventually.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by GMteSSted

A MUST: lower the rear of the engine cradle about 3 inches. The 2 cradle bolts closet to the front need to be backed out about half way. The middle bolts remove. The bolts at the rear of the cradle back out until the cradle drops 3 inches. Use a jack to support the cradle the entire time.

When you do this you can see and get to all of the trans bolts. Also no rotating and twisting of the trans. will be needed.

I just finished up changing the clutch and lowering the cradle is the only way to do it without a whole lot of hassle.

Install a remote slave bleeder while you are at it, makes bleeding the slave a breeze.

About lowering the cradle...
I can see how there are two bellhousing bolts that some may think sre hard to get to. I however can reach them easily from the top of the engine. Ive already partially loosened the top one, and can see the other one near the drivers side failry well, and think i can access it as well. I already dropped the exhuast, front driveshaft, pulled all the wiring harness and clips. Also remove the trans fluid, since its brand new, and im just wondering about this “twisting” business.

Why would I need to twist the trans? Looks like itll drop straight down.

Ill pick this up tomorrow where i left off.

[eLeSthree]

Made a lot of progress. Even if the tops two bolts are accessible, I can see how dropping the craddle would create the perfect angle for the trans to slide off. It was kind of a bitch to get straight off.

Got it all buttoned up now. Just need to reconnect the hoses and bleed the sucker.

[eLeSthree]

Question. Is it normal upon reinstalling the trans bellhousing to the block, to have to draw it in using the bolts in a star pattern?

We could push the trans onto the alignment dowels, but it just seemed like the pressure plate fingers and slave were fighting us.

[imaSSnake]

Yes, in my experience with a different vehicle

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by imaSSnake

Yes, in my experience with a different vehicle

Thanks, I kinda recall this happening on the mustang a long time ago also.

I think what causes this, is the input shaft is being forced into the new friction disk(s) and they arent perfectly aligned. Even though I used the alignment tool, I found that I could wiggle the alignment tool (and both friction disks) quite a bit before torquing down the pressure plate. Its hard to hold the alignment tool in a perfectly level position (which is even harder on your back) and torque the pressure plate bolts at the same time.

I think it causes a slight offset of positioning. So when the shaft goes in for the first time, its tight, but once you press the clutch in the very first time, the disk(s) loosen and align themselves perfectly, and all is fine.

I remember my Fox body having a cable clutch, and I rigged up a way to leverage the TOB fork to press the pressure plate, and the whole bellhousing popped right into place.


My theory anyway...