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Old 10-05-2015, 02:20 PM   #1
UM4DBRO
 
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FTI Level 3 TH400 swap

I will be beginning to buy parts to do a TH400 swap on my 2014 SS soon and I have a few questions and haven't found too much on the forum to help guide me. I was looking to get the level 3 FTI with the reverse manual valve body http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fti-...AL1xoCPFTw_wcB (shown here). Now I know I will have to get a custom driveshaft made, and I will have to also get a torque converter and the dipstick and indicator but I have heard you can use the manual trans stock crossmember which can be ordered from gm parts? I should specify I am coming from an L99. I know I will need a flex plate as well. What all am I missing that is absolutely necessary to complete the swap from a parts standpoint? Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 10-05-2015, 03:41 PM   #2
LS7 427
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You can use the existing L99 crossmenber with a spacer, you don't have to buy the M6 crossmember. I can post the TCI flexplate part number and Lokar dipstick part number for you when I get home this evening. The only 2 things you haven't mentioned are a shifter and a transmission mount, I can post the part numbers for both of those as well later today.
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:08 PM   #3
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Yeah that would be awesome if you could post the part numbers for the spacer, flexplate, transmission mount and dipstick! shifter i was going to get the quarter stick hurst shifter, is there any kit I need to make that compatible?
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:29 PM   #4
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There are two different TCI flexplates. PTC just made me a custom stall to match mine without a spacer. I just let them know which one I had. I too am going to run a MVB along with a good drum and 34 sprag.
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:51 PM   #5
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My other question was some stall converters said they were not compatible with trans brakes... which ones are?
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:34 PM   #6
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i just did this swap and yank makes there converters so you don't need the flex plate or adapter just bolts up to stock plate, worked perfect in my car
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:09 PM   #7
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i am not sure if your wiring is the same as a 2010. when i did my wiring the only info i could find was to loop pin 10-14 and 11-13 on the round tranny plug but when i did this my car wouldn't start, no starter engagement, so with a lot of research i found you also have to ground pin 2 and 3 and then it started right up.also so you can get your key out you need to connect the purple and white and black wire on your 4 wire shifter plug. not sure if you have found this info or not yet but i know this all worked for me on my 2010.
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:49 PM   #8
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Here's a list of parts, if its not complete let me know and I'll see what else I can dig up. I also have a PTC converter and did not need a spacer.

From Summit:
  • LOK-1211144-36 36" locking dipstick
  • ENS-3-1108G Trans mount GM zinc & BL

From TCI:
  • 399754 SFI Flexplate

From B&M Racing:
  • 80710 Replacement Shift Gate Plate for Pro Stick, 3-Speed Reverse Pattern
  • 80844 Neutral Safety Micro Switch Kit for Pro Stick Shifters
  • 81040 Automatic Shifter, Magnum Grip Pro Stick with Cover
  • 81060 Magnum Grip Side Plate with Momentary Button
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Last edited by LS7 427; 10-05-2015 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010SUMMITSS View Post
i just did this swap and yank makes there converters so you don't need the flex plate or adapter just bolts up to stock plate, worked perfect in my car

The OEM flexplate is not SFI compliant and won't pass NHRA inspection.
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Last edited by LS7 427; 10-06-2015 at 07:59 AM. Reason: corrected an error.
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Old 10-05-2015, 10:09 PM   #10
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Here are my steps for making the car run after the installation of the transmission. In my case we were using an SCT X4 programmer.
  • do a "return to stock" before you pull the 6L80 to copy the stock file back to the ecm & tcm
  • after the th400 is in pin wires 10-14 and 11-13 on the round transmission plug to complete the canbus circuit
  • cut the purple wire at the starter solenoid and run both ends back to the micro switch on the new shifter for neutral safety
  • On the 4 wire plug from the OEM shifter that was removed pin the purple/white and black wires so you can remove the key from the ignition
  • Now do a "upload stock file to your laptop or handheld device. This will upload ecm data but will not have tcm data
  • Copy and paste your tune data into the tables of the uploaded stock file
  • Load the tune file back into the car and your done

You will not have cruise control or back up lights. Can't help you with those. If you find the cure for the back up lights please let the rest of us know.

NOTE: Do not waste your time and try to load an M6 file, it just doesn't work like that. (I've seen that little gem posted a few times)

I had not heard of grounding pin 2 and 3 to get the car to start as 2010SUMMITSS has suggested. This may work but I suspect the car may start in any gear including reverse. In my case I cut the purple wire at the starter and went back to the neutral safety micro switch attached to the new shifter so the car will only start in park or neutral. If the other way works, it may be a better way to go. Perhaps 2010SUMMITSS can confirm.
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Old 10-05-2015, 10:42 PM   #11
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I built a plate and attached it to the bottom of the shifter and then mounted the whole assembly to the tunnel using the existing hole.
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Old 10-05-2015, 10:56 PM   #12
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Lastly, here is the spacer I built so I could use the existing 6L80E transmission cross member. Your spacer thickness will be determined by using an angle finder on the face of the pinion shaft in the differential. Eg; if the pinion shaft has an upward angle of 2 degrees, your plate thickness needs to be such that when bolted up your transmission output shaft has a downward angle of 2 degrees to keep the angles as close to parallel as possible. In my case the spacer is 5/8" thick which produced a downward angle of 3 degrees as the pinion was 3 degrees upward.

Good luck with your project, I hope this info helps you out.
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Old 10-06-2015, 06:37 AM   #13
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I think you meant the flexplate isn't sfi approved. I also used your build as a reference a lot but when I hooked the wires up I had no starter until I grounded the pin 2 and 3 black wires then the starter would work,I also did the neutral safety switch and it wouldn't start until I grounded those wires. just in case he runs into the same problem.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:48 AM   #14
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Thank you so much guys I appreciate it!
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