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Old 03-23-2015, 10:54 AM   #687
JusticePete
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Originally Posted by itsash58 View Post
Im in Oman, Bought an RS in 2012, It lasted about a year and then the popping starting on the passenger side front. The drivers side seems fine. No one here at the service center have a clue. Anyone give some advice that might work. Going over speed bumps its fine. it these little bumps on the road that make it pop. Don't understand it.
Camaro Front End Noise Correction


Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There are NO issues with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:02 PM   #688
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These are different noises from what I can tell. There is a "popping" noise vs. the "loose lumber sound". Just wanted to be clear about that.
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Old 06-03-2017, 10:14 AM   #689
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I hate to bump this old thread, but I'm chasing down the clunking noise myself. I recently replaced the struts w/ Koni orange, tightened everything, then got the rattling noise over rough pavement. I do have the later strut mounts that appear to be in good condition & I've tightened & re-tightened the strut nuts w/ an impact. I going to take the wheels off & re-tighten the sway bar end links. If loose, I'll put some thread lock on them. They were a real bitch to get off.

My question is: Does it make a difference if the struts are full droop or under load when tightening any/all bolts?
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:58 AM   #690
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Originally Posted by km9v View Post
I hate to bump this old thread, but I'm chasing down the clunking noise myself. I recently replaced the struts w/ Koni orange, tightened everything, then got the rattling noise over rough pavement. I do have the later strut mounts that appear to be in good condition & I've tightened & re-tightened the strut nuts w/ an impact. I going to take the wheels off & re-tighten the sway bar end links. If loose, I'll put some thread lock on them. They were a real bitch to get off.

My question is: Does it make a difference if the struts are full droop or under load when tightening any/all bolts?
All suspension parts should be final tightened at normal ride height. Which is why alignment racks raise the whole car by the tires.
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Old 06-03-2017, 07:23 PM   #691
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Well, I got all the bolts re tightened. None were very loose, the swaybar end links were fine. I expected to find something loose, but the most I tightened a bolt was about 1/8 of a turn. Installed an isolation bushing & that seems to have quieted the rattling about 90% I think I can still hear it faintly but everything is impact tight (although, my impact is not the greatest). I have to say, the installation of the sophisticated strut top mount isolation bushing (AKA, the toilet mod) is a success.

I had my doubts, but it worked. It's my daily driver, so I'll drive it for a while & see if it returns. If it does, I'l get a new set strut mounts.
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:31 PM   #692
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What worked is you tightened the strut but.

SMH
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:58 PM   #693
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
What worked is you tightened the strut but.

SMH
Before I tried the advanced isolation bushing system, I did just the tightening down. I drove it around & still had the rattling. Put bushings in, ~90-95% noise reduction.
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Old 06-07-2017, 02:27 AM   #694
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Ha! I know Pete denounces the toilet fix....but it has worked for so many. I cut mine so it only uses the outer most of the ring. Every thing is in place and tight as a drum.
I guess when I eventually update the suspension we'll see what happens. ....untill then, it drives fine and quietly.
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:17 AM   #695
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I think there might be a slight height difference between the OEM & the Koni struts b/c I never had the rattling w/ the OEMs.
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Old 07-04-2017, 03:43 PM   #696
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So,
Can I use a new set of OEM factory end links on my Eibach sway bar? The boots are torn on both my front sway bar end links. They are black, like the stock units. Just getting the clunking sound on the front right hand side when going over uneven pavement and heavy bumps. Any thoughts? I checked the top mount and used an impact wrench to tighten the top bolt.
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Old 07-05-2017, 01:52 PM   #697
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So,
Can I use a new set of OEM factory end links on my Eibach sway bar? The boots are torn on both my front sway bar end links. They are black, like the stock units. Just getting the clunking sound on the front right hand side when going over uneven pavement and heavy bumps. Any thoughts? I checked the top mount and used an impact wrench to tighten the top bolt.
Yes you can use the OEM links as long as the studs are the same size as the mounting holes.
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:29 AM   #698
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