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Old 04-23-2018, 02:21 PM   #29
str8wick3d
 
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I have the MT ET Streets and I just ordered the JDP reservoir and lingenfelter return spring so hopefully after a full flush with fresh dot 4 and the spring I wont have any problems. I know that a aftermarket racing clutch is in the future but this should fix the issues im having with the stock one I hope.
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:33 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by str8wick3d View Post
https://youtu.be/JwfChAc6TXY

Video of run with clutch sticking to the floor.
Yea, that's a lot of slip - I wouldn't expect the clutch to tolerate that much.

I would consider this to be a really good example of how to get an M6 cam only car off the line. It's a good amount of slip, but a fairly quick release.

https://youtu.be/VtnIdFyVSa4
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:24 PM   #31
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Nice video man. I gotta get some more time in. Those fears seem perfect.
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:25 PM   #32
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Gears I mean
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Old 04-28-2018, 08:43 AM   #33
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I decided against going to the track last night, I have some parts coming in that I hope will help me nail this launch down. I have the lingenfelter clutch return spring now and it feels great! I wont have my clutch stick to the floor so that will help. Also it feels much nicer in general compared to stock. Also have the lingenfelter Ctap with the harness to tie into the clutch signal wire. This will go to my 2 msd 2 step. Last thing thats coming in is the JDP clutch reservoir. With all this installed by next weekend I hope to be ripping atleast 1.8 60fts.
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:36 AM   #34
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Can anyone racing with fuse pull tell me if there stabili track and traction control off lights come on? I noticed only my stabili track off is lighting up and maybe that has something to do with my bog?
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Old 04-30-2018, 07:46 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by str8wick3d View Post
I decided against going to the track last night, I have some parts coming in that I hope will help me nail this launch down. I have the lingenfelter clutch return spring now and it feels great! I wont have my clutch stick to the floor so that will help. Also it feels much nicer in general compared to stock. Also have the lingenfelter Ctap with the harness to tie into the clutch signal wire. This will go to my 2 msd 2 step. Last thing thats coming in is the JDP clutch reservoir. With all this installed by next weekend I hope to be ripping atleast 1.8 60fts.
Did you remove the stock "over-center" spring from the clutch? I have mine out - what a nice difference to not have that spring pushing you out of the friction zone all of a sudden as you're releasing the clutch.

I could bring myself to spend $80 on the Lingenfelter return spring - I went to Lowes and picked up a $2.30 generic spring, and it's working just fine. It doesn't pull much, and I don't expect it too, just enough to make sure the pedal travels 100% of the way up to open up the transfer port in the master cylinder. I've never had the pedal stick to the floor - just keep the fluid clean and don't over-heat it too bad, and it should be fine.

Hope to see you nail down some 1.8s or better. I just picked up some 18x11 ZL1 replicas with 305/45/18 NT05Rs on Saturday - hoping that'll swing me down into the 1.7 territory if I can drive the thing. Send prayers for the axles!
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Old 04-30-2018, 09:34 AM   #36
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Did you remove the stock "over-center" spring from the clutch? I have mine out - what a nice difference to not have that spring pushing you out of the friction zone all of a sudden as you're releasing the clutch.

I could bring myself to spend $80 on the Lingenfelter return spring - I went to Lowes and picked up a $2.30 generic spring, and it's working just fine. It doesn't pull much, and I don't expect it too, just enough to make sure the pedal travels 100% of the way up to open up the transfer port in the master cylinder. I've never had the pedal stick to the floor - just keep the fluid clean and don't over-heat it too bad, and it should be fine.

Hope to see you nail down some 1.8s or better. I just picked up some 18x11 ZL1 replicas with 305/45/18 NT05Rs on Saturday - hoping that'll swing me down into the 1.7 territory if I can drive the thing. Send prayers for the axles!
yo..can't remember if u have dunn anythin to ur rear susp...uv'e heard me ad'nauseum about T/A's and either cradle bush inserts or alum....with those tires every component is gonna get stressed to the max....'bfast made it quite awhile on his stock SS's...

I recently saw where the IRS likes to toe in on hit....thinkin 'bout sum BMR lower control arms now...sheesh...more $$$$

sorry for the jack OP....peace
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Old 04-30-2018, 10:21 AM   #37
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First...always do a burn out...not a massive one just enough to get sum heat into them...think golf...consistency is key! I do it in 2nd.

Launch RPM will be dependent on track conditions. Goal is to get sum wheel spin outta the hole...just enough that RPM doesn't drop and bog ya out...

below is a pic from a couple of weekends ago..was tryin out my buddies Hoosiers...
Attachment 930175

16 psi was the final pressure and 6000 RPM was the launch.

this vid was from the same day..lol against a rail...shows my burnout..launch and run...


good luck!
i like the shift light in the vent, do you have a thread on how you did it? thinking of doing the same mod
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:00 PM   #38
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ZL1 reps are on - I think they look real nice! 305/45/18 NT05R will hopefully hook up pretty well. Gotta pull 'em back off and tie back my e-brake cable, but otherwise they clear ok everywhere.

Frank - my rear suspension is all stock with the exception of BMR bushings in the differential - I put those in while I had it out of the car. I am planning on solid cradle bushings for my next step - and then we'll see where things take me. I figure if I don't get too greedy on the launches I should be able to keep the stock axles in one piece. Billy Sharps was telling me when he was down into the 1.5x a stock axle was good for about 15-20 passes. I doubt I'll even get down into the 1.6 range, so hopefully they'll go all season.
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:41 PM   #39
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i like the shift light in the vent, do you have a thread on how you did it? thinking of doing the same mod
There is a thread on C5 that has info...mostly about where to tie in the power...the vent location is nice however it is impossible to make any adjust with takin it out...and being buried so deep was actually makin it harder to see/use when at the strip....so now it's on the dash tight up against the front a pillar...now I need to find a lens cover/dimmer cause my left eye gets blinded on every startup...lol
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