timing chain issue

[gahammerle]

2010 LLT - yesterday I got the P0008. I cleared it and drove another 80 miles or so just fine. I'm sure though that it will come back soon and I will need new timing chains. I have over 175,000 miles now.

I heard a local guy say he paid $3800 to get his replaced. That's about double what I was expecting, so I'm thinking of tackling it myself. Does anyone have a good write-up including part numbers for everything I should get? Torque specs & sequence, special tools needed? I need a write up for dummies. I changed a timing belt on an 87 Charger 25 years ago, but I know the LLT is more complicated, so I need a write-up that doesn't gloss over any steps.

Or if you know of a shop in the SW Ohio/Northern KY/SE Indiana areas that will do it for under $2K, let me know. I'd be doing this in my driveway and it's no fun tackling a job like this in the winter.

[Marklar]

Originally Posted by gahammerle

Or if you know of a shop in the SW Ohio/Northern KY/SE Indiana areas that will do it for under $2K, let me know. I'd be doing this in my driveway and it's no fun tackling a job like this in the winter.

You might have some luck asking the Southwest Ohio Camaro Club Facebook group. I'm near Cincinnati too and I've gotten a few good recommendations from them. They might require an approval to get added to the group, though.

[rtcat600man]

Take a look at page 17 post # 225.......this will provide some info.about the parts.

As for a write-up on the work to be done, try this link.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=450055

Hope this helps too.

[PieNsky]

I've done the job twice on my Camaro. Yup , used a chain kit from rockauto , don't recall which , lasted another 125,000 and this time used a cloyes. I think the new GM is the way to go though based on I haven't heard anyone with the later GM chains having issues.
I watched several times these vids , and I had a manual too that I used for the torque specs.
At around the 8:25 time of the vid , he talks about the alternator bolt you have to remove. I don't think it is the same on our engines. Just see if you can get to the timing cover bolts without having to remove it.
The best way to get the many valve cover bolts in the back is with a 1/4" ratchet with a universal joint and extension . If you have a ratchet that the handle turns like one you can get from Lowes , it makes it a little bit easier.

[PieNsky]

It is very close , but not the same , as our engine. The harmonic balancer is not the same. Ours looks like a wagon wheel. What you are supposed to do is remove the starter and put a tool in there . Well , I have long tube headers and I did something that I would not suggest anyone to do. I put a strap through the balancer and pulled it tight to a part of the Camaro, I forgot what, and ratcheted the strap tight. I was able to break loose the bolt that held it in place. I had to modify the three jaw pulley puller to grab the balancer. What is going on is , the back side of the balancer is beveled and your jaws will slide off. I used a mirror that I saw three flat places. I ground down the fingers on the jaws to fit into those flat spots.
I bought tools that fit the back of the cams that hold them in place.
When you get to start removing the timing chain cover , make a cardboard template first and number each bolt. What I am saying , get a large section of cardboard, draw the timing cover and each bolt location. Do this from the manual where they give each torque setting. When you remove each bolt , place it into the cardboard drawing ( of course you have to cut a slice in the cardboard ) this keeps which bolt goes where when you put it back together. Yeah , you don't want to have a bunch of loose bolts of different lengths and sizes and guessing where they go back. You will get it wrong. I also put the bolt into every piece that I remove as I set it aside.
I would highly, highly, highly, recommend that you do this next step.I bought tools that fit on the end of the cams that hold them in place.
It keeps all the timing correct. You don't have to hold them with a wrench and an adjustable as he does.

[PieNsky]

I also slid a thin blade small screwdriver to remove the electrical connections. Just slid it in to push down on the retainer that is keeping it together.

[PieNsky]

[PieNsky]

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...m+timing+chain

[gahammerle]

Thanks! The cardboard tip is a great idea. I'll probably watch these vids several times.

[PieNsky]

99% certain that these are the correct set numbers that I used to hold the 4 cams in place when you change the chains.
You just rotate the engine, easy with the plugs out , by turning the crank by hand with a breaker bar. When the cams line up to the tool. These fit on the back end of the cams. They go on to them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-...5.c10#viTabs_0

[PieNsky]

Another thing that is different, you need a "button" to go into the harmonic balance. Just get a kit from a parts store
They lend out tools with a deposit..

[gahammerle]

Dealer quoted me 1650 out the door, so I'm taking it there next week. It's too cold to be doing it myself in the driveway.

[TooCool5]

Originally Posted by PieNsky

Another thing that is different, you need a "button" to go into the harmonic balance. Just get a kit from a parts store
They lend out tools with a deposit..

HEY Pie,
What do you mean "button"? For Harmonic Balance, Thought it just pulls off?

[Sinister10]

Originally Posted by gahammerle

Dealer quoted me 1650 out the door, so I'm taking it there next week. It's too cold to be doing it myself in the driveway.

what dealer did you get this quote from? im in Lawrenceburg indiana and need to get the chains replaced in my wifes 08 CTS. the cadiliac dealer qutoed 2800-3700 to do the job.