Help identifying retaining clip on Fuel Line / EVAP for P0443 code - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Phantom20 · 04-18-2016, 03:49 PM

Greetings everyone, I would really appreciate it if any of you could have a hand at trying to identify some parts I don't know if I missplaced (forgot if ever there) and a clip that I broke.

The beginning of the story begins with trying to install a catch can. I didn't realize it at the time, but I snapped a retaining clip on the EVAP line from the solenoid to the throttle body.

That set off a whole chain of events that gave the P0443 code for a Evap solenoid valve circuit error. I think it is caused by a leak during this installation ordeal so I am trying to rectify it now.

I took this photo from another user on this forum and made my own color on it

The blue outline shows the hose/line and its connection at the throttle body (TB) is where the mini clip came off. You can see the sand/skin colored plastic clip in that photo on the right side just after where my blue outline stops.

A picture of a near complete clip is here:

It's missing some of its 'wings' that came off. It only says F6 on it and I can't find anything on it for sale online. I've checked the parts reference guide but it of course won't list this small piece. I've done seareches for Doorman and GM evap retaining clip but no dice.

Next, I also do not remember if I am missing a clip but here is a photo of the central holder for the EVAP line and the Fuel line. (Evap highlighted in blue on left and Fuel on right)

I am not sure if a retaining clip seen to the right on the fuel line is missing on my EVAP line be it that I took it off or if it never needed one. I also searched for this but could not find any info on it.

So overall can anyone identify the two parts I am looking for here being the plastic evap hose clip with F6 and the actual connect line clip that is metal on the last picture?

I'm trying to fix the error code and am at a loss for what I need to do but this is the first step I think.

Thank you

UPDATE Solution:

For those comming into this thread in the future. I'll provide an update so you may fix your problem as well. My original post was correct but had me idiotically trying to outsmart my car and 'think' ahead. The original Check Engine Light error codes I got were:

P0030: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0050: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0443: Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit

I thought it was weird that the O2 sensor circuits also tripped but thought nothing of it. The EVAP stood out from them so I went there and thus this thread got started where I tried to 'reduce' the problem to an isolated spot. Well that shot me in the foot. The extra error codes that kept comming back even after CEL deletes from my scanner should have clued me into these being tripped because of a common source point. That source being a blown #7 10A fuse in the engine compartment box.

This fuse is noted as the "#7 Pre-Catalytic Converter O2 Sensor". JerTM also confirmed that this fuse also has the EVAP solenoid circuit tied into it which is why that code came up.

The simple solution thus was to replace the 10A mini fuse with another one. However this fuse shorted because of something that happened so I personally went out and got some higher-temp Vinyl Electrical Tape (3M Super88 Vinyl Electrical Tape Pro Grade for $4 specifically) and patched up any areas on the harness from the pre-cat O2 sensor leading up to my engine fuse-box. The associates I spoke with said that for its location, even regular electrical tape would be 'fine' with the heat produced but that the extra $2 for the 3M high-temp tape would be a safer bet. I would recommend using some around the engine and its harness to patch up any possible shorts.

This won't work if you need to patch up a short near the exhaust manifold or right next to the catalytic converter though. You need some serious fixes/replacements/special thermal tape there.

Hopefully anyone down the road with similar problems can get it fixed as well.

JerTM · 04-18-2016, 05:55 PM

The circuit code couldn't be caused by the broken retaining clip. Look at the connector or wiring if you don't find a damaged or internally broken wire, the solenoid is suspect. you will need to replace the evap line for the broken clip (I have yet to find a replacement clip for it)

There will be no metal retainer on the evap line next to the fuel line as it is not under pressure nor has fuel in it.

Phantom20 · 04-18-2016, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerTM

The circuit code couldn't be caused by the broken retaining clip. Look at the connector or wiring if you don't find a damaged or internally broken wire, the solenoid is suspect. you will need to replace the evap line for the broken clip (I have yet to find a replacement clip for it)

There will be no metal retainer on the evap line next to the fuel line as it is not under pressure nor has fuel in it.

Good point. I did not think it was the EVAP line also but did it just to make sure. Even without the clip, thanks to the solenoid's tight position, the EVAP line to the throttle body barely budges past where the clip would have secured it.

When you say the solenoid, you are referring to the EVAP canister module listed here?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-214-...pV3pn7&vxp=mtr

I know there is one below the car and one in the fuel tank making it a PITA to change or diagnose but if the part above is correct. I'll go ahead and replace it after another day of checking some wiring as the cost is not very high.

I don't believe this requires me to not drive the car but to rather not go 'hard' on it. I mainly need it for small trips (less than 10mins a day) and personally do not think the EVAP canister is a huge deal as it is mainly an ECO emissions thing right?

Thanks again

Phantom20 · 04-18-2016, 07:53 PM

I think I am getting closer to issue

I just read these two short threads with posts
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ighlight=p0443 (main OP comments)

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ighlight=p0443 (comment #7)

and I am getting the same thing where it isn't just the P0443 but also getting O2 sensor codes and for them it seems there was a wiring harness grounding issue and needed a fuse replacement.

I know how to replace the fuses but I also want to rectify the wiring harness.

First off, in post #7
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...95&postcount=7

He mentions the O2 extensions touching the header? Where would this be on the car? Would it be underneath the car where the heated O2 sensors are close to the catalytic converter?

Next, how would one buy new harness headers or fix a grounding short? They dont' seem to be able to pull out easy and are all jumbuled together in cable piping.

Thanks again everyone.

JerTM · 04-18-2016, 07:57 PM

Yes, the P0443 is for the purge solenoid on the engine, it's on the passenger side of that pipe you have highlighted. The other is a canister vent solenoid and it's under the car and you pretty much want a hoist to replace that one.

JerTM · 04-18-2016, 07:59 PM

What DTCs are set?

Phantom20 · 04-18-2016, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerTM

Yes, the P0443 is for the purge solenoid on the engine, it's on the passenger side of that pipe you have highlighted. The other is a canister vent solenoid and it's under the car and you pretty much want a hoist to replace that one.

Ok thank you

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerTM

What DTCs are set?

These are the following:

P0030: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0050: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0443: Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit

I just looked up what Bank means so does this mean Bank 1 and Bank 2 are the two cylinders closest to me as I open the hood?

A fuse, like the links I found, is probably blown but I'm mostly not sure how one would 'fix' a grounding or harness fault on these new vehicles as the harness is like a onesie.

Update:
Just checked under the hood. Fuse #7 for O2 Pre-Cat was indeed blown. I'll have it replaced tomorrow. Still gotta find a solution to not having any more fuse popping shorts though. Do you know if this fuse would affect the Evap Canister?

JerTM · 04-18-2016, 09:29 PM

I will check tomorrow at work, but I am sure you have a short, so in the meantime start looking at your upstream O2 harness ( the O2 that is before the catalytic converters, and closest to the engine) and follow it through its various ways back to the ECM. You'll likely find a section that has rubbed through on a metal part causing your short.

JerTM · 04-19-2016, 09:13 AM

The front O2's and the evap purge solenoid share a fuse. It being open means there is a short in the wire or components. Start chasing the wire that is pink with a black tracer until you find where it's grounding out. If you do not find anywhere that wire is grounding out then disconnect both upstream O2 sensors and the purge solenoid and put a new fuse in. Plug each component back in one at a time, when the fuse opens then you know which component is bad. I would start at the easies component to see and chase the wiring, if other cars have had the same problem it's a good idea to look there as well.

Phantom20 · 04-19-2016, 10:18 AM

JerTM

Thank you for helping find these information! I will attempt this right now and try repairing any exposed sections with electrical tape and buying a few extra fuses.

Do you know/think the sensors on the top of every cylinder head (so 8 total) could affect this? I had to touch those a bit to get my catch can in place but it is hard to see any exposed wiring of any sorts from me at the moment from those.

JerTM · 04-19-2016, 10:52 AM

I think the 8 "sensors" you're talking about are the ignition coils. They wouldn't be causing this concern. It's a shorted wire somewhere along the pink/black wire.

Phantom20 · 04-19-2016, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerTM

I think the 8 "sensors" you're talking about are the ignition coils. They wouldn't be causing this concern. It's a shorted wire somewhere along the pink/black wire.

Nice catch and you are right on that.

I went and found the two upstream pre-cat O2 Sensors today and tried following it.

I don't have a trained eye but besides some worn out areas, I don't know if I could 'easilly' see any obvious shorted wires.

This picture shows the driver side (Brake Booster visible in upper right corner of photo) with the O2 sensor and cable highlighted in blue.

The picture below shows the passenger side and shows the O2 sensor there and the harness leading up to just before the fusebox and ECM

The harness is VERY tight. I can barely get a finger around it or to try to pull it and 'see' anything

At this point, I have gone to my local Advance Auto Parts and purchased some higher quality 3M Super88 Vinyl Electrical Tape. It is noted for being higher temp withstanding than typical electrical tape so I went with it. I asked the guys in the shop if I should do any heat wrap or any other electrically isolating material to help prevent any shorts and they said that for my problem, this was the best bet.

(I currently have the $1 for two-pack no-name super thin Electrical Tape as a tempo wrap. But I went to Walmart today and opted for this $3.98 3M Pro Grade one. It's technically $3 more expensive on display price but is thicker and longer in length so overall, it's really only about a 2x price premium when you consider the weight of the products which is not bad going from no-name dumpster bin to near best Electrical tape you can find in a Walmart)

I currently have any ruffed up areas of the harness patched up with the regular cheap vinyl Electric tape (which they said was fine as well). But I'll be taking that off tomorrow and replacing it with the better type.

One of the more ruffed up areas of the harness were such that the actual harness and any wrappings were gone leaving the colored wires inside exposed. Those were right next to the air intake's EVAP line (as well as the EVAP solenoid and the coilover plugs). During a recent catch-can install, I added a metal clamp ring like this one:

To it. I think something here may have temp shorted with a wire on the exposed harness and thus caused my problems.

The temporary electrical tape and fuse replacement have so far fixed all problems. In the past, even after erasing the CEL code from the car, it would come back after a single restart. Now, they do not show up anymore with the new fuse and temp tape.

Thank you again! I appreciate it. I'll edit and change my original post a bit so future people can have an easy solution.

JerTM · 04-19-2016, 09:50 PM

You've done a good temporary fix and verified it is a wire rubbed through. I would suggest you find exactly where the wire insulation has been damaged and repair the wire and use heat shrink tubing to cover the repair. If you just leave the tape on it will eventually get water into the copper of the wire and corrode until the wire breaks and you'll have to do all over again. But good job on doing it yourself, is always satisfying fixing something rather than paying someone else to.

Phantom20 · 04-19-2016, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerTM

You've done a good temporary fix and verified it is a wire rubbed through. I would suggest you find exactly where the wire insulation has been damaged and repair the wire and use heat shrink tubing to cover the repair. If you just leave the tape on it will eventually get water into the copper of the wire and corrode until the wire breaks and you'll have to do all over again. But good job on doing it yourself, is always satisfying fixing something rather than paying someone else to.

You are right! Always a good feeling. While you are still hear, I'd like to see if I may bother you on one more thing.

I tried taking best a picture as I can but the angle wouldn't let me do any better.

This photo was taken from the front of the engine towards the passenger side. I've outlined the general routing (and re-combination of the harness into a Y shape) in blue and some pre-mounted ring clips in red.

I don't know what is 'stock' or normal but the areas in red I marked off have the harness stripped off. From the photo, you may be able to see that just before the red outline, the harness gets thinner. Well before I did my temporary fix, it was essentially just the 'inner' colored wire right there. Which would now be of course right next to the engine block and metal clamp clip in terms of possible shorting. Here's a closeup of the above image hopefully showing better how the harness thins off. You can see my temporary electrical tape bandage slightly.

If this is definately not stock, as in the 2010 Camaro had the harness continue even through that clamp without it being cut in between, then that is most likely an area of potential short. I have it cased in the electrical tape now and will secure it in the future.

Any suggestions for a more permanent solution besides electrical tape? Maybe get some outer pipe housing to re-wrap around that red outlined clamp area?

Thanks again!

04-18-2016, 03:49 PM	#1
Phantom20 Righty Tighty Lefty Loosy Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: VA Posts: 35	Help identifying retaining clip on Fuel Line / EVAP for P0443 code Greetings everyone, I would really appreciate it if any of you could have a hand at trying to identify some parts I don't know if I missplaced (forgot if ever there) and a clip that I broke. The beginning of the story begins with trying to install a catch can. I didn't realize it at the time, but I snapped a retaining clip on the EVAP line from the solenoid to the throttle body. That set off a whole chain of events that gave the P0443 code for a Evap solenoid valve circuit error. I think it is caused by a leak during this installation ordeal so I am trying to rectify it now. I took this photo from another user on this forum and made my own color on it The blue outline shows the hose/line and its connection at the throttle body (TB) is where the mini clip came off. You can see the sand/skin colored plastic clip in that photo on the right side just after where my blue outline stops. A picture of a near complete clip is here: It's missing some of its 'wings' that came off. It only says F6 on it and I can't find anything on it for sale online. I've checked the parts reference guide but it of course won't list this small piece. I've done seareches for Doorman and GM evap retaining clip but no dice. Next, I also do not remember if I am missing a clip but here is a photo of the central holder for the EVAP line and the Fuel line. (Evap highlighted in blue on left and Fuel on right) I am not sure if a retaining clip seen to the right on the fuel line is missing on my EVAP line be it that I took it off or if it never needed one. I also searched for this but could not find any info on it. So overall can anyone identify the two parts I am looking for here being the plastic evap hose clip with F6 and the actual connect line clip that is metal on the last picture? I'm trying to fix the error code and am at a loss for what I need to do but this is the first step I think. Thank you UPDATE Solution: For those comming into this thread in the future. I'll provide an update so you may fix your problem as well. My original post was correct but had me idiotically trying to outsmart my car and 'think' ahead. The original Check Engine Light error codes I got were: P0030: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0050: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0443: Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit I thought it was weird that the O2 sensor circuits also tripped but thought nothing of it. The EVAP stood out from them so I went there and thus this thread got started where I tried to 'reduce' the problem to an isolated spot. Well that shot me in the foot. The extra error codes that kept comming back even after CEL deletes from my scanner should have clued me into these being tripped because of a common source point. That source being a blown #7 10A fuse in the engine compartment box. This fuse is noted as the "#7 Pre-Catalytic Converter O2 Sensor". JerTM also confirmed that this fuse also has the EVAP solenoid circuit tied into it which is why that code came up. The simple solution thus was to replace the 10A mini fuse with another one. However this fuse shorted because of something that happened so I personally went out and got some higher-temp Vinyl Electrical Tape (3M Super88 Vinyl Electrical Tape Pro Grade for $4 specifically) and patched up any areas on the harness from the pre-cat O2 sensor leading up to my engine fuse-box. The associates I spoke with said that for its location, even regular electrical tape would be 'fine' with the heat produced but that the extra $2 for the 3M high-temp tape would be a safer bet. I would recommend using some around the engine and its harness to patch up any possible shorts. This won't work if you need to patch up a short near the exhaust manifold or right next to the catalytic converter though. You need some serious fixes/replacements/special thermal tape there. Hopefully anyone down the road with similar problems can get it fixed as well. Last edited by Phantom20; 04-19-2016 at 10:02 PM.

04-18-2016, 05:55 PM	#2
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	The circuit code couldn't be caused by the broken retaining clip. Look at the connector or wiring if you don't find a damaged or internally broken wire, the solenoid is suspect. you will need to replace the evap line for the broken clip (I have yet to find a replacement clip for it) There will be no metal retainer on the evap line next to the fuel line as it is not under pressure nor has fuel in it.

04-18-2016, 07:53 PM	#4
Phantom20 Righty Tighty Lefty Loosy Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: VA Posts: 35	I think I am getting closer to issue I just read these two short threads with posts http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ighlight=p0443 (main OP comments) http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ighlight=p0443 (comment #7) and I am getting the same thing where it isn't just the P0443 but also getting O2 sensor codes and for them it seems there was a wiring harness grounding issue and needed a fuse replacement. I know how to replace the fuses but I also want to rectify the wiring harness. First off, in post #7 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...95&postcount=7 He mentions the O2 extensions touching the header? Where would this be on the car? Would it be underneath the car where the heated O2 sensors are close to the catalytic converter? Next, how would one buy new harness headers or fix a grounding short? They dont' seem to be able to pull out easy and are all jumbuled together in cable piping. Thanks again everyone.

04-18-2016, 07:57 PM	#5
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	Yes, the P0443 is for the purge solenoid on the engine, it's on the passenger side of that pipe you have highlighted. The other is a canister vent solenoid and it's under the car and you pretty much want a hoist to replace that one.

04-18-2016, 07:59 PM	#6
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	What DTCs are set?

04-18-2016, 09:29 PM	#8
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	I will check tomorrow at work, but I am sure you have a short, so in the meantime start looking at your upstream O2 harness ( the O2 that is before the catalytic converters, and closest to the engine) and follow it through its various ways back to the ECM. You'll likely find a section that has rubbed through on a metal part causing your short.

04-19-2016, 09:13 AM	#9
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	The front O2's and the evap purge solenoid share a fuse. It being open means there is a short in the wire or components. Start chasing the wire that is pink with a black tracer until you find where it's grounding out. If you do not find anywhere that wire is grounding out then disconnect both upstream O2 sensors and the purge solenoid and put a new fuse in. Plug each component back in one at a time, when the fuse opens then you know which component is bad. I would start at the easies component to see and chase the wiring, if other cars have had the same problem it's a good idea to look there as well.

04-19-2016, 10:18 AM	#10
Phantom20 Righty Tighty Lefty Loosy Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: VA Posts: 35	JerTM Thank you for helping find these information! I will attempt this right now and try repairing any exposed sections with electrical tape and buying a few extra fuses. Do you know/think the sensors on the top of every cylinder head (so 8 total) could affect this? I had to touch those a bit to get my catch can in place but it is hard to see any exposed wiring of any sorts from me at the moment from those.

04-19-2016, 10:52 AM	#11
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	I think the 8 "sensors" you're talking about are the ignition coils. They wouldn't be causing this concern. It's a shorted wire somewhere along the pink/black wire.

04-19-2016, 09:50 PM	#13
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	You've done a good temporary fix and verified it is a wire rubbed through. I would suggest you find exactly where the wire insulation has been damaged and repair the wire and use heat shrink tubing to cover the repair. If you just leave the tape on it will eventually get water into the copper of the wire and corrode until the wire breaks and you'll have to do all over again. But good job on doing it yourself, is always satisfying fixing something rather than paying someone else to.