2020 ZL1 Dipstick Smells like Gasoline

Slurpee · 09-28-2020, 03:23 PM

Bought my 2020 ZL1 in July. Did the 500 mile oil change, 1500 mile oil change and rear diff change. Currently 2100 miles on the car.

Checked my fluids the other day and decided to smell the dipstick. Smelled like gasoline. Wasn't a strong or weak smell, but definitely gasoline. Only put 93 octane in the car (vast majority of it Shell). Bringing it into the dealer. Anyone else experience this?

slimjim2525 · 09-28-2020, 03:52 PM

Do an oil change and send the oil for analysis.

SFV1LE · 09-28-2020, 03:54 PM

As long as you broke it in right by always warming up oil before going over 3k and giving it some boost, but not too much, during break-in it should be fine.

How is your oil consumption? Are you seeing the oil volume increase due to fuel vs. decrease from some consumption?

LT4Greg · 09-28-2020, 04:42 PM

I really don’t think you have any problems with your ZL1!

collinms · 09-28-2020, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

I really don’t think you have any problems with your ZL1!

I agree. Just go enjoy the car man.

Rayvan · 09-28-2020, 04:48 PM

Lots of short trips can cause this. Take it for a long drive before you waste time taking it to a dealer, cause that what they will tell you.

If your oil level in increasing, that's bad. Keep an eye on that for a while, so if you do end up taking it in, that will be good data for you to tell them.

Elite Engineering · 09-28-2020, 04:51 PM

This is common with all GDI engines. And one of the primary causes of premature wear and failure. How does this occur?

Well unlike the Port Injection engines of the past, where fuel injectors introduced the fuel into the intake port at 45-55 PSI, and on the intake stroke of the piston, GDI engines introduce the fuel directly into the combustion chamber, and milliseconds before TDC when compression and cylinder pressures are close to the greatest (prior to combustion) and it is at 1,000-3,000 PSI to be able to overcome these pressures. This results in between 8 and 12 times the amount of fuel pushed past the piston rings. When this occurs not only is much of the protective oil film washed from the cylinder walls, but it also severely dilutes the engine oil, that anyone that has followed the engine failures when pushed such as track days, etc. with the far too thin of viscosity to begin with (must be specified to meet CAFE fuel economy standards), and you have a recipe for shorter life. A reason the several changes in what viscosity oil should be used for track events per GM.

What can be done to avoid this? Well for years we have been sharing this technical info with members and advised to run an oil that will help deal with this excessive fuel dilution such as Amsoil 5w50 or similar Mobil1 viscosity. But full time. GM has to be careful not to run afoul of regulators by disclosing this, but you the owners sure don't that wish to protect their engines.

GDI engines are an entire different engine with unique issues and most automatically assume what they did for their old port injection engine is sufficient for these new generation of engines, and that is far from the truth.

And a reason why we have offered the most effective and advanced air/oil separating crankcase evacuation systems on the market, design specifically for these engines.

For those that have not seen our oil analysis example (and the fact this example is a twin turbo GDI engine by Ford only means it is subject to even more of these assaults' on longevity. It is making over 20# of boost and of course we only release independent results by techs that wish to verify and test our claims such as this one. Pay special attention to the lab techs comments. This is at over 13,000 miles on the SAME oil. He sends in oil samples every 5k or so miles to track:

How does the Elite E2-X family accomplish this? Well that's part of what sets these systems apart from other designs. Forst, look at any other design of "catchcans". They use the vacuum present in the intake manifold for the suction needed to evacuate these contaminants from the crankcase. That works well when at idle, light cruise, or deceleration, but anytime you accelerate or drive hard, usable intake manifold vacuum drops below usable levels due to cam lobe overlap created reversion pulses. This is the intake valves are starting to open before the exhaust valves are completely closed. This helps power by the scavenging effect of the outgoing spent gasses, but also cancels the vacuum present. So what occurs during these events? Crankcase evacuation stops and the unburnt fuel and other combustion byproducts settle and mix with the engine oil. And once mixed, most is there to stay. Today's full synthetics don't so much "wear out" as they simply can only absorb so much in the way of contaminants before they become "condemned" and need to be changed. This is one of the features setting us apart from the crowd. We use a second evacuation suction source and a series of checkvalves so no matter what the mode of operation, the crankcase is always under evacuation (sucking out these substances) before they can settle. The primary valve uses the intake manifold vacuum until that drops and the primary valve closes. The secondary valve will open and use the vacuum generated by the Venturi Effect and take over evacuation until you release the throttle and IM vacuum returns, and they switch back.

This combined with the no equal 95% effectiveness VS 15-30% of 99% (of all other designs) creates a true air/oil separating crankcase evacuation system that extends life, extends oil life, and greatly reduces the wear and failures.

Questions? Just ask. A technical discussion in order to help all to understand all aspects we feel is important for those that want to protect their investment and intend to keep it and enjoy for years to come. We also realize a certain percentage buy their cars for a year or two of use and do not wish to be bothered with more than putting in fuel, and we respect that as well.

And as always, before choosing a model simply email our Engineering and Tech Support Team direct at: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com and were there to assist. Forced induction or NA, and up to 1000 HP plus.

Slurpee · 09-28-2020, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

As long as you broke it in right by always warming up oil before going over 3k and giving it some boost, but not too much, during break-in it should be fine.

How is your oil consumption? Are you seeing the oil volume increase due to fuel vs. decrease from some consumption?

Yeah I always let the fluids warm up before I accelerate hard.

Oil before 1500 mile oil change was half way at the dipstick before a cold start. Now, it’s very close to the full on the dipstick on cold start and after reaching temperature, but I’m only ~500 miles on this oil change.

Slurpee · 09-28-2020, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimjim2525

Do an oil change and send the oil for analysis.

Yeah bringing it in tomorrow.

Slurpee · 09-28-2020, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rayvan

Lots of short trips can cause this. Take it for a long drive before you waste time taking it to a dealer, cause that what they will tell you.

If your oil level in increasing, that's bad. Keep an eye on that for a while, so if you do end up taking it in, that will be good data for you to tell them.

Shortest trips I take are 12 miles at a time. Normal trips are 30+ miles. I took it on a 30+ mile trip after I noticed it. Smell seemed stronger, but not sure if it’s my paranoia. Oil level before the 1500 mile oil change was half way on the dipstick. When I first noticed it, oil level was close to full on a cold engine (sitting 24 hours). After that trip 30+ mile trip, I checked the levels after it came to temperature, and it was also very close to full. I can’t tell if it’s past the cross-stitch pattern.
Taking it in tomorrow, the dealer has a ZL1 / ZR1 specialist, so hopefully he has enough info.

Slurpee · 09-28-2020, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

I really don’t think you have any problems with your ZL1!

Just because it’s GDI? Smelled the oil on our 3 other cars and didn’t smell like gas at all.

Revalot · 09-28-2020, 08:16 PM

So besides your catch can we need to run 5W-50 oil ?

LT4Greg · 09-28-2020, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Just because it’s GDI? Smelled the oil on our 3 other cars and didn’t smell like gas at all.

I said nothing about GDI! You do what you think is best for your ZL1!

SFV1LE · 09-28-2020, 09:05 PM

I didn't know I should be smelling the dipstick :-) I don't think I could tell the difference between oil and gas with a small amount on the end of the dipstick.

Maybe smell it at the oil fill port after warmup, if there's significant fuel in there you would get a good whiff vapor coming off the hot valvetrain.

09-28-2020, 03:23 PM	#1
Slurpee Drives: 2020 ZL1 A10; Shadow Gray Metallic Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Chicago Posts: 142	2020 ZL1 Dipstick Smells like Gasoline Bought my 2020 ZL1 in July. Did the 500 mile oil change, 1500 mile oil change and rear diff change. Currently 2100 miles on the car. Checked my fluids the other day and decided to smell the dipstick. Smelled like gasoline. Wasn't a strong or weak smell, but definitely gasoline. Only put 93 octane in the car (vast majority of it Shell). Bringing it into the dealer. Anyone else experience this?

09-28-2020, 03:52 PM	#2
slimjim2525 Drives: 2019 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Connecticut Posts: 135	Do an oil change and send the oil for analysis. __________________ 2019 Camaro 2SS, Shadow Grey

09-28-2020, 04:42 PM	#4
LT4Greg Drives: 2017 Camaro ZL1 Coupe Join Date: May 2016 Location: Georgia Posts: 5,813	I really don’t think you have any problems with your ZL1! __________________ ZL1 Coupe, PDR, Exposed carbon fiber hood insert, My Link with Nav, M6 6 speed and Silver Ice Metallic. Mods done: ceramic window tint, GM Accessories Camaro floor mats and Roto-Fab CAI.

09-28-2020, 03:54 PM	#3
SFV1LE Drives: 2018 Hyper Blue ZL1 1LE Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: CA Posts: 1,360	As long as you broke it in right by always warming up oil before going over 3k and giving it some boost, but not too much, during break-in it should be fine. How is your oil consumption? Are you seeing the oil volume increase due to fuel vs. decrease from some consumption?

09-28-2020, 04:48 PM	#6
Rayvan Rayvan Drives: 2018 1SS1LE, Silver Ice Metallic Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 275	Lots of short trips can cause this. Take it for a long drive before you waste time taking it to a dealer, cause that what they will tell you. If your oil level in increasing, that's bad. Keep an eye on that for a while, so if you do end up taking it in, that will be good data for you to tell them.

09-28-2020, 04:51 PM	#7
Elite Engineering Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 1,382	This is common with all GDI engines. And one of the primary causes of premature wear and failure. How does this occur? Well unlike the Port Injection engines of the past, where fuel injectors introduced the fuel into the intake port at 45-55 PSI, and on the intake stroke of the piston, GDI engines introduce the fuel directly into the combustion chamber, and milliseconds before TDC when compression and cylinder pressures are close to the greatest (prior to combustion) and it is at 1,000-3,000 PSI to be able to overcome these pressures. This results in between 8 and 12 times the amount of fuel pushed past the piston rings. When this occurs not only is much of the protective oil film washed from the cylinder walls, but it also severely dilutes the engine oil, that anyone that has followed the engine failures when pushed such as track days, etc. with the far too thin of viscosity to begin with (must be specified to meet CAFE fuel economy standards), and you have a recipe for shorter life. A reason the several changes in what viscosity oil should be used for track events per GM. What can be done to avoid this? Well for years we have been sharing this technical info with members and advised to run an oil that will help deal with this excessive fuel dilution such as Amsoil 5w50 or similar Mobil1 viscosity. But full time. GM has to be careful not to run afoul of regulators by disclosing this, but you the owners sure don't that wish to protect their engines. GDI engines are an entire different engine with unique issues and most automatically assume what they did for their old port injection engine is sufficient for these new generation of engines, and that is far from the truth. And a reason why we have offered the most effective and advanced air/oil separating crankcase evacuation systems on the market, design specifically for these engines. For those that have not seen our oil analysis example (and the fact this example is a twin turbo GDI engine by Ford only means it is subject to even more of these assaults' on longevity. It is making over 20# of boost and of course we only release independent results by techs that wish to verify and test our claims such as this one. Pay special attention to the lab techs comments. This is at over 13,000 miles on the SAME oil. He sends in oil samples every 5k or so miles to track: How does the Elite E2-X family accomplish this? Well that's part of what sets these systems apart from other designs. Forst, look at any other design of "catchcans". They use the vacuum present in the intake manifold for the suction needed to evacuate these contaminants from the crankcase. That works well when at idle, light cruise, or deceleration, but anytime you accelerate or drive hard, usable intake manifold vacuum drops below usable levels due to cam lobe overlap created reversion pulses. This is the intake valves are starting to open before the exhaust valves are completely closed. This helps power by the scavenging effect of the outgoing spent gasses, but also cancels the vacuum present. So what occurs during these events? Crankcase evacuation stops and the unburnt fuel and other combustion byproducts settle and mix with the engine oil. And once mixed, most is there to stay. Today's full synthetics don't so much "wear out" as they simply can only absorb so much in the way of contaminants before they become "condemned" and need to be changed. This is one of the features setting us apart from the crowd. We use a second evacuation suction source and a series of checkvalves so no matter what the mode of operation, the crankcase is always under evacuation (sucking out these substances) before they can settle. The primary valve uses the intake manifold vacuum until that drops and the primary valve closes. The secondary valve will open and use the vacuum generated by the Venturi Effect and take over evacuation until you release the throttle and IM vacuum returns, and they switch back. This combined with the no equal 95% effectiveness VS 15-30% of 99% (of all other designs) creates a true air/oil separating crankcase evacuation system that extends life, extends oil life, and greatly reduces the wear and failures. Questions? Just ask. A technical discussion in order to help all to understand all aspects we feel is important for those that want to protect their investment and intend to keep it and enjoy for years to come. We also realize a certain percentage buy their cars for a year or two of use and do not wish to be bothered with more than putting in fuel, and we respect that as well. And as always, before choosing a model simply email our Engineering and Tech Support Team direct at: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com and were there to assist. Forced induction or NA, and up to 1000 HP plus.

09-28-2020, 08:16 PM	#12
Revalot Drives: ZL1/1LE parts added Join Date: May 2018 Location: Somewhere around Texas pines tress and smooth asphalt Posts: 609	So besides your catch can we need to run 5W-50 oil ?

09-28-2020, 09:05 PM	#14
SFV1LE Drives: 2018 Hyper Blue ZL1 1LE Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: CA Posts: 1,360	I didn't know I should be smelling the dipstick :-) I don't think I could tell the difference between oil and gas with a small amount on the end of the dipstick. Maybe smell it at the oil fill port after warmup, if there's significant fuel in there you would get a good whiff vapor coming off the hot valvetrain.

User Name		Remember Me?
Password