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Old 02-17-2012, 08:23 PM   #71
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I had a feeling that was the case. I also talked to an ASE cert friend of mine at work and he said the same thing.... Whenever I wake up ill be attempting to get this going. I can only find one jack stand But I should be able to do it....
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:29 PM   #72
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:28 AM   #73
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A couple of years ago I installed a full kooks long tube and 3" pipe system and soon found the sectional system would not remain in position very long before it would settle and make contact with the tunnel brace. Subsequently I added a Hotchkis chassis max with the spacer kit that corrected the problem for a while. Eventually the 3" pipes settled enough to again start making contact with tunnel brace section of the chassis max. I concluded the only way the sectional exhaust sections would remain in the desired postion would be to tack weld the sections. I wanted the exhaust system to remain sectional and able to be removed in pieces so I did the following. I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to fit the size of the tunnel brace. I cut strips of 2" header wrap that I wrapped around the plywood and affixed by stapling the underside. I installed the header wrapped plywood shim on the top side of the tunnel brace and affixed it with tie wrap. It does the job nicely and allows me to keep the exhaust system removeable in sections. If you don't care that the exhaust pipes remain sectional, then just raise the pipes up about an inch above the tunnel brace and tack weld them in position.
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:05 AM   #74
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Ok here's an update... I got everything on its all bolted up and ready to go.
Sorry for the quality on some... It was taken with my phone... Any questions?
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:38 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by 2SSCAMARO View Post
A couple of years ago I installed a full kooks long tube and 3" pipe system and soon found the sectional system would not remain in position very long before it would settle and make contact with the tunnel brace. Subsequently I added a Hotchkis chassis max with the spacer kit that corrected the problem for a while. Eventually the 3" pipes settled enough to again start making contact with tunnel brace section of the chassis max. I concluded the only way the sectional exhaust sections would remain in the desired postion would be to tack weld the sections. I wanted the exhaust system to remain sectional and able to be removed in pieces so I did the following. I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to fit the size of the tunnel brace. I cut strips of 2" header wrap that I wrapped around the plywood and affixed by stapling the underside. I installed the header wrapped plywood shim on the top side of the tunnel brace and affixed it with tie wrap. It does the job nicely and allows me to keep the exhaust system removeable in sections. If you don't care that the exhaust pipes remain sectional, then just raise the pipes up about an inch above the tunnel brace and tack weld them in position.
That's some really good info! Thanks for chiming in!
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:15 PM   #76
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Good info from both of you guys.

Technically the plywood is a non-compliant fix because it is a combustible within a few inches of a surface temp above 160F. According to the gas code here in Canada . I wouldn't be too concerned though. Especially since its wrapped! Good idea.

Sinister, thanks for doing that. Does your infrared gauge detect the max surface temperature of the exhaust or potentially just a layer of air around it? I've never used one. I'm just surprised the temps are so low. I still imagine red lining the engine will cause a large spike in the temps there that could melt the tape.

I guess the worst thing that can happen at this point is you check the tape after driving the car for awhile and find that its partially melted. Not likely going to start a fire. That tape probably doesn't burn anyway.
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:42 PM   #77
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Good info from both of you guys.

Technically the plywood is a non-compliant fix because it is a combustible within a few inches of a surface temp above 160F. According to the gas code here in Canada . I wouldn't be too concerned though. Especially since its wrapped! Good idea.

Sinister, thanks for doing that. Does your infrared gauge detect the max surface temperature of the exhaust or potentially just a layer of air around it? I've never used one. I'm just surprised the temps are so low. I still imagine red lining the engine will cause a large spike in the temps there that could melt the tape.

I guess the worst thing that can happen at this point is you check the tape after driving the car for awhile and find that its partially melted. Not likely going to start a fire. That tape probably doesn't burn anyway.
Actually I have no idea what method it uses. I'm guessing it takes surface temp or air temp. I did do a bit of spirited driving around town and didn't notice any burnt silicon smells... I think there is slightly more than a 1/4 of air gap btwn the tape and the pipes. I think that will help it. But yes... I would not be surprised to see that it did melt a bit.
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:54 PM   #78
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I wonder if I could just use the F1 tape and the header wrap on the brace itself??? use the tape to hold the wrap???

Mine isn't rattling any more but...
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:57 PM   #79
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I wonder if I could just use the F1 tape and the header wrap on the brace itself??? use the tape to hold the wrap???

Mine isn't rattling any more but...
You could... I'm sure every little bit helps.... Certainly wont hurt....
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:28 PM   #80
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good post
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